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HI All,
Should have my head examined but am helping a friend fix up his triumph daytona 1200 96 model. It seems over the years lots of things are not standard anymore.

Caveat here, I know zip about triumphs do have the shop manual and clymer manual.

Pulling the gas tank to change out spark plugs, I removed the vacuum line and two pipes going into the fuel petcock valve. The manual mentions to remove tank drain pipes as well. I see two metal tubes out the bottom of the tank, no hoses there, assume their should be a rubber hose attached (to one or both? How long should this hose be?)

Also on either side of the top central spine of the chassis just above the carbs, I note to gold colored small cylindrical objects that have electrical plugs hooked to them. These appear to be part of the vacuum system for the carbs. They have a black hard plastic tube sticking out of each one of the cylinders, should any hoses be attached to these?

I looked at the bike bandit schematics and couldn't see how it goes.

Thanks for those who take pity and might help!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I did find in the manual after posting here, that the two vacuum ports are supposed to be open to air,

now how bout drain pipes off the tank, one, two or none?
Chris
 

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Zvezdah,

Below I have copied and pasted a post that I made last June for someone who was having ignition coil problems. Since this involves removal of the tank, this procedure applies to what you are doing.
I have a '99, but should be the same. There is one tank vent. The other hoses are to the petcock and then there is the low fuel warning connection (a wire on the lower right side of the tank).

As for the "gold colored small cylindrical objects", I do not have such. I think these are the ignition coils (mine are black and rather rectangular in shape). There should be two of them attached to the central spine, and they have friction fit wires attached to them. Maybe your shop manual will show this. I use the Haynes 2162 manual "91 to '99, and this is shown in section 5.2

I now reproduce my former post:

I just replaced the two coils on my 1999 Daytona 1200SE two days ago with Nology coils and now run great. I can't recco the Triumph one's as the "old" coils were installed just two years and 3,500 miles ago. Plus the Nology coils are $75 each versus $130 for Triumph. Maybe Florida heat has an impact on their life too. Here is a link to Nology:
http://www.nology.com/profire.html

My symptoms were similar. Would be running fine and then suddenly it was like I was on just two cylinders (which I was!). Then full power would come back suddenly. The hotter the engine the worse the problem was. Really disconcerting and I would recco you not overtake until fixed.

The Nology coils are plug and play. Really simple. However, its a little work to get to them. You need to remove the tail light, then the side moldings and then the tank. (the coils are under the tank). To remove the tank - there are four bolts at the rear that you remove. Then tilt the rear of the tank up so that you can unplug the low fuel light (this connection is under the right side of the tank). Then remove the vent tube followed by the fuel lines that run into the petcock. Be sure to note which goes where so that reassembly will be done correctly. Then the tank can be slid back and off the bike. Don't worry about fuel coming out of the tank - it wont. Then you have access to the coils and simply replace them. Hint, use a small block of wood to prop the rear of the tank up while you disconnect and reconnect the tubes. Naturally, do not smoke or use any machinery near the bike that can create a spark.

Hope this works for you. Good luck.

P.S. The petcock must in either the ON or Reserve position when removing the tank.
 

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:eek:if you pull those out of the head youll find the spark plugs!!.
HI All,
Should have my head examined but am helping a friend fix up his triumph daytona 1200 96 model. It seems over the years lots of things are not standard anymore.

Caveat here, I know zip about triumphs do have the shop manual and clymer manual.

Pulling the gas tank to change out spark plugs, I removed the vacuum line and two pipes going into the fuel petcock valve. The manual mentions to remove tank drain pipes as well. I see two metal tubes out the bottom of the tank, no hoses there, assume their should be a rubber hose attached (to one or both? How long should this hose be?)

Also on either side of the top central spine of the chassis just above the carbs, I note to gold colored small cylindrical objects that have electrical plugs hooked to them. These appear to be part of the vacuum system for the carbs. They have a black hard plastic tube sticking out of each one of the cylinders, should any hoses be attached to these?

I looked at the bike bandit schematics and couldn't see how it goes.

Thanks for those who take pity and might help!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Zvezdah,

Below I have copied and pasted a post that I made last June for someone who was having ignition coil problems. Since this involves removal of the tank, this procedure applies to what you are doing.
I have a '99, but should be the same. There is one tank vent. The other hoses are to the petcock and then there is the low fuel warning connection (a wire on the lower right side of the tank).

