Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Don't know of this will interest anyone but I was looking for a deep socket to fit the front drive sprocket nut on my '71 T120. It was a little bit of an odd duck, 1 11'16",and needed enough depth that it would fit over the transmission output shaft.

I was all ready to cut and weld in a sleeve on one of my cheap HF 3/4" drive sockets but that size isn't included. I searched high and low for an individual socket and found one here.

http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-454d.aspx

$26.73 to the door. I used it today and it worked like a charm. The one (nut) on my '69 is hacked up pretty bad from using a chisel on it. Perhaps next time I'm in there, and assuming it's the same size, I'll get a new nut.

Anyway, just thought it was an interesting bit of trivia. I'm sure there will be at least 5 other posters who have found it for less but this was my solution.

Art.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
Not sure where you're located but here in Maryland I found one in stock at Tractor Supply. Less than $10 and brought it home with me. Well made for my purposes. Much better quality than other cheapo sockets I have seen.

dale
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
Nice timing guys. I need one for my '66 rebuild and I have two TSC stores to pick from.

Thanks,
Rob
Rob,

I actually had to go back twice because they were out but on regular re-stock so I had it within a week. It is 3/4" drive so I bought an adapter to 1/2". Evidently there's some big nuts on farm equipment. Being that it was out of stock the first time, it must be a somewhat popular size with reasonable quality. If you can't trust the farmers, who can you trust?

Dale
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
I'm sure that the TSC socket is made in China by prisoners. But I'm doubtful you could break it unlest you put an impact wrench on it.

I was going to try to find a cheap used socket and just weld a length of pipe on it. But I could only find brands like Snap-on used and they came with mortgage papers. None of them were deep sockets, either.

I'll be heading over to TSC tomorrow to see if they have one and if not, ask them to put on on their next order.

Thanks again,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
Have you actually tried using one of these? They fit the nut very nicely, but they are too short for a tommy bar to go through because the mainshaft is in the way! I know because I bought one and found out the hard way!

Luckily I had spare 5/8" Whitworth socket that fitted snugly inside, so a friend welded it in for me and I could then turn it with a socket T bar. No idea how people use these things otherwise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
For this socket to be really useful you really need a way to use an impact wrench on it. Otherwise you end up having to use the chain and rear brake to hold the sprocket while you tighten it. If you have the engine on the bench you have to wait until you have the engine back in the frame and everything reassembled before you have a means of holding it.

Just something else to consider, Art.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
For this socket to be really useful you really need a way to use an impact wrench on it. Otherwise you end up having to use the chain and rear brake to hold the sprocket while you tighten it. If you have the engine on the bench you have to wait until you have the engine back in the frame and everything reassembled before you have a means of holding it.

Just something else to consider, Art.
I actually made a wrench that holds the sprocket while you tighten the nut. Made from a piece of bar stock and a section of old chain.

There is a picture of it in my resto thread (Rob's '66 T120R).

I would not suggest using an impact wrench without securing the sprocket. Using the tranny as a source of resistance is not a good idea IMHO. So, rear wheel and brake or sprocket wrench is the only way I'd tighten this nut.

regards,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I just took an old sock and fed it onto the sprocket. Then used that to hold the sprocket. Yes, the output gear does take some of the "inpact" but I can't see how that will harm it. However, I will look at it again.

Art.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
Not sure where you're located but here in Maryland I found one in stock at Tractor Supply. Less than $10 and brought it home with me. Well made for my purposes. Much better quality than other cheapo sockets I have seen.

dale
Dale,

Can you please post the SCU number for that socket. I went to TSC today and they did not have it, nor could they find it in their computer system. I just went on their website and could not find it there either.

They did have a standard 1-11/16 3/4" drive socket for $6.99 which will be my fallback if I can't find the deep socket. I'll just weld another cheap socket to it to make it deep and able to accept a breaker bar.

Thanks,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
I just took an old sock and fed it onto the sprocket. Then used that to hold the sprocket. Yes, the output gear does take some of the "inpact" but I can't see how that will harm it. However, I will look at it again.

