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So, I am going through the 12k maintenance right now (actually, the 24k maintenance, but whatever...) and I figured I would throw out some pointers and stuff...

Doing most of the maintenance is not all that hard, and I am not going to touch on it... I am going to go into the valve clearance inspection, however, since it is a pain... :)

First, make sure you have everything you are going to need...

  • metric torx allen wrenches, torx bits, feeler gauge, etc.
  • replacement coolant
  • replacement valve cover gasket AND four of the ring gaskets. The ring gaskets are apparently even more important that the cover gasket, as they have a higher tendency to get mangled.
  • Threebond 1215 sealant (or equivalent). I found on a Subaru website that some of the equivalents are:
    • 3M T-3 Silicone (black) #08670
    • Loctite/Permatex #599 Ultra-Grey
Getting the seat and tank off aren't all that big a hassle, but the rest is a pain. You have to drain the coolant, because across the top of the valve cover is a coolant pipe that has to come off in order to get to the cover (fortunately, one of the other maintenance items happens to be a flush of the coolant). Once all of this stuff is out of the way, it is time to pull the cover off.

That is actually as far as I have gotten, since I did not have the sealant or replacement coolant, and my current feeler gauge is... questionable. I will pick those up on the way home tonight so that when I pull the cover off, I can do the maintenance check right then and immediately close it back up. I didn't want to leave the cover off any longer than I had to.
 

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Once you get it open any chance of a picture? If posting is a concern (was with my first one), just take the picture and send it to one of us - bet one of the 3 D's - Daryl, Dave or Daz would post it for you.
I would but I'm going to be out of pocket in the boonies for about 10 days with very spotty cell or e-mail coverage.
 

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O wouldn't touch valve adjustment on this thing myself. They make replacing the spark plugs a major pain, jet valve adjustment is 99% worse. I'd much rather have it done and spend a couple hundo. Well worth it. And by the way, whoever feels the same, ask several dealers for a price on valve adjustment alone if you have a few dealers close enough. I did and the difference in prices i got was like 50% different ! One was around $400 and the other around $200.
 

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FYI: There is no METRIC TORX drive.Torx is torx no matter what country you're in.The same with pipe thread.However,Allen wrenches come in both SAE and Metric. Naturally I have all of the above.lol Dave!!!
 

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There is a big difference in pipe threads; NPT and BSP are not interchangeable. They might look similar in the smaller diameters but are different enough not to be interchangeable, the pipe diameters are the same regardless of place of origin.
When I was an apprentice back in England in the seventies we had alot of American made machinery that we had to modify to accept BSP fittings etc.
 

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Please allow me to rectify my above statement about pipe thread.NPT [national pipe thread], and "ONLY" NPT is the same no matter where ya go.My apploogies for not being more specific. Dave!!!
 

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O wouldn't touch valve adjustment on this thing myself. They make replacing the spark plugs a major pain, jet valve adjustment is 99% worse. I'd much rather have it done and spend a couple hundo. Well worth it.
+1 I have 4 dealers within 25 miles and will leave it to someone who has done a number of them. I picked my dealer because they do a lot of Triumph work and seem to know what they are talking about. I do simple maintenance but that's it.
 

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+1 I have 4 dealers within 25 miles and will leave it to someone who has done a number of them. I picked my dealer because they do a lot of Triumph work and seem to know what they are talking about. I do simple maintenance but that's it.
Same here, tho i'll do more than dead simple stuff. i just won't tackle anything that 1-is a huge headache, or 2- know i may screw up due to lack of tools or knowledge or both.

i have a good mechanical aptitude, but i also know where to draw the line n order to insure the best chance of NOT being sorry either due to screwing it up or making a huge headache for myself. i don't have near the enthusiasm, patience or drive to dig in like i did when was young.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Once you get it open any chance of a picture? If posting is a concern (was with my first one), just take the picture and send it to one of us - bet one of the 3 D's - Daryl, Dave or Daz would post it for you.
I would but I'm going to be out of pocket in the boonies for about 10 days with very spotty cell or e-mail coverage.
Darn it... wish I had seen this earlier. I pulled the cover off last night, but didn't take any pictures, and have already torqued down the bolts again. If you REALLY want me to, it is still relatively easy for me to get back in there and pull it off... I have yet to get the coolant pipe installed completely. If that sucker was back on, I would say forget it!

Yes, at this moment in time I consider the coolant piping to be the biggest pain for this project.

Not sure what you would see with the pictures. If you do plan on doing this, remember that the coolant is really the biggest hurdle... once you have the cover off, measuring the valve clearances is very easy... they are right there in front of you.
 

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Then ya gotta pull the cams if you need to shim any. Thats where i draw the line and bring it to the dealer. Way too much trouble and chance of screwing up. My speedmaster was far easier because the cams were gear driven off a shaft that itself was driven by the chain and didn't need removal. yet even then i screwed up and dropped a washer into the works as i was zipping her up ! I don't need that kind of aggravation anymore !
 

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Darn it... wish I had seen this earlier. I pulled the cover off last night, but didn't take any pictures, and have already torqued down the bolts again. If you REALLY want me to, it is still relatively easy for me to get back in there and pull it off... I have yet to get the coolant pipe installed completely. If that sucker was back on, I would say forget it!

Yes, at this moment in time I consider the coolant piping to be the biggest pain for this project.

Not sure what you would see with the pictures. If you do plan on doing this, remember that the coolant is really the biggest hurdle... once you have the cover off, measuring the valve clearances is very easy... they are right there in front of you.
No, forget it, that's fine, I was just curious. Put 'er back together and go riding.
 

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I still don't believe that the cams have to be removed to change shims.I believe there were a couple of guys either on here or the other site who have infact changed shims on their bikes without removing the cams.I haven't had to get into it yet,but when I do,I'll be sure and let everyone know if it can be done or not without removing the cams.There are always short cuts to anything.And the words "IMPOSSIBLE" or CAN'T BE DONE" DO NOT exist in this business. Ya just have to stop