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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi.

My 98.000km 2007 t100 started to weep oil from the fork. I decided to do some maitenence and do an upgrade to cartridges.
I found a kit second hand, Bitubo T0010ABB09V1 , that never had been intalled . It was still in the unbroken package.
Since i would have everything apart , decided to change all the bushings as well. Seals and bushing are from All Balls Racing.

When i started to put things together it was impossible to compress the cartridge sufficiently to be able to screw on the top.

Anyone has experience in installing these cartridges ? Uncompressed , how far should the cartridge stick up ?

Thanks and greetings from Barcelona.
 

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Hi.

My 98.000km 2007 t100 started to weep oil from the fork. I decided to do some maitenence and do an upgrade to cartridges.
I found a kit second hand, Bitubo T0010ABB09V1 , that never had been intalled . It was still in the unbroken package.
Since i would have everything apart , decided to change all the bushings as well. Seals and bushing are from All Balls Racing.

When i started to put things together it was impossible to compress the cartridge sufficiently to be able to screw on the top.

Anyone has experience in installing these cartridges ? Uncompressed , how far should the cartridge stick up ?

Thanks and greetings from Barcelona.
This may be a stupid question..
When you install the cartridge and fill up the oil you push the fork tube as far as you can to the bottom to get the correct oil level, right?
Did you after that pull the fork tube back up at the highest position when trying to screw the fork cap back on?

/Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello again. The issue wasn't the oil. It was the oil lock, the white plastic part at the end of the tube, that strangely has "swollen". This means that it doesn't enter the tube entirely, it gets stuck halfway. Since the oil lock is fastened at the bottom of the fork, the tube, if lowered, gets stuck at the lowest position. When this happens is impossible the screw on the top nut.
What concerns me is if while driving and the fork bottoms out , will it get stuck at the bottom position? That could be very dangerous, no ?
I will try to sand it down so it fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another question, there is a shorter spring on the piston damper, or damper rod. Seems to be a spring that softens the rebound. Is it necessary in the cartridge assembly? The only way that it may work is by using the spring washer.
I have seen on this forum that several of you have installed the Bitubo ABB09 cartridges and sincerely the manual is quite poor. I just want to install it right.
Saludos desde Barcelona.
 

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Well, Im following this because I have the same set which I purchase about a year ago and since I have a fork leaking, I am updating them to the T0010ABB09V1 kit. Looking at mine right not, everything looks to be in tip top shape but no matter what I am following this.
 

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Some time ago I fitted a Matris F15K cartridge kit in my 900 Thruxton all that was necessary was drain the oil undo fork cap undo the bolt in the bottom of the fork remove all internals throw them away install cartridge kit do up bolt in bottom of fork leg fill with supplied oil to correct height screw in fork top adjuster . Repeat for other leg . The instructions that came with the kit assumed more Knowledge than I had so I visited you tube and found a video showing the process watched it through a couple of times took the laptop into the shed and using the pause completed the job . The last time I had any forks apart was over 35 years ago fitting new seals in a Kawasaki .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some time ago I fitted a Matris F15K cartridge kit in my 900 Thruxton all that was necessary was drain the oil undo fork cap undo the bolt in the bottom of the fork remove all internals throw them away install cartridge kit do up bolt in bottom of fork leg fill with supplied oil to correct height screw in fork top adjuster . Repeat for other leg . The instructions that came with the kit assumed more Knowledge than I had so I visited you tube and found a video showing the process watched it through a couple of times took the laptop into the shed and using the pause completed the job . The last time I had any forks apart was over 35 years ago fitting new seals in a Kawasaki .
Thanks for your reply.
That is what i've been trying to do so far. But in the video that i found:


they are installing the shorter spring. The cartridges are slightly different
they can regulate compression and rebound, i think it is the model:
T0030JBH12WO.
 

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Watched the video and yes that's pretty much how my install went only a lot slower .
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yesterday I made a video, but I can't post it directly here so I made screenshots. In the first foto you can see that the spring passes the cartridge. And in the second I put a washer. Is that the way to do it?
In the manual it says nothing about this spring.
 

