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Hi
No personal experience but I found a test of 10 boosters, I have just copied the top 3 + race gas results, and ignored the ‘also ran’ Products.

Not surprisingly the results mirror out the forums experience.



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2nd Toluene (Toluol) - 20 litres treats 100 litres RRP: $48
Octane Improvement: 99.3 (+2.5 RON)
Since toluene (pronounced toll-you-een – also known as methyl benzine) isn't a commercially advertised octane booster, we were unsure of exactly what ratio to mix the clear Toluene to the fuel.
From personal experience, and although we had seen high percentages increase octane even further, 30 percent was considered the maximum.
Available only from various fuel distributors (it is a special order through services stations), under advice we ran a 20 percent mix (quite a lot more than the others) and saw an impressive improvement of 2.5 RON.
This achieved the silver medal.

1st NF Octane Booster Racing Formula - 250 ml treats 80 litres RRP: $29.95
Octane Improvement: 99.6 (+2.8 RON)
An Australian-made product from Perth, the NF Octane Booster Racing Formula was the smallest bottle in the field, but looking at the mixing ratio, also the strongest relying on an incredibly small dose – a mere 3 percent!
Claiming to increase octane as much as 6.0 RON , NF took the gold medal in a surprising tie.
If it were a split decision based on concentration though, it would be the clear winner

1st Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster - 500 ml treats 60 litres RRP: $20.95
Octane Improvement: 99.6 (+2.8 RON)
The Australian-made Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster is the top of the range Nulon fuel product, claiming to boost octane "up to seven number".
The Pro Strength gained a joint gold-medal equalling NF's 2.8RON increase.

Race Fuel
VP Motorsport 103 fuel - Used straight fuel (20-litre minimum) RRP: $70
Octane Improvement: 107 (+10.2RON)
Purely for interest, we also decided to test a straight racing fuel. While there are many available (such as ELF) for no particular reason we chose VP.
The highest octane VP fuel which was still totally street-legal was the Motorsport 103.
Working out at $3.50 per litre and "designed for maximum power and throttle response", the VP was very impressive with an octane rating of 107RON – more than 10RON points more than PULP.
Obviously more expensive than the boosters but if octane is problem, racing fuel like VP may be the answer.

Full test: https://www.lotusmarques.com/info/technical/29-general/723-octane-boosters-do-they-really-work
 

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Peg

If you go back a few posts and read mine you'll see what you've posted is the same report as the PDF file I attached :)
That's how I got onto the Nylon Pro Octane Booster.
Not only does it raise the octane of the fuel but seems to promote a far more complete burn right across the piston tops.

davy
 

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For anyone interest - I believe Toluene is sold at True Value hardware stores in the chemical cleaners area.
 

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E0

Most of the modern Triumphs are setup for mid-grade I have 3 of them that work fine on it. I imagine the vintage bikes would not like it much though. ;)
...J.D.
The OP didn't state why he needed higher octane fuel and for what application. I use E0 fuel exclusively in ALL of my vehicles and mid grade E0 fuel in my bikes. Pure-Gas.org states HI is loaded with mid grade E0 retailers. Say NO to moonshine blended fuels.:smile2:
 

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Peg

If you go back a few posts and read mine you'll see what you've posted is the same report as the PDF file I attached :)
That's how I got onto the Nylon Pro Octane Booster.
Not only does it raise the octane of the fuel but seems to promote a far more complete burn right across the piston tops.

davy
Hi OCR
It seems this 1999 test has been reconstructed by several companies/wesites, ‘all my own work-honestly’>:)
Aus and NZ are covered well by the top two products, unfortunately the rest of the world is not, especially the USA, who by all accounts could do with it the most.
I know you have used the Nulon extensively with good results, have you tried the NF product that tied for 1st place in the tests? I am asking because NF appears to have more of an international profile (not USA though) than Nulon, also it appears to be more concentrated, requiring less for the same result. The cost appears similar, but I would rather carry a 250ml bottle than a 500ml bottle.

