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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greeting all, Newbie here. I just picked up a 1997 595T, I supposedly has a 2002 955i motor. I do know it has a Jardine muffler that could possibly be a full exhaust system.
Apparently the PO needed to cut up the belly faring and the left side lower to clear the later model cases. I'm trying to find out what year fairings will work with a '97 frame and an'02 motor. The main fairing is in good shape and I would like to hang onto it but if it won't work with later model lowers then I'll have to replace it as well.

When the PO did the motor swap he also swapped to a 2002 tank. The tank has it's own set of mounting issues but I think I have them figured out.

Thanks
JT
 

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.... I do know it has a Jardine muffler that could possibly be a full exhaust system. ..
Doubtful it is full system - most likely slip-on. I don't know of any full system for either first or second gen Triumph FI triples.
Show us some pics and we can help identify what you've got.
Daytona or S3 955 motor?

Early tank will fit but it is a squeeze. Check my sig pic for early tank over the 02+ motor/airbox. The early tank also has compatibility issues with the fuellevel sender however, but I have work-around for that also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll get some pics tomorrow.

During my research I also found out he converted to a 955i dash with a digital speedometer that doesn't work. I was reading about using a GSXR100 pickup. Is this applicable for a 1997 front end with a '02 dash? Worst case I can always use my GPS as a speedo but would really like to make the factory one work.
Th fuel sender seems to work okay. The light came on today while I was playing around and running it around the block. I'm sure there are a million things that will pop up that need to be looked at.

I'm no stranger to bikes but my last Triumph was a 1969 500.
 

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...During my research I also found out he converted to a 955i dash with a digital speedometer that doesn't work. ....
Is it only the speedometer part that doesn't work?
What did he use for speed sender? The original T595 had a mechanical drive speedo - the 02+ is electronic (as you already know) The 97-01 with mechanical drive has wheel with 25mm axle and speedo drive on right; the 02+ uses 20mm axle and speedo drive on the left.
HOWEVER - the Sprint 99-04 uses a 25mm electronic drive that is mechanically a perfect fit on the right side (Sprint & 97-01 wheels are interchanagable) and is also completely compatible electrically. That is truly plug n play solution.
Or you can use the method I authored using the GSXR sender.
Incidentally with no speedo sender connected, there would be an MIL (Triumph speak for Check Engine Light : MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp) with a P1501 or P1502 Error code.

Regarding the low fuel - sorry if I confused - with the 02+ tank then there should indeed be no problem with the fuel sender - I meant if you intended to go back to 'older' style tank 'that' would be incompatible in that regard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is it only the speedometer part that doesn't work?
Yes
What did he use for speed sender?
It's still got the original mechanical sender on the wheel not connected to anything. So right now I don't have a speedo except for my GPS
HOWEVER - the Sprint 99-04 uses a 25mm electronic drive that is mechanically a perfect fit on the right side (Sprint & 97-01 wheels are interchanagable) and is also completely compatible electrically.
Great information! Do I need to source an ST wheel to make this work?

Incidentally with no speedo sender connected, there would be an MIL (Triumph speak for Check Engine Light : MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp) with a P1501 or P1502 Error code.
Would the codes show on the digital readout or do I need to get an OBDII reader to check them? I know the engine lamp is lit.

Regarding the low fuel - sorry if I confused - with the 02+ tank then there should indeed be no problem with the fuel sender - I meant if you intended to go back to 'older' style tank 'that' would be incompatible in that regard.
I'm working up a mount to use this thank. I've actually traced this tank back to the original owner and am waiting for any info he can give me on it. IE: what year it is.

The right side isn't bad.

The left side however is a rats nest. I'll be cleaning all that up correctly.

On a second look in the daylight it appears that the pipe is a slip on.


I also answered my own question on Body work. I found out the later lowers are not compatible with the 595T main fairing. I may be breaking out my fiberglass mat and resin to come up with some sort of workaround.

DEcosse, Thanks for all you help so far!:)
 

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Sprint Speedo drive is a direct plug in on your Daytona wheel - even the litte drive plate that is behind the grease seal will drive the electronic sender.

