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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After having a brag about reaching 100,000 kilometers on my 2007 Bonneville T100, http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-talk/577345-just-clocked-up-100-000-a.html, I have since noticed it now has developed a slight oil leak from one of the forks.


Referring to the OEM parts book I have on pdf that lists everything for Bonnevilles and T100's up to the year 2010, the fork seal I need is Triumph part number T2047108.

According to the OEM parts list, it seems they all used the same oil seal from the 2001 Hinckley Bonnie until about then. The only change being the front forks which have changed from engine number 343765 in F2 and 342439 in F4, but according to the parts list the same seal fits both type of forks.


Decided to verify with World Of Triumph as they have a good parts listing. There info confirms all of this. According to them same fork seal fits all Bonnies and T100's both carbed and EFI until engine number 380776, presumably sometime after 2010, when the fork seal number changes.
However World of Triumph do not use Triumph part numbers, they use their own numbering system and the oil seal number for my application is PFKL 1204746.


Checking some more through Hermys, they too have diagrams and use the Triumph part numbers but list parts and fork oil seals according to model year. They list year 2007 as an EFI model (which they aint) and having seal T2047115 from 2006 until 2014 . According to Hermys, 2005 and earlier Bonnevilles and T100's, use seal T2047108.


And SE Bonnies use a different seal again, part number T2044161.


Hermys fork seal numbers are at odds with the parts list I have and World Of Triumph.


As far as I know the fork inner tubes are 41mm for all Bonneville models, so am not sure what the seal change would be. Maybe it's the seal recess in the outer tube that has changed resulting in different seal outside diameters. It would seem that Triumph have used both Showa and Kayaba forks.


So the question is- should I be using T2047108 or T2047115 for my 2007 T100? And what is the difference between the two?
 

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THERE ARE BETTER FORK SEALS OUT HERE, search the web. Also gaiter your forks once installed. New Bonneville, Bella Corse etc. have good gaiters or check the forum for the best recommended.
 

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All Balls makes quality fork seals and gaskets. I pretty much seek them out. Probably cost you less than Triumph parts too.
 

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THERE ARE BETTER FORK SEALS OUT HERE, search the web. Also gaiter your forks once installed. New Bonneville, Bella Corse etc. have good gaiters or check the forum for the best recommended.
From many reports here, OEM gaiters are cheaper in the long run. :D
 

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From many reports here, OEM gaiters are cheaper in the long run. :D
The ones on my Scrambler lasted ages, but I put some Bella Corse ones on my 06 Black, they were very thick and supple, again they last for years. So I guess it's pays yer monies ya takes yer chances.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hear what you are all saying, but dont want gaitors and seeing the OEM seals have done well just want to know which part number is correct and if anyone knows the difference between the two

T2047108 or T2047115?

I'm sort of backing it's the former
 

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G'day, not a fan of gaiters, had them on my 2001 for a few years then one day just mucking around I twisted one of the gaiters and water started dripping out. Cut them off and found the dust seals had rusted, so no gaiters for me ever again.
Pete.
 

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Who's your seal

I hear what you are all saying, but dont want gaitors and seeing the OEM seals have done well just want to know which part number is correct and if anyone knows the difference between the two

T2047108 or T2047115?

I'm sort of backing it's the former
Bonza,

My search on Hermy's shows the T2047115 as the seal listed for your year. However when the fitment application screen is brought up it shows carb models up to 2005, and then EFI 2006 and later. Of course we know EFI didn't start until some time in 2008. I have spoken with Herm Baver, the owner of Hermy's, and he is aware of the errors in his system and is trying to resolve them.
The good thing about Hermy's is they deliver quick, and will make it right if the product is wrong. They are my parts supplier of choice.
Of course they are a little out of the way for you, and I have no idea of shipping times to Melbourne.