Interestingly; since the 1999 tests, NF have marketed a new product claiming up to 10 ron boost.
Availability is the key
In the UK their official importer is:
https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/632-nf-ultra-race-fuel-concentrate-1-ltr

I have also found it on UK e-bay

Nulon, In the UK I have found on Mazda racing sites:

https://www.racingbeateurope.com/nulon-pro-strength-octane-booster-1439-p.asp

Unfortunately I did not find any in the USA.

Regards
Peg

PS- OCR your auto spell check is having a joke with you.

For anyone interest - I believe Toluene is sold at True Value hardware stores in the chemical cleaners area.
Hi Back2
Toluene might be as good as it gets for the USA, it is hardly a handy concentration at 1:5 ratio (20%) but better than a holed piston if you have to go to areas where better fuel is not available, a treated tank of fuel and a litre (app.1 quart) in a backpack could give you a 250 mile range for a good days riding.

Regards
Peg

I have one Triumph that lives on the edge of detonation so this is of interest to me. I have been thinking about making an Ignition system that is a little smarter, but I will put that in another post.
 

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Hi Truckedup, I've never checked cam timing on any Triumph. I've just used the factory marks.

I see what you mean with the overlap, as it's actually effective compression we are really concerned about.

On the two t140 motors with 7.4 pistons cams were set to marks, not dial indicated. I can say they ran extremely well with the factory marks. This is on a '73 & '76 T140. Later T140 has lower compression from factory & different cam part #s, but what is profile?? That I don't know.

Regarding Harleys out here in CA the earlier iron head Sprotsters & the Shovel heads with 9.0 pistons do well with 7.5. That is what many do here.

On the hot rod cars they do stuff with cams. Variable cam timing on both I&E cams on new cars they do all sorts of stuff with including EGR. My son just bought a race motor aftermarket alloy block & heads. 500hp for his '63 Falcon. We'll see how it works out... Is installing motor over next few weeks. He competes in the Optima Battery ultimate street machine series.

Paul is doing a different '73 T140. It has high compression pistons & race cams. I'll try to see what his builder does.

Don
 

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I am certain that T140 cam forms stayed the same, however in 1981 both IN and Ex cam followers were the smaller 3/4" radius. Previously EX was the "R" type.
T140V engines I have rebuilt, including my own two, have had the cams timed to the factory marks and have performed satisfactorily. One of my engines runs 8.6:1 comp, and the other 7.4:1.
I'll be spending more time with the setting up of the Megacycle " Jomo 15" cams in my race project, though !
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thank you for ALL of the information that you ALL have me. But I think the original question was as to whether a fuel addictive (like berryman B12 or STP octane boost) will burn as fuel.
Of course because of my 3.5 years of living on the island of Oahu, on my CB1100 it definitely stalls out frequently and my Triumph SpeedBasterd (988) did the same thing, but FIRST!!!
Tomorrow I go to the DMV to be robbed!
But that's ok! I need to stop being so angry anyways!
Thank you again for all the answers!
If anyone wants extra credit, then what is WRONG with island gas????
My theory is that water got in it...

-StreetShark
 

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Peg:

No I haven't tried the NF product as it's hard to come by and the Nulon is just about as available as milk here :) and as it works perfect for me I won't be changing anytime soon as I don't need any extra boost than the Nulon provides in any case.
It also works terrific in my SR500 bored to 540cc with a hot cam, an 11:1 piston and fully ported head with a 38mm Mikuni too.

I don't commute on the Daytona anyway so in a worse case scenario I only need to carry 20ml of the Nulon to get a range of two tanks full if I leave home with a full tank (and the old spine limits my range anyway :) )
 

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When MAP stopped making octane booster I asked about it and was told that it is too hard to keep up with the often changing gasoline mixtures.
Speaks for itself.
 

