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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had posted this originally in another thread, but have broken out here as a quick reference.

This addresses only the female dry-break fittings in the Fuel Pump plate.
If you have the original plastic MALE fittings on the hoses, these are available as Free replacement as recall from Triumph
The FEMALE fittings are NOT part of that recall.

Metal replacement fittings are available here - http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=642 at excellent price.



(There is also part number & description of that part from source supplier (CPC) that you may be able to use to find locally)

Here are couple of pics that will hopefully assist with removal/installation.
(I'm using the OEM plastic fitting to demonstrate but the metal fittings are exactly same in this regard)

First up is to remove the lock plate off the top so you can use a socket on them

758628



758629


758630

To remove that, press in on the plate tab against the spring, and then push the lock pin down, below the surface of the plate; then slide the plate back over the top of the pin.
(I can do this with my finger nail depressing/holding the lock pin down as the plate comes back over the top).
Be careful to not let the pin and its spring go flying! The spring on the plate is less likely to get airborn.

Regardless, removal can be a pain - some get lucky and they come right out. With many, they tend to just snap off - combination of brittle from age and the epoxy like sealer that was used OEM. So try to be gentle and don't apply too much torque.
If it breaks off, you need to resort to an EZ out or similar - some have suggested sticking a hot (from a torch) flat-blade screw-driver in there.
If it comes out whole, great. If not, you will have to try to clean out the threads as best you can.
The thread is 1/4 BSPT - good luck trying to find a tap over here!

To reinstall, repeat the process of removing the lock plates on the new ones.
Wrap the fitting with PTFE tape first (looking directly at the thread end, the tape goes on clock-wise); do not try to bottom them out - just get them in snug - maybe about 1/2 - 2/3 of way in. You want to leave them in position such that the lock plates will be orientated correctly for easy access for install/removal of the fuel hose fittings (as you look at the plate, ~ 7:30 per clock)

Good Luck - hope it goes smooth and they don't break on you!!! :D

Here is how you can make up an extender/adapter for a Fuel Pressure gauge using a male & a female fuel connector piece of fuel hose and a tee
You can also use the same parts to fabricate extender hoses for servicing.

You can get smaller hose size if you want - the 3/8" parts linked are close to the same size (10mm) as the OEM return hose - smaller however will likely not make much difference to pressure reading nor flow at idle rpm; so you could also choose 1/4" or 5/16"

http://quickcouplings.net/osc/produ...d=662&osCsid=cb47dd7b1e9499e6e049b343a871e661



Plus

http://quickcouplings.net/osc/produ...d=673&osCsid=cb47dd7b1e9499e6e049b343a871e661



OR

http://quickcouplings.net/osc/produ...d=678&osCsid=cb47dd7b1e9499e6e049b343a871e661



Plus some 3/8" Fuel Hose, a 3/8" TEE and some hose clamps (get a 3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4" TEE if your gauge is 1/4")



p.s. cheaper in plastic

http://quickcouplings.net/osc/produ...d=177&osCsid=cb47dd7b1e9499e6e049b343a871e661



http://quickcouplings.net/osc/produ...d=192&osCsid=cb47dd7b1e9499e6e049b343a871e661

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
.... Incidentally, the 'O' ring part number for the male is T1240181
That OEM O-ring for the male fitting has Triumph price of $4.26 ea

I just picked up 4 at my local Napa AutoParts store over-the-counter for $2.65 incl tax.
(two to use, two to keep for spares)

The Napa Part number is BK 7272011

The spec is Buna-N-Nitrile; 5/16" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x 1/16" W

Industry std part number is AS568A-011

You can buy these even cheaper in a bag of 100!
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9464k16/=7nczzt - Only a 'bargain' if you have use for them however.

But for convenience, across the counter, no mail order, $0.60 apiece is pretty good deal.

Good tip if you swap these o-rings - or even if you are just re-connecting the fittings after the tank has been removed - use some Petroleum Jelly (or grease) to help the O-rings seat nicely - they are really easy to nick when dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When re-installing the fittings, note:

The WHITE (or silver) coloured fitting, from RIGHT side of the Fuel Rail, goes into the BOTTOM (outflow) fitting of the Fuel Pump plate.
The RED fitting from LEFT side of Fuel Rail, goes to the TOP (return) Fitting.

The OEM replacement MALE hose-fittings are NOT valved (although the original plastic ones were); so you will get some spill from the fuel rail when you disconnect the hoses to remove tank for maintenance. If the hoses are kept elevated above the level of the fuel rail, spill will be minimal. (or you can empty into a jar)

CAUTION: Do NOT do following test if you have a Valved MALE hose-fitting!!!
If you wish to test the Fuel Pump operation, leave the BOTTOM hose connected and remove TOP hose and place hose-end/fitting in a jar; Turn on ignition and Pump should run for 3 secs and pump Fuel into jar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Consider replacing the Fuel Filter while you are replacing the Tank Fittings - since Tank will already be drained.

