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There's been a lot of discussion and questions about why the clutch sticks. I was given a tip and wanted to share it for those who don't want to have free their clutch when they haven't ridden for a few days. Get a bolt, about a half inch diameter, wrap the bottom with electrical tape so nothing gets scratched, and pull your clutch lever in and put the bolt in between the clutch lever and the stop. Works great.
 

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hi, i pull the clutch lever back to the bars and put a zip tie around the lever and the bars but i think i will use your method im running out of zip ties!
 

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Both top suggestions, but I like the whole rigmarole of starting my bike, it is like a pre-flight check.


left petcock on - CHECK!
right petcock on - CHECK!
In neutral - CHECK!
tickle left carby - CHECK!
tickle right carby - CHECK!
key on - CHECK!
pull in clutch and kick once - CHECK!

CONTACT!
vroom vroom!

It is all part of the experience.
 

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Dog,
You forgot to FREE THE CLUTCH!
:D
Heres my routine:
Connect fuse to battery,
Open petcocks,
Kick once to charge carbs with gas,
Depress enrichners (Mikunis),
Pull in clutch and kick thru (Freeing the Clutch),
Turn on key,
Kick once and hear it roar!
Cheers!
 

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I have a feeling keeping the clutch springs compressed will be detrimental to them.
 

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With less than $100 and about 1 hours time anyone with a screwdriver and a couple of spanners anyone who can start a motorcycle can replace their clutch plates and adjust their new clutch.

It's worth fixing the problem, Trust me the pull you get with a new clutch makes the effort so worth it!!!!
 

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In the 40 or so years that I've been riding Triumphs, pulling in the clutch in neutral and kicking it over until it frees up has been part of my starting procedure...works every time.

Can't grasp what all the "hoopla" is about, that's all: Jim
 

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Can't grasp what all the "hoopla" is about, that's all: Jim
If you have a bad knee, like I do, kicking the bike is not a problem. But kicking it and having the resistance suddenly disappear like it does when the clutch frees up can be extremely painful and harmful. That was why I was looking for a way to prevent the sticking altogether or find an alternative way to free the clutch.

There is a condition amonst old HD riders known as Sporster knee. It comes from the old kick start Sporsters, which were infamous for slipping and causing hyperextension of the knee. I got mine horsing around in a bar one night followed by repeated injuries in less embarrassing ways. Freeing the clutch on my Bonnie is not the fun part starting routine.

Maybe if I put wax paper between the clutch plates like they do with frozen burgers..... hmmmmm.
Rob
 

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We've covered this before. I used to do the 'kick it over in neutral with clutch in' thing, but found a much easier way.

Start the engine, sit on the bike, pull in and release the clutch several times. Snicks cleanly into 1st every time after that!
 

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If you have a bad knee, like I do, kicking the bike is not a problem. But kicking it and having the resistance suddenly disappear like it does when the clutch frees up can be extremely painful and harmful. That was why I was looking for a way to prevent the sticking altogether or find an alternative way to free the clutch.

There is a condition amonst old HD riders known as Sporster knee. It comes from the old kick start Sporsters, which were infamous for slipping and causing hyperextension of the knee. I got mine horsing around in a bar one night followed by repeated injuries in less embarrassing ways. Freeing the clutch on my Bonnie is not the fun part starting routine.

Maybe if I put wax paper between the clutch plates like they do with frozen burgers..... hmmmmm.
Rob
I know what you mean about the knee stuff.

Someone once posted that their solution was to pull in the clutch and rev the engine a few times. I tried that and it works on my bike.

Have you tried this method and determined that this doesn't work for you? I'd like to know if there are circumstances where this does NOT work.
 

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I know what you mean about the knee stuff.

Someone once posted that their solution was to pull in the clutch and rev the engine a few times. I tried that and it works on my bike.

Have you tried this method and determined that this doesn't work for you? I'd like to know if there are circumstances where this does NOT work.
Yeah, I was involved with that thread and tried that technique. It worked like a champ. GPZ warns against it and did so in that thread. But I've yet to have that not work. Although my real Christmas wish is to have the clutch just not stick.