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For the Aussies here.. I've been using Nulon pro Octane booster for several years now in all my bikes and the resuts are good
The Daytona runs around 10:! compression and 98ron unleaded doesn't cut it.
With the Nulon the thing runs very well.
I researched boosters just after I built the Daytona found the attached comparison test report and to my delight the booster is sold all over the country in almost every town at Supecheap Auto stores.
My riding mates are all running it in their older bikes and the results and benefits are tangible, no pre-ignition, much cleaner running with dryer exhaust pipes and a performance benefit for those with compressions over 9:1.
It seems to promote a better more even fuel burn than the straight non ethanol BP ultimate 98 we use as well as raising the octane rating and is quite economical at the 20cc per 5 litres dose we use as a 500ml bottle is around $A25.
OCR I notice that your dose rate of 20cc per 5 litres (4cc per litre) is quite a bit lower than the recommended rate (500ml treats 60L) which works out to 8.33cc per litre, was it a matter of trial and error until you found the optimum rate to use,
 

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OCR I notice that your dose rate of 20cc per 5 litres (4cc per litre) is quite a bit lower than the recommended rate (500ml treats 60L) which works out to 8.33cc per litre, was it a matter of trial and error until you found the optimum rate to use,
Yes, the recommended dosage was far too much so we reduced it as far as possible then added a couple of extra mils for a margin of safety.

I run the SR with well over 11:1 on 98ron (same as the Daytona) with that mix ratio no worries at all.

My Ducati 748 has 916 barrels and Wiseco pistons for a capacity of 853cc with a compression of over 13:1, it will run on the straight 98 but add the Nulon at 4cc per litre and it goes like a cut snake.
The difference in better burn is real.

It was trial and error and excess booster is just a waste and makes more deposit on the plugs and piston tops.
At the ratio we settled on everything is in a good balance.
I even use it in the Mito 2 stroke to promote a better more even flame travel with no issues with plug fouling (haven't changes a plug in 6000km which is good for a 2 smoke.

davy
 

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Let us know.

Interestingly Nulon have just migrated from a plastic bottle to an alloy one too.

What ratio will you use?

Their website lists it as 3ml/litre so about the same as we are using with Nulon (with our 1ml safety buffer)

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OCR I notice that your dose rate of 20cc per 5 litres (4cc per litre) is quite a bit lower than the recommended rate (500ml treats 60L) which works out to 8.33cc per litre, was it a matter of trial and error until you found the optimum rate to use,
I think the 500ml/60 litres is more a marketing device as most cars have about a 60 litre fuel tank, so a full bottle per tankful on cars is a neat one size fits all solution which also sells more product.
Car owners won't mess around measuring the booster out like we do ,,,,... just fill up and bung a whole bottle in....

//ocr
 

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Yes, the recommended dosage was far too much so we reduced it as far as possible then added a couple of extra mils for a margin of safety.

I run the SR with well over 11:1 on 98ron (same as the Daytona) with that mix ratio no worries at all.

My Ducati 748 has 916 barrels and Wiseco pistons for a capacity of 853cc with a compression of over 13:1, it will run on the straight 98 but add the Nulon at 4cc per litre and it goes like a cut snake.
The difference in better burn is real.

It was trial and error and excess booster is just a waste and makes more deposit on the plugs and piston tops.
At the ratio we settled on everything is in a good balance.
I even use it in the Mito 2 stroke to promote a better more even flame travel with no issues with plug fouling (haven't changes a plug in 6000km which is good for a 2 smoke.

davy

Seeing that you already done the trial/error work and considering the high CR of your engines I may drop the rate back for my 1977 Bonneville from the recommended rate to 4cc/L and see how it responds, thanks for the insight one thing certain for me is that engine pinging was gone after adding the recommended rate,
 

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Seeing that you already done the trial/error work and considering the high CR of your engines I may drop the rate back for my 1977 Bonneville from the recommended rate to 4cc/L and see how it responds, thanks for the insight one thing certain for me is that engine pinging was gone after adding the recommended rate,

It'll work fine, We've run it at that ratio in Honda's, Ducati's, Yamaha's, Harley's, Cagiva as well as the Daytona and they all see an improvement in combustion as well as zero detonation.
The Harley Sportster in particular showed a great improvement and went from a sludgy black tailpipe to a nice dry grey/black one in just one and a half tankfuls.
Too much will just cause extra brown deposit on the plugs and piston tops for no extra benefit.
I always see a nice dry orangy/brown plug read these days, just like old times on super petrol.

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