Art.
If you mean you locked the sprocket by feeding an old sock between the sprocket teeth and the chain, that's not unlike using just the chain and rear wheel/brake to hold the sprocket. I was thinking that you were putting it in gear and using engine thru the tranny to keep the shaft from spinning.

Not sure what you mean by the output gear taking some of the impact. If you are holding the sprocket, it in turn is holding the shaft so you are fine.

I guess I'm still not sure how you are suggesting the sprocket/shaft be kept relatively stationary while using the impact wrench.

I'm not trying to imply that you do not know what you are doing. It's just that folks that are new to this stuff will read posts and proceed on their own without realizing the implications and could do damage.

regards,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I guess a picture would help.

http://artshobbyprojects.com/workbench.html

The clutch basket and primary chain are not in place so driving the engine through the transmission isn't really an issue. Doing all this on the bench means you can seal it up before reinstalling the engine in the frame with perhaps only a readjustment of the primary chain after a little run in. Otherwise, if you use the drive chain to hold it you have to assemble the clutch basket and all the other primary stuff in the frame.

I'm sure there have been untold numbers of them done in the frame and if you were there to just change a seal of something of course that would be just as good a way as any.

Lots of ways to skin the cat,

Art.

PS, I shouldn't have called it an output shaft, it's really high gear and high gear is how the power finds it's way out of the transmission to the sprocket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
Thanks Dale. For some reason I thought you had said yours was a deep socket. Just read back and see that you did not say that.

I saw that socket in the store, well the place for it anyway, they were out of stock. But will have more by next Friday.

I'm surprised to hear it will fit over the shaft and still allow you to insert the drive handle. I figured I'd have to bore out the drive area on that one and then weld on another socket to have enough depth. Even if I do, it is still a steal at $6.99

Here's a link to socket on the TSC site for those who might want to buy one and don't have a TSC store near them.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/sockets-adapters-extenders/masterhand-3-frasl-4-in-drive-1-11-frasl-16-in-socket-3833606

regards,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
I guess a picture would help.

http://artshobbyprojects.com/workbench.html

The clutch basket and primary chain are not in place so driving the engine through the transmission isn't really an issue. Doing all this on the bench means you can seal it up before reinstalling the engine in the frame with perhaps only a readjustment of the primary chain after a little run in. Otherwise, if you use the drive chain to hold it you have to assemble the clutch basket and all the other primary stuff in the frame.

I'm sure there have been untold numbers of them done in the frame and if you were there to just change a seal of something of course that would be just as good a way as any.

Lots of ways to skin the cat,

Art.

PS, I shouldn't have called it an output shaft, it's really high gear and high gear is how the power finds it's way out of the transmission to the sprocket.
Hey Bird O'Prey - looked at the link and saw your petrol tank weld repair pics. That colour on your tank is exactly what I want to get for my spare T140 tank - do you know what its called? Even better, do you happen to know a modern auto colour that's very close?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Hi John,

The color is called Olympic Flame and is a translucent color. It has a silver base that you can see through the red. Then it is clear coated on top of that, think candy apple from back in the day. You will not be able to get the look of this from a solid color.

I see that you are in England so I don't know what you have for sources there. What I did was buy a small sample from Don Hutchinson and had my local paint supplier match it. Unfortunately Hutchinson doesn't ship over seas.

The silver base coat is just something that I picked out of a paint chip book, finding the translucent is the problem.

Here is a link to one of the pages from my web site about the painting.

http://artshobbyprojects.com/rebuild2.html

Art.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,527 Posts
Sikkens is a European paint manuf that sells paints in the US. I would think that they have similar colors/paints to Dupont and the other US auto paint manufacturers.

regards,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,174 Posts
Great info Bird )'Prey - I had one of my Guzzi takns sprayed with candy red paint - needed a silver base coat then a thin coat of what the sprayer called a red 'ink', then laquer. It looked beautiful.

But that Olympic Flame is the colour I wat for my T140 tank - that as background with flashes of white above and below the badges, with gold pinstriping.

Now I know what the colour's called I might be able to find something close for modern stuff, if I can't get the real thing...

Thanks again for your advice.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top