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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after another 3+ week wait (waited over a month to diagnose a starting issue at the same dealer), my '95 Speed Triple was returned to be with brand new fork seals, bushings, etc., a new petcock, and a freshly cleaned and lubed chain.

I should feel :D, but I'm more :mad:/:confused:

1.) The front brake is a rock! Prior to bringing it in, the feel was great, very linear and the lever traveled almost to my other three fingers on the grip (when two-finger braking). I get the bike back and the first thing I notice (when I'm 5+ miles away from the dealer and there's stop-and-go traffic to get back and they're closed) is that the front brake has virtually NO travel at all. It goes from nothing to full lock in just mm of lever travel. I chirped the front tire on the freeway with one finger :eek: It's obviously a horrible accident waiting to happen, but how did this come about? I have Heli-bars on my S3 as well as SS brake lines and there still appears to be enough slack for the lines. Why would the brakes all of a sudden be so messed up??!

2.) The bikes is noticeably heavier to push around (while on the bike so I'm walking it around) in neutral, even with a nearly empty gas tank. According to my receipt, all they did was clean/lube the chain, there's no mentioning of them adjusting or tightening it. Would a too-tight chain cause this sensation?

3.) About halfway through the ride home, I noticed that there was a slight "grinding" noise (albeit somewhat high pitched). I think the sound was coming from the rear, but it's hard to say since I was at freeway speeds. The sound came on when applying throttle, but I couldn't really tell if it went away above a certain RPM (I would've been going far too fast if I kept pushing it).

***okay, so the last two issues now have me thinking...did they do something to mess up the rear disc too (although I can't say for certain the sound was coming from the rear). If they misadjusted the brakes when reinstalling the forks, and the brake pads were making contact with the rotor, that would explain it being more difficult to push around, right? Although the fact that the noise came on with throttle application was weird too though....the noise honestly sounded like metal-on-metal contact, similar to brakes I guess. (/end sidetrack)

4.) My neutral light no longer comes on and the bike won't start with the side stand down (which is how I always start it) - just great...

5.) This one is kind of a good one actually...I've owned my bike for almost exactly one year (Sunday is our anniversary). I've ridden it in 95°F days without any problems but have never had the radiator fan come on (or the overheat warning light either). Once last summer I tested the fan by touching the two ends of the wire together and that turned on the fan, so I figured all was well and I just wasn't running it that hot). Well after arriving home today, the fan was on for the first time ever! And it stayed one for 2 minutes or so after I shut her down. So I guess with their work doing the forks or petcock they reattached a loose wire or something??? What are common reasons that the fan never comes on? Is there a way to check if my coolant temp warning light is functional and not disabled by someone that was trying to hide problems that the bike had in the past?

The dealer is closed now and I'm absolutely furious. Every single time I've left the place, I've sworn off going back, but so far I've had to every time. First they took a month to diagnose a starting issue and repair a pickup coil connection (took so long because they lost their service manual then lost the order for the new service manual). I promised myself I wouldn't return but a few days later the bike wasn't starting again so they had to pick it up. flash forward a couple weeks and the bike has the same starting issue again, but now it needs fork seals. Since they have to come pick the bike up for the starting issue, I figure I'll have them do the fork seals too. Then I break the petcock waiting for them to arrive and the bike starts - so it obviously needed a new petcock from the beginning. With everything fixed I was ready to pick the bike up today and start what I hoped to be a 5000+ mile riding season (I don't think that's going to happen anymore) and I'm greeted with all these new problems that they better address for free.
 

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Hard to push around, grinding noise, engine working harder than it should & getting hot......sounds like you have a brake problem ?

Easy to check because your wheels should spin freely when off the ground, chain again easy to check you should have about 35-40mm of free play (at it tightest spot if you check in a few different places you'll probably find a spot that has less free play than the rest) by pushing up on the lower run of the chain about half way between rear & front sprockets.

If they topped up your brake fluid they might have over filled the reservior...? that could then pressurize the system ?

If you do have binding brakes you might have a seized caliper ? underslung raers tend to be prone to this for all the road crap they get, I give the brakes a quick go over everytime the wheels are off to keep on top of the problem ;-)

Good luck with it

Cheers
Mot
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hard to push around, grinding noise, engine working harder than it should & getting hot......sounds like you have a brake problem ?