The lack of speed sender will DEFINITELY trigger an MIL - however there may be other reasons also so you need to pull the codes to find out what else there might be.
There is no way to read the codes on the cluster - need to have a reader hooked up to the OBD port (should be close to the battery)
An autoparts store will read those for you.

Also definitely a Daytona motor so good news there.

Yeah, that left side is sure messy - what are the red wires for?

Another thing I see - the R/R that is at the top/center of the bottom pic - what is that mounted to? Is that just bolted to the plastic fender/battery box?
If so, that is recipe for disaster - thing generates a TON of heat and will fail quickly. I had mine in similar location originally - lost the R/R and it took the stator with it.

What tail do you have for it?
another problem is the compatibility of the early tail to the 02+ tank - not sure if you can make that work.
 

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JT, DEcosse has a pic with how the R/R should be mounted. The shifter is a '99-'01 unit that may place the shifter at the very toe of your boot. Get a '02-'04 shifter if you want to move it rearwards a bit.

Brad

PS I appears to me that the sidestand is extending a wee bit too far forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what are the red wires for?
The thicker one goes to a relay, I think it's for the headlight. I have not figured out where the other goes yet. But both are straight runs to the + side of the battery.

Another thing I see - the R/R that is at the top/center of the bottom pic - what is that mounted to? Is that just bolted to the plastic fender/battery box?
If so, that is recipe for disaster - thing generates a TON of heat and will fail quickly. I had mine in similar location originally - lost the R/R and it took the stator with it.

What tail do you have for it?
another problem is the compatibility of the early tail to the 02+ tank - not sure if you can make that work.
THE R/R is hard mounted to a plate between the frame rails. I thought it was the original mounting. It is in direct path of the air duct on the side of the rear fairing. I am running the stock '97 tail section. it mates pretty well with the tank. You can see it in the following pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JT, DEcosse has a pic with how the R/R should be mounted. The shifter is a '99-'01 unit that may place the shifter at the very toe of your boot. Get a '02-'04 shifter if you want to move it rearwards a bit.

Brad
Thanks but I have size 13 boots. It's one of the few bikes I haven't had to adjust the shifter to fit me. :D
 

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JT, Looking at my '98 and my '04 I never would have guessed that the tail would fit the next gen tank so well! I can see how the LHS fairing might need some clearancing for the stator.

The Sprint speedo driver and some conversion house cleaning and you should be set.

Brad

PS Does you ECU have one or two connectors?

PPS Just noticed that it has the '02> D955 headers. That likely required some clearancing to the lower right and lower fairing as it'sbent differentlyand and a larger diameter.
 

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... THE R/R is hard mounted to a plate between the frame rails. I thought it was the original mounting. It is in direct path of the air duct on the side of the rear fairing.
OK - should be fine - was hard to see in the first pic. There is no original mounting on a 97-01 rear subframe as there was no R/R! (Integrated automotive style alternator) Your mounting is same as mine, except I added an additional copper heatsink.

I guess tail matches better than I would have thought - the original front mounts of the tail screwed directly into tank - probably no matter that those aren't there.

The relay thing confuses me a bit - the OEM wiring already has relays for the lights etc, so not sure why the non-standard relay.

One more input on the R/R - the original harness from the stator output to the R/R was a bit wimpy and there was a recall to fit a new auxiliary harness - there is an interconnect just after the stator - normally up by the rear left of cam cover - then plugs into an intermediate section that goes off to the R/R. If that intermediate section is wrapped into the main harness sheathing it is original. The replacement is effectively a stand-alone harness that could be removed as an individual sub-harness. If its not there, best to get it - much thicker gaue wire. Part number T2504111
Details of that recall & how I mounted my R/R are here
(subsequently have replaced the OEM R/R with this mod - something to consider down the road once everything else is done)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Brad, My ECM has 2 connectors


The relay thing confuses me a bit - the OEM wiring already has relays for the lights etc, so not sure why the non-standard relay.
I'm not 100% sure that the relay is for the headlights. I was able to do some digging around and found out the 2nd red wire is attached to the - post on the battery. I'll have to chase them forward to figure out why they're there.

