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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys my t595 has an issue im hoping to get some advice on from the experts , the bike starts and idles fine but if I try to use the throttle it bogs down and cuts out , if I manage to catch the throttle above 2000rpm it will rev as normal but once below 2000rpm again will bog again, seems between idle and 2000rpm theres no demand for fuel , any idea as im at my whits end on what else left to check ?
 

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It will probably be your IVAC hoses that have cracked, that or the TPS. I would remove the tank, then pull off the IVAC hoses, basically they go from a small stepper motor to the inlet of each cylinder. Check them for vacuum and if cracked replace, you can use any decent fuel tubing, and you may find there are one way valves in line which can be ignored as they serve little purpose and were dumped on the newer model.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi thankyou for a quick response , the ivac hoses are all good ive replace with silicone vacuum hoses the issue seems to be a fuel related issue , I had thought about tps but testing revealed it to be giving all the correct values likewise with cps so im unsure what to check next , pipes inside tank are all good im getting good pressure from pump, if I use a bit of easy start to get the revs over 2000 rpm I can rev it freely no bogging down, my thoughts at the moment are either tps or maf sensor , however im getting no codes or incorrect values so , on tune ecu the tps goes up smoothly and is within spec ive also checked it on a volt meter and seems ok , im wondering if the diaphram inside the maf sensor is stuck or stiff and is only getting idle values then when the revs are higher than 2000 rpm it starts to read the air pressure properly again , hers a list of the thinga ive replaced or checked

..cps replaced
..ivac and hoses replaced
..tried different ignition coils
..swapped injectors and inspected inside tank
..tried different maps ln tune ecu
..tested tps and seems ok
..no fault codes will idle for a few min but will then die from fuel starvation
..can use easy start to get the rpm over 2000 and the throttle response returns

basically between idle and 2000 rpm something isn't telling the bike to inject the correct fuel ratio, I would guess tps however the thing is functioning how a potentiometer should , also tried resetting it in tune ecu , no change
 

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Air leaks cause high idle - if the idle speed is normal, there are no leaks as the ISCV* is able to control the total volume of air that it's getting
(potato/potahto - but the old-style device was actually called Idle Speed Control Valve vs Air on the 99+)

MAF sensor - there is NO MAF sensor on your bike - the only air pressure sensor is (essentially) atmospheric pressure not manifold pressure (on a T595 that is looking at pressure inside the airbox, but to all extents and purposes that is ambient pressure unless you has a severely restricted air filter - and that would cause more issue at higher rpm). That sensor should always read the same (close to 1000 depending on your location/altitude/weather) regardless of engine speed.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator - is this disconnected or connected to the airbox? (either is acceptable) - it must NOT be connected to the ISCV manifold

It seems to be lean at low rpm - they are all a bit lean, but the question is why so excessively it won't take any throttle?

Some history - did you acquire this bike like this? Has it ever run properly in your possession?
Potentially has the wrong map?
Does bike have original engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fpr not connected and a screw in the airbox where the port used to be that's broken off , I bought the bike as a non runner , suspected sprag clutch failure , however turned out to be the alternator shaft bolt had threaded and starter gear come loose in the engine casing , I replaced and she fired up , then noticed had split iacv hoses so replaced them

the previous owner was riding the bike and it still has mot (annual road worthiness check in uk) and has passed it consecutively each year for the past ten years plus so I'm assuming its been running and driven on road, I do know that the previous owner replaced the ecu and I have myself also checked the valve clearance and non are tight , I've tried the maps on tune ecu however I noticed that I have old cam I believe as on the cams there is a date from 1997 but have no rear wheel sensor fitted its a 98 model and there doesn't appear to be a map to suit old cam no sensor so I just use the with sensor maps and they all work but same issue nothing between 1250-2000 rpm , ive not checked the engine number against the documents so unsure if original engine as yet but there is a mileage discrepancy on the mot history seems back late 2000s the clock was changed to that of a lower mileage it went from 42000miles to 24000miles over a year and then continued to rise each year

i was thinking if the barometric pressure sensor is faulty and giving false pressure readings to the ecu , I've tried running it with the sensor unplugged and it does exactly the same if not worse also worth a mention cyl 2 gets a pop back through the tb every now and again as the idle begins to die I'm assuming this is due to the lean conditions

i have also been going over the idea that maybe the tps wiper termination points inside the sensor could possibly be worn and although the sensor gives a clean sweep on tune ecu once running it could possibly be failing whilst running don't know have to consider all avenues if im gonna find this issue its a tough one
 

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If TPS shows correct on TuneECU, then there is not going to be a problem with it.
Same with the Barometric Pressure sensor - you would see any problems directly in TuneECU

T595 map changed by engine number (as opposed to VIN, from 99 on)
Engine number 61508 is the cut from the original cam sensor/rear wheel speed sensor
The engine number is on the top of the crankcase, just inboard of the clutch lifter arm

I would believe a 98 would be a 9861/2/3 map - assuming is actually a Daytona engine and also has the appropriate Fuel Rail for that year also.
Is the Fuel Rail a round tube or a 'block-shaped' casting?