Good luck,
Charles
 

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G'day, not a fan of gaiters, had them on my 2001 for a few years then one day just mucking around I twisted one of the gaiters and water started dripping out. Cut them off and found the dust seals had rusted, so no gaiters for me ever again.
Pete.
Pete, not sure of the brand of gaiter that you had… but the Triumph gaiters have two weep holes in them… that a lot of people don't notice, btw… if you orient them the correct way… towards the low point on the back side of the fork… you'll never get any moisture/water build up in them. I've had mine for years and never a problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
last Sunday evening moved the fork tube protector and the dust seal upward to look at the oil seal and wiped the area clean. put it all back in place and did my usual 50 kilometer commute return ride to work and when back home noticed an oily mark on the tube again. wiped my finger across it and it was oily fresh.

received a message from SCbonneville that went like this
"Bonza, a friend of mine had a leaking seal on his Versys and was bummed about the prospect of doing a fork tear down and seal replacement… He did a bit of research and found that in some cases the seal isn't worn out, there is crud built up in them that allows the fork oil by the seal. The remedy is to get a very thin, stiff piece of some type of film… an old, unwanted 35mm film negative or something similar, works well… Trim a diagonal edge in it to give a pointed end. Wrap it around the fork tube and carefully insert the pointed end into the seal/joint and run it around the fork tube to "wipe clean" the seal… It worked for Kurt and saved him a tear down… It might be worth a try…"

so followed that advice, and after my 50 Kilometer commute today, it was as clean as a whistle, no oil on the tube at all. looks like using a piece of film to clean the seal has done the trick.
 

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I have all the things necessary for a fork rebuild. I'm going to give the film strip job a try beforehand.
 

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[/I]so followed that advice, and after my 50 Kilometer commute today, it was as clean as a whistle, no oil on the tube at all. looks like using a piece of film to clean the seal has done the trick.
Bonza, cool beans! glad that it seems to have worked out for you!
 

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+1 yes , and look better too.

Plasma.:D
+1 on fork gaiters, as they look brilliant on these bikes. My last set however started tearing the first week I put them on, my latest seem much better, so be careful where you buy them.

My girlfriend refers to them as "toilet-plungers"... As a result she has been banished from riding the Bonnie.
 

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As far as the different seals, one is slightly taller and has a larger OD. They started out with Kayaba shocks and changed over to Showa, maybe it's vice versa, no outer markings to clue you in..
 

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+1 on fork gaiters, as they look brilliant on these bikes. My last set however started tearing the first week I put them on, my latest seem much better, so be careful where you buy them.

My girlfriend refers to them as "toilet-plungers"... As a result she has been banished from riding the Bonnie.

My first set were from a company other than Triumph. They made it through the outer banks road trip. That's it. The Triumph ones still look and feel new and been almost a year now.
As for the toilet thing comment....yeah that low on her part. Riding solo is more fun anyway right?
 

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seals and gaitors

All Balls seals are a lesser seal than oem although I am used to the off road segment so not sure what seals triumph uses. An aftermarket seal that is made by the NOK factory in japan is sold by ProX. That seal is OEM on many bikes and is very good quality.
Actually the only seal that outperforms the OEM seal in some areas is SKF seals.
SKF are higher performance with less stiction but in some cases may allow the seal to ingest more dirt. Not as vital on a road bike.

Regarding neoprene fork seal savers it is a good idea to keep them greased. I use water proof Maxima. Having your seals lubricated especially when they have to run over water spots etc. is the largest factor to long lasting seals.
 

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NOK make the OEM Triumph seals too, I have heard way to many negative reviews of the All Balls seals, I would go with NOK or just get them from a dealer if they have them in stock.
 

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Fork gators are ugly. Maybe useful but ugly.
I changed my fork seals 2 weeks ago. One was leaking. 49,000 miles. I bought them from Bike Bandit. They were Allballs. I liked they way they fit. Looked good. Happy. As for how long they will last I can't say yet. But it was a strange job. And I am an auto mechanic. 49 years. Also I work on Race Cars. 18 years for you Jerky Boys.
But pulling out the top fork bushing seemed odd to me. I would rather leave that alone. But it must come out. Then putting it back in was fun. I actually should have used a brass punch but I didn't have one. But it is done and done. I didn't scratch the slider.
I put PJ1 15W oil in them. It is a little stiff but I just love it. No more front end bouncing. Highway speeds more stable. NO brake dive. Better Corning. I feel more planted. More connected to the road surface. Just a little harsh on stutter bumps.
The first seal took me 2 hours to gather tools and figure it out then 15 minutes to do the other one. So it is s 15 minute job. Just get some seals from some place and change them.


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