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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all i have a s reg daytona 955i and would like to know can you put both brakes lines straight from the cailpiers too the resevoir , if not why not and if you can how the xxxx do you get them to bleed!
The reson i ask is i just got a comfort kit ie to raise handlebars and was given two long hoses instead of a long one a and a short one to go from cailper to cailper thenks darren:confused:
 

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I would just use one of the long hoses to replace the existing long hose. make sure that hose is longer than the stock one. Hose will have brass sealing washers on each side of the hose they need to be reinstalled with new hose,or if you got new washers even better use them. Do the same hook up on all banjo bolt fittings caliper and master cyl.
To bleed make sure the reservoir always has fluid in it. open the closest bleeeder to system and let it gravity bleed. wait for fluid to start dripping out of bleeder.Make Sue fluid is not driping on painted surface(wheel) put a rag or a bowl down to catch fluid. then close and go to other side and and open bleeder till you get fluid, then close. once that is done open left side bleeder and push brake lever down slowly and close bleeder almost at the end of its travel. Do not release lever tell bleeder is closed, do this several times tell you see no air pockets, do the same on the other side, making sure reservoir always stays full. You should have a soild brake lever now. If not, there is another cool trick you can try once you see fluid at the bleeders, fill a clear plastic bottle half way full with clean brake fluid (a clean pop bottle work well). find a clear hose at parts store that fits over bleeder tightly. put bottle on ground and stick hose in it. Make sure hose is below fluid level and attach to bleeder screw and open bleeder. you pump brake lever tell you do not see any more air bubbles coming out of clear hose. once again make sure fluid Reservoir stays full! once all air is out of system on down stroke close bleeder screw and repeat on other side. this works well on some stubborn rear calipers. And its fast once your set up!
 

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when you (think) you are finished "bleeding" use pliers to press the brake pad to the calliper side opening the brake fully up. Then pump pressure - do that 4 times one time each brake pad. Then strap the lever to the bar, and leave it for a couple of hours - or even better over night. I promish you rocl hard brake.

John
 

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I would just use one of the long hoses to replace the existing long hose. ...
Why not just use both hoses as the kit intended?

There is cetainly no reason why twin lines won't work - indeed arguably better bleed some suggest, since you don't get air bubbles trapped in the loop over the fender at the high spot (where air wants to stick).

Bleeding is no different - one side then the other.

Incidentally as far as braking pressure goes there is no difference.
 

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Why not just use both hoses as the kit intended?

There is cetainly no reason why twin lines won't work - indeed arguably better bleed some suggest, since you don't get air bubbles trapped in the loop over the fender at the high spot (where air wants to stick).

Bleeding is no different - one side then the other.

Incidentally as far as braking pressure goes there is no difference.
If you were to use both brake lines you will need to use the banjo bolt from the right caliper for the master cyl where the two lines will attach now. Then use banjo from master cyl on the right caliper. Other side will just be fine use sam e banjo.
The only reason why I was suggesting using on brake line is to keep it looking like stock. Did think you would want to see two brake lines coming off of the master. Plus I would think the left side would have to be a little longer tha right side to reach caliper, Unless line are plenty long.
 

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Twin kits are pretty std replacements these days (all my bikes have them) - can't speak for what OP received but my Galfer kits came compete with new banjo bolts and washers and the left line is typically a few inches longer.
I would need to research the swapability of the right (dual) caliper banjo bolt to the OEM master - at least on Suzukis I know for sure you can't do this as thread is not same.
 

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will the 14mm mastercylinder apply enough pressure - it now have to move the brake fluid throuh an area twice as big as stock ......???
 

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you are still moving the calipers the same distance for braking so the master cyl will be fine, unless you wanted to upgrade to a bigger unit. I here every one that has loves it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks

you are still moving the calipers the same distance for braking so the master cyl will be fine, unless you wanted to upgrade to a bigger unit. I here every one that has loves it.

Thanks for all your replys , i tried with both connected to res and could not get any sort of brake whatsoever , and tried on and off for three days! , went back to the triumph set up and had a brake in 15 mins! strange.?
anyway thanks again , its my first time on here and nice to get so much help , i should have joined ages ago. i have had my triumph for 7.5 years which is the longest i have ever kept a bike. my other bike is a honda cbf1000 but would have been another triumph had my local triumph dealer wanted to sell me one! but thats a story for another day !
 
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