Older Fuel Rail with 'Short' Injectors




Later Fuel Rail with 'Long' Injectors



What is the value of the Injector Flow (should be 383.6)

And to what value is Idle Fuel Trim (aka CO adjust) set?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
rail is the second round type, yes injectors flow are around about that with some +/- but essentially around the 380 not much difference between them co was set to 36.7 so have kept it there and engine number ive found on the block is 048582 and the engine number on the documents is 048582 the same
 

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Head gasket problems aside .........
If you have that later style fuel rail/injectors (seems like you have a 'bitsa' bike there :D) then the injector flow is totally wrong for those.
You would be better running the 99 map I would suggest with the appropriate injector flow for those also. (285.8)
That CO number is really high - which computes with the fact that high flow rate value was being used, so it was attempting to counter significantly lean condition with a CO trim
i.e. the map thinks the injectors flow 384 when they only really flow 286 so the actual fuel delivered is way lower than it should be - high CO value is trying to offset that
You could try the earlier map with just the flow rate changed - that may work, think I would just go straight to the 99 map, even if is earlier engine
And put CO back to a more reasonable number, start around 10
 

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Discussion Starter #12
they should write epics about you my friend , 9860 map with the lower injector flow has give the bike the rev range back , if I go full wide open throttle quickly it still cuts out and still stalls at idle if left to idle without a blip here and there i say a blip but more of a smooth blip not fast if I smoothly use the throttle no issue in that rev range any longer , thankyou for your help mate just the head gasket to do now, I have a lot of emulsified water in the oil that is coating the crank case and clutch basket seems too severe to be condensation , should I look at cylinder pressure test first and I was thinking to use a copper head gasket
 

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Better clearly but might still be lean if its hesitating and need further tweaking
Since the maps were developed using different injectors with different flow rates, it is not necessarily as simple as just changing the flow rate
Try the 9896 map completely and see how that goes - if still not perfect you might need to revert to the actual injectors and map that match the configuration
You should also do a throttle balance
 

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Discussion Starter #16
im thinking about trying the advice given on this other thread by DEcosse as my symptoms are pretty much the same not too sure that the head is leaking as there is no coolant loss it just seems like a LOT of mayo in the oil , its not mixed in with the oil but after the bike was reaching temp the oil level started to raise up the spy glass a bit so im thinking perhaps the water was starting to separate from the emulsion and evaporate a bit maybe it is just condensation as lots of people have advised will see gonna run it a few more times and keep eye on coolant level , not legal on the bike yet so cant test drive on a long run so this may be the result of these short running cycles , as for the lean running I came across this previous thread that I think might help me T595 Intake Backfire - At wit's end , I also have pre detonation in the intake every so often when the idle starts to stutter , ive only noticed it in cylinder 2 though . the main fuse 40a had blown and been bridged with foil and had no continuity across the fuse so will replace that and see if lack of charging would have had any adverse affects on the running condition then failing that I will enrich the trim table as suggested in that thread and let you guys know if any change
 

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Discussion Starter #19
iacv has all new silicone vacuum hoses on and have not tried other maps yet as weather isnt the best at the moment so not been able to get out on it , symptoms are it will start and idle ok (at about temp of 36 degrees c) starts to run on 2 cylinders iv pulled plug off no 2 injector and its made no change in idle so must start unning on 2 cylinders , it starts by giving a 'shuft' noise as if the injector just injected air instead of fuel sounds daft but i may be onto something , I first though about heat soak into the crank sensor but even when warm air gap and resistance are good , so tested to make sure im getting power to injector and all good so tried replacing no 2 injector with one off a spare set I got incase it was a clogged injector still no change , reducing the injector flow rate to the 285.8 has made a lot of difference but seems to be when the bike is warmed up to 36 degrees it starts to cough and stutter and run on 2 cylinders
 

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Discussion Starter #20
nothing loading up into the f trim table its all zeros 0.0 on every cell on the table I noticed this with every map I load into tuneecu , I read on the map editing section that sagem ecu don't load up the f trim table from pc files and have to import from power commander software ….any advice on this and weather its what might be causing the running issues, no f trim tables , should I use a android emulator on the laptop and try loading up a map through the android software maybe ?
 
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