As for the "gold colored small cylindrical objects", I do not have such. I think these are the ignition coils (mine are black and rather rectangular in shape). There should be two of them attached to the central spine, and they have friction fit wires attached to them. Maybe your shop manual will show this. I use the Haynes 2162 manual "91 to '99, and this is shown in section 5.2

.
Hi John,
Thanks very much, so I need a drain pipe as it's def. missing from this bike. The two cylindrical objects with vacuum lines to the carbs are part of the evaporative loss system, discovered this in the manual last nite.

I test rode the bike yesterday and suspect one of the coils is bad as the #4 coil was very corroded where the spark plug wire plugs in, the others were all clean, seems odd to me. But think maybe new plug wires and coils.

Chris
 

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Zvezdeh,

You're welcome. Glad to help.

Sounds like you have a California model as only these have the evaporative loss system. This explains why I did not recognise the two cylindrical objects. See evaporative illustration in section 14.1 of the Haynes manual, if this is what you are using. So now it looks like you have two tubes coming off the bottom of the tank.

You might consider adding to the information in your member area so that we can see where you live. Sometimes it is relevant to repairs.

When you install the vent tube on the tank, make it long enough to hang down to just the bottom of the bike - about where the center stand would be it there was one (B-T-W, if you want a center stand the Trophy one fits). The vented gas fumes are corrosive, so you want them to exit away from the bike. This applies to the battery vent tube too.

There is a procedure (in the Haynes manual) to checking to see if the ignition coils are good. Even if they pass, this is a part that seems to go bad on the Triumph so you likely will need them in future. For some reason, the web site for Nology that I gave in my prior post is not coming up, but their (California) number works. Here is their info:
Nology Engineering, Inc.
1945 S. Rancho Santa Fe Road
San Marcos, CA 92078
Tel: (760) 591-0888
Fax: (760) 591-0880

The ignition coils I purchased last June was item # 152 001 070T for a ProFire - PFC-06-D. $71.13 each, plus freight $15.00. However, they know immediately what you need from your model Triumph D1200.

If don't know if you have already done the sparkplugs, but you will need a thin wall socket to get to them. This is available at Sears. A normal wall socket will not fit the sparkplug well. I use an 18mm socket for a 3/8 inch socket drive. There is an Allen spark plug socket in the motorcycle tool kit, but mine would not do the job.

My sparkplugs are NGK DPR8EA-9

When threading the sparkplugs to the head, use a short hose that just grips the top of the sparkplug. This will help insure that you do not cross-thread the plug. If you do this you will very likely have to have the threads in the aluminimum head redrilled!!

New sparkplug wires seems like a good idea. I think Nulogy has these too.

Good luck. These are great bikes and once back on the road you will get a lot of pleasure, and you won't see another like it every block.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Zvezdeh,

You're welcome. Glad to help.

Sounds like you have a California model as only these have the evaporative loss system. This explains why I did not recognise the two cylindrical objects. See evaporative illustration in section 14.1 of the Haynes manual, if this is what you are using. So now it looks like you have two tubes coming off the bottom of the tank.
HI John,
Thanks again, my friend bought this bike new in SF and moved to GA with the army a few years ago. I did run a vent tube and ran it down by the center stand (this bike doesn't have one) and I suggested my friend might want to get one. I also think he needs new coils. I did bookmark an ebay seller who is a nology dealer and sells them for $66 for the two port coil. Fortunately all that's up to my friend. I did remove the tank again last nite and found a kinked vacuum line, also cleaned up the one dirty coil and now it cranks right up , idles smooth, no issues, I hope.

Incidentally, my first bike bought new in 97 was a 96 Sprint. that poor bike, I dropped it so many times the first few weeks. as T3 bikes seem very top heavy to me. I traded it on a t595 a year later.

Chris
 

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Yeah, the D12 is top heavy, especially with a full tank. However, not too many curves and mountains in Florida:) The straight-away power is addictive and she is rock solid in sweepers:D I put a Race Tech front end on, and a Hagon rear shock which helped the handling considerably. One of the other members - DaytonaCharlie (he must be hibernating this Winter) - replaced his Hagon with a Penske 8987 multiple adjustable shock, with the Race Tech, and swears by it.
 
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