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Yesterday I made a video, but I can't post it directly here so I made screenshots. In the first foto you can see that the spring passes the cartridge. And in the second I put a washer. Is that the way to do it?
In the manual it says nothing about this spring.
I didnt see a washer put on in the other video. I figured it was just the small spring and thats it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Exactly, they don't put on a washer, the cartridge tube is thicker than the ABB09. Well I'm gonna install it with the washer and spring. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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I sent a email to Bitubo about this. They have been good at responding so I should have a answer over night. Will report back tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, thanks.
I have been in contact with a firm that rebuilds suspensions here in Spain, and they said that they generally fit a rebound spring, even if the original setup doesn't have it.
Anyways the fork is practically done. I haven't tried it yet. Will be interesting to see what Bitubo says, and if see if I done It right.
 

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Sounds like a good idea. I kept it in. What could it hurt. Took little longer than I wanted but hey it's all done.


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Just as an update, received email from Bitubo regarding the rebound spring.

States its not needed but hey...its already in so its too late.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi everybody!

Thank you all for all your help!

I installed the cartridges with the rebound spring, we checked, and it didn't affect the travel length of the fork.
There is a small noice compressing the fork, we might take the rebound springs out in a future since they're not necessary.

We also installed Bitubo 380mm nitro rear shocks. i dont have the referencenumber right now.

We had couple of setbacks. but after cleaning the brake pads with a blowtorch i have had a couple of testruns along the road from Castedefells to Sitges. Beautiful and winding.

The ride is a lot firmer, not uncomfortable, but stiffer. I'm in contact with the asphalt now. Much more control braking.
The higher rear suspension makes the Bonnie more nimble, eager to enter the curves. It resembles a little bit the street twin that i tried earlier this year.
However I have to park her with the sidestand side uphill, otherwise she leans to much , on a plane surface no problem.

Thanks again!
 

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I'm rebuilding a set of forks with ABB09 cartridges. What weight of oil should I use and what volume per leg?

The short springs are called "top-out" springs. They cushion the fork tubes when rapidly fully extended (i.e: wheelies) and should be used.

/M
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Installation instructions

MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove the fork legs from the motorcycle.
2. Unscrew the upper cap of the fork.
3. Remove the spacers and the spring.
4. Drain the oil from the fork by moving the damping rod.
5. Remove the screw placed inside the lower hole for fixing near the wheel pivot.
6. Take out the original pump tube.
7. We suggest that you check that the fork rod and the outer fork tube have the following
tolerances:
Max. play-gap: from 0,10 to 0,15. Min. play-gap from 0,08 to 0,12. If it does not have these
tolerances the bushings should be adapted or replaced.
8. Re-mount the dust seals greased appropriately with BITUBO special grease (code no.
997615).
9. Insert the Bitubo cartridge, without the spring and the top cap, into the tube, and fix it with
the original allen screw and the washer. Then tighten it according to the indications of the
motorcylce manufacturer.
10. Pour out BITUBO synthetic oil SAE 5 until reaching the level of 145 mm from the top of the
outer fork tube, the measure to be taken without the spring. Make a few compressions and
extensions of the inner tube in order to allow a correct oil filling.
11. Wait at least 2 min before checking the oil level.
12. Check the oil level and add more oil if necessary.
13. Insert the spring BITUBO.
14. Screw the top cap of the fork in the cartridge rod up to the counter-nut, and then lock the
counter-nut.
15. Place the outer fork tube near the cap and screw, then tighten once the fork is re-mounted
on the motorcycle.
NOTE: One turn of the adjustment screw will cause 1 mm change in spring pre-load: clockwise
for harder adjustment, anticlockwise to release the preload.
The adjustment range is from 0 (pre-load adjustment completely unscrewed) equal to the
position of minimun preload, to 15 turns, equal to the position of maximun preload;
ATTENTION: don’t preload over this range.
WARNING: the cartridge is pressurized. It is strictly forbidden to disassembly it.
This KIT has been developed for RACE use exclusively, but maintain the hydraulic
stroke-end in compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
These are the instructions from bitubo.

My ride is really stiff now, I weigh 95 kg. There is no preload set and still its stiff, not harsh but you feel the road. It is getting better though.
Please let me know your experience.
 
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