The replacement is effectively a stand-alone harness that could be removed as an individual sub-harness. If its not there, best to get it - much thicker gaue wire. Part number T2504111
It appears that has already been done by the looks of this cable. It comes off the Stator side of the R/R

My big question is what is this? It comes off the ECM and was tucked away next to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'll have to see if I can find the airbox in there. :)
What is the significance of the number of connectors on the ECM?
 

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Yes, definitely the barometric sensor hose - sensor is actually part of the ECM - it should connect to far right of the airbox (if memory serves)

Brad was asking about ECMN to determine which was on there - original T595 or the later one - it would be impossible to hook up late motor to early ECM though. You have to have entoire harness to go with it - which you do apparently.

Yes, you do have the upgraded stator harness - good deal.
 

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JT, With all of that extra wiring I saw on the left side, I wondered if whoever did the conversion came up with some kind of a partial harness work-around to use the original ECM with the '02> parts. Fortunately not.

Brad

PS Are there any remnants of something to hold the relays? Looks like they're laying loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
PS Are there any remnants of something to hold the relays? Looks like they're laying loose.
Unfortunately no. They are in fact loose in the seat pan. At the very least I'll be using velcro to hold them in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I spent most of the morning cleaning up the wiring. The red wires definitively go to the headlight relay. As near as I can figure since the PO used the original faring he may have had to do a work around for the headlights. That big bundle of wires looks like it should be tucked in the front fairing under the headlights. Even if it doesn't go there that's where it's going to end up.

Until I get a service manual I'm a little lost. I have 3 quick questions about the bike right now.
The first being the third "headlight" It doesn't light up now. What it it for?

The second being a relay on the bike that energizes when I connect the - wires to the battery. It's wires are as follow
Black/Green
Black/Green
Black
Purple

If someone with a 2002 wiring diagram could let me know I would appreciate.
Thanks

I also had the misfortune to understand why they put a standalone harness on the stator side of the R/R. The connectors got hot enough to burn my fingers. Is that normal?
 

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(Look for PM from me)

That relay is for the Low Beam on left side - there should actually be another relay for the Main Beam

The Triumph wiring is kinda odd: Power goes directly from the main/low switch to feed the left & right headlights respectively; there are then two relays that feed the other opposite light in each case.
This is for markets where the same lamp cannot be be used for both main & low, and it effectively switches over from one lamp to the other - this is simply accomplished by populating the relay slot - or not.
(Populated will have both lamps operate in both high & low mode respectively when the main/low switch is toggled)

.. I also had the misfortune to understand why they put a standalone harness on the stator side of the R/R. The connectors got hot enough to burn my fingers. Is that normal?
It's going to run pretty hot - but you want to make sure that the connectors are really integrating well and you're not dropping any voltage across them. Use dielectric grease to safegaurd against future oxidation.
Then be sure that your fuse #2 is good - if that is blown you get no charging to the battery and the R/R will have to go into 100% shunt mode - not good for the R/R or the wiring!
You can improve the efficiency of the R/R by taking the output directly to the battery (+ via a 30A fuse) rather than through the std cabling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That relay is for the Low Beam on left side - there should actually be another relay for the Main Beam
I spent some quality time with a valuable resource and combined with your info at least now I know what the extra relay is for. It's a control relay for HID headlamps. I was trying to figure out why there were a pair of regular headlamp plugs on the wiring harness and only one of them was being used. It was plugged into a min harness for the HID. Each HID has a control box cabled to it. I need to find a better place to mount them to be able to finish cleaning up the harness behind the faring

It's going to run pretty hot - but you want to make sure that the connectors are really integrating well and you're not dropping any voltage across them. Use dielectric grease to safeguard against future oxidation.
I've been cleaning each connector with contact cleaner and putting dielectric grease on them already.:D

You can improve the efficiency of the R/R by taking the output directly to the battery (+ via a 30A fuse) rather than through the std cabling.
That sounds like a good project as soon as I get these other warts worked out.

Thanks again for all you help! :bow:
 
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