I would not be confident just pulling the lever several times. I prefer to pull it, and rev the engine to get it to break away. Given how many times I have to pump it with the kick starter before it frees, I'm doubtful that just pumping the lever a few times will work on my bike.

Another suggestion in that other thread was to put the bike in gear before starting and rock it with the lever pulled until it breaks loose. Have not tried that yet. Sounds like a good method and definitely assures a free clutch before you drop it into 1st.
regards,
Rob
 

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...

Another suggestion in that other thread was to put the bike in gear before starting and rock it with the lever pulled until it breaks loose. Have not tried that yet. Sounds like a good method and definitely assures a free clutch before you drop it into 1st.
regards,
Rob

That sounds good and makes sense but it usually doesn't work on my bike.

This whole sticking issue really hasn't caused any problems for me but I think I'm going to disassemble and clean my clutch before spring and see how that changes things.
 

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Hi, Snakeoil.....

As I've recently turned 66, I can identify with the "knee thing", however, I've always (or, more properly, lately) eased the kickstart down once or twice; that usually does the trick without sending me to the bottle of Aleve. It's the starting of the bike that isn't as easy as it used to be! I've also used the revving it in neutral with the clutch pulled in with good results I have to use it on the '02 Trophy...electric start on that one.

The "village idiot" feels that growing old is not for the young: Jim
 

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Noooo.... no need to rev with the clutch in. Just let it idle at high tickover (as mine at least does when cold), and leave the throttle alone. Pull in and release the clutch about 5 times - that's it. It'll then be free.

When I used to use the 'kick it over with the clutch pulled in before start' method, it took several 'kicks', and then when it freed it went suddenly - not good for the knee / leg!

My current method is drama free. It works on my T140D. Try it; if it also works on your bike, it will save you a lot of hassle!
 

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I am beginning to think that every clutch has its own personality based on how it was treated over time. My clutch appears to be original and probably did not have the best of care. I would think if it slips at all, the elevated temps would make it cook the oil when sitting and glue it together all the more. Mine take some serious kicking before it gives up and releases. Not that your method does not work Vince, but if I rev it, I know I've put a good shear force on that glue and it should break it free. Not sure idle would do the trick on my clingy clutch.

Interesting that you do it on the '02, Jim. I would have thought that clutch not to have a problem. Maybe they all stick and some are just worse than others. Guess that's the nice thing about a dry clutch. You can hear when it's disengaged. I remember the first time I heard a dry clutch. I thought the guy's bike was falling apart.
Rob
 

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I like the process of kicking it through with the clutch lever in. I will have the petrol on and the cold start plungers lifted (or carbs tickled) and the ignition off. A couple of turns of the engine 'primes' it with rich mixture so that a proper kick with the ignition on starts it first time.
 

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Hi, Snake and Dave...
Yep, they are all a bit different. I do prime my '70 and close the choke when I free the clutch, then 1 kick usually starts it. On the '02, I too was surprised to find that it had to be "cleared"; I almost dropped it in my garage when I put it in 1st and it lurched forward on me. Luckily, I always hold the brake lever tightly when I put it in gear (at least when I first start it up) so it won't "jump" away on me. By the way, when I mention revving the engine to clear the plates, I really should have said "blipping" the throttle; no need to go to excess revs to do the job.

Whatever floats your boat: Jim
 

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Another suggestion in that other thread was to put the bike in gear before starting and rock it with the lever pulled until it breaks loose. Have not tried that yet. Sounds like a good method and definitely assures a free clutch before you drop it into 1st.
regards,
Rob
Thats what I do with my speed triple if it's been left sitting for a couple of months. It normally works.

Webby
 

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Life must be slow for Webby as he's searching the forum for old posts to palaver about. I understand, Webby. It's been a long cold winter here in NY as well.

I did try that method and it would not free up my clutch. The revving method works like a champ, though and it my standard for my '76 anyway. Plus I do it on all my other bikes just for good measure.

regards,
Rob
 

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Sh*t !
Thanks for mentioning that snakeoil, I never noticed!

I guess I must have hit a link on a thread somewhere.
Winter was long, but it was 16°C today, so the bike's been out, well in the garden for a bit of a service and a much needed wash :)

Webby
 
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