Easy to check because your wheels should spin freely when off the ground, chain again easy to check you should have about 35-40mm of free play (at it tightest spot if you check in a few different places you'll probably find a spot that has less free play than the rest) by pushing up on the lower run of the chain about half way between rear & front sprockets.

If they topped up your brake fluid they might have over filled the reservior...? that could then pressurize the system ?

If you do have binding brakes you might have a seized caliper ? underslung raers tend to be prone to this for all the road crap they get, I give the brakes a quick go over everytime the wheels are off to keep on top of the problem ;-)

Good luck with it

Cheers
Mot

thanks for the insight. They definitely did not top off brake fluid. in fact, brake fluid is definitely low. But the brakes were fine before bringing it in. Could they calipers/pistons have seized while sitting stationary for a few weeks (i don't see how this is possible. It makes more sense to me that using brakes with bad/low brake fluid would cause issues...but just sitting still shouldn't be a problem). The rear wheel seems like it turns and spins freely. Since I'm by myself, it's a little bit harder to check the front (since I need someone to rock the bike back on the center stand to spin the front wheel). However I do remember spinning my front wheel before while it was on the centerstand and it definitely seems harder to do now :( Still...is this the dealer's fault? Is there anything they could've messed up while rebuilding the forks and disassembling the front end?


By the way, engine RPM's seemed consistent to before the service (and subsequent problems). Indicated 80 mph was right at about 5500 rpm.
 

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Doubt they have done something to help the brakes seize.....all it takes is enough crap/corrosion/neglect and they will do it when they feel ready..!

That is of course assuming that is the problem, sounds like the dealer in question might have been able to carry out an array of misdemeanors...have they bled the system and then fitted HH pads..?

Must admit I'm struggling to think what they could have done to make the lever travel that small and the response that fierce ??? we all normally struggle for that, although not quite with the on/off result that you have described..

Cheers
Mot
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I went there this morning to get everything sorted out. They bled the system and fixed the problem. Apparently what happened was the last time I had it in (for the starting issue), they topped off the brake fluid. Then something about putting the brake pads this last time and the master cylinder having way too much brake fluid. So I think all they did was bleed the excess fluid out. The brakes were much better initially, but I feel as they may have firmed up again as I was riding (did about 100 miles) - but my impressions just may be off. The brakes still feel a bit tighter than they were before I serviced, but not dangerously so like yesterday.

And the bike is no easier to push around so it doesn't feel like the brake pads are rubbing or anything like that anymore.

Also, the neutral light and switch were fully functional today. I'll continue to watch the problem, hopefully it was nothing more than a temporary loose connection. No biggie if sometime down the line I need to replace the switch/sensor though.

All in all, the Triumph is 100% trouble free at the moment. The brakes are still fantastic (coming from my old Yamaha with single piston twin discs up front and a rear drum the 4-pot fronts with SS lines are unbelievable), the engine is running great, the exhaust notes is as lovely as its ever been and everythning works flawlessly :D
 

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More of a question of understanding the issues, than to be of assistance, .....but does the Neutral light come on once the clutch is about 75% released?
I seem to have this issue...I do not get a neutral light, despite being certain I am in neutral, until the clutch lever is almost completely out

Roger
 

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More of a question of understanding the issues, than to be of assistance, .....but does the Neutral light come on once the clutch is about 75% released?
I seem to have this issue...I do not get a neutral light, despite being certain I am in neutral, until the clutch lever is almost completely out

Roger
Hi Roger,

Check that you have 12 Volts at the end of the cable, where it connects to the neutral sensor on the engine block (when in neutral). The way the wiring works on these is that 12 Volts is supplied to the neutral lamp, and the sensor just provides the final earthing to the frame to then make the neutral lamp come on. It sounds like there is an intermittent connection fault somewhere. To eliminate the neutral selector, start there and work backwards. The clutch inhibit switch is also linked into this circuit as well, which may be part of the problem, but I'd start at the neutral sensor first.

Cheers
Steve
 

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Thanks Steve...will check that out.
Alrey....sorry to partly highjack your thread....:eek:

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Steve...will check that out.
Alrey....sorry to partly highjack your thread....:eek:

Roger
No worries. I know have a better idea of how the neutral switch works and will know where to look if it intermittently fails on me again.
 
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