The OEM Filter is Knecht Mahle KL-145 - OEM Part Number: T1240850

This is also available from BMW and Ducati Dealers - the BMW pricing is surprisingly the cheapest.

(Picture courtesy of Ferris)



BMW Part # 16 14 2 325 859

There are also after-market replacement options - personally I would stick with the OEM.

o AC GF61
o Fleetguard FF149
o Fram G2
o Motocraft FG-2
o Napa Gold 3032
o Purolator - F20011
o Wix 33032
 

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When re-installing the fittings, note:

The WHITE (or silver) coloured fitting, from RIGHT side of the Fuel Rail, goes into the BOTTOM (outflow) fitting of the Fuel Pump plate.
The RED fitting from LEFT side of Fuel Rail, goes to the TOP (return) Fitting.
hrm, Triumph must have replaced mine wrong then when they did it. My red is on the bottom fitting with silver on the top fitting.
 

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Great info on everything, especially the o-ring and fuel filter replacement part #s. Thank You DEcosse! I don't know if this helps anyone but I must have lucked out in finding the tap to clean out the threads, it is made by Hanson,the stamp on it is really small, the #s on it are either 1/4 - 18NPT or 1/4 - 1BNPT(not sure what the N BNPT in place of the S BSPT means). I don't hear of to many people changing over to the metal male couplings but the one I used in my model year Daytona is LCD23006V also from Quick Couplings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
... the #s on it are either 1/4 - 18NPT or 1/4 - 1BNPT(not sure what the N BNPT in place of the S BSPT means)....
NPT is National Pipe Thread - a US standard Tapered Thread
BSPT is British Std Pipe Thread - a British standard tapered Thread

They are NOT the same and the actual one required is BSPT.

Now - at 1/4", they are very similar - however not exactly same.

NPT has 18 thread per inch (1.41122 mm pitch)
BSPT has 19 threads per inch (1.337mm pitch)
 

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NPT is National Pipe Thread - a US standard Tapered Thread
BSPT is British Std Pipe Thread - a British standard tapered Thread

They are NOT the same and the actual one required is BSPT.

Now - at 1/4", they are very similar - however not exactly same.

NPT has 18 thread per inch (1.41122 mm pitch)
BSPT has 19 threads per inch (1.337mm pitch)
I was lucky not to muck up the threads on the pump plate then. I even matched up the threads on the fuel fittings with the threads on the tap and it looked like they matched up perfectly. Thanks once again for straightening that out and keeping people from putting a bullet in my ear.lol.
 

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I ended up replacing the fittings today and swapped the hoses around to the correct positioning. Both nylon nuts snapped off when taking them apart, ended up hammering a T55 torx bit into the threaded portion remaining and they came right out.
 

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decrosse what type clamp they use on the male end for the recall mine needs it but dont like surrendering my bike for a week to sit in a shop an shop hour away cost in gas to trailer it so i have a ride back and to go back get it exceed cost of buy male and female part and forget the recall job
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I believe OEM is a crimped clamp - but you will probably be OK with an adjustable (Jubilee) type of hose clamp.
Note that on later model, the fuel hoses are different diameters - 8mm & 10mm (& consequently different size barb fitting)
However on your T595 I believe both are same size at 6mm
 

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awesome i think i just do it my self and use clamp u mentioned
if i remember right last time i looked someone already replaced one crimp clamp with adjustable clamp so no worrys

btw i got some ? bout chain loosening after tightening
should i make a thread or just email you
dont want clog up forum im new here still learning way site works
thanks
 

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Here's a photo for reference.

Male fuel couplings:

The coupling on top is nickel plated brass from Colder Products. This version has the internal "dry disconnect" valve.

The coupling at the bottom is the aluminum Triumph "OEM" recall replacement fitting. No internal valve.

 

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The little spring-loaded pin on one of my female connectors is not popping out any more, so I'm going to replace both with the metal fittings. My bike is a 2000 Daytona 955i; the two female fittings are the same, aren't they? They look identical on my bike, and I'm planning to order the LCD10004BSPT part from quickcouplings.net, but just wanted to confirm that they are the same before placing the order.

As far as the male parts on my bike, the red one is metal but the white one is plastic. I'll be in touch with a dealer this week to see if there's any record of the male part recall being done on the bike. The parts are similar in shape, but the white one has a little "extension" on the part that goes into the tank fitting, which makes it a little longer than the red one. Does this sound normal?

Thanks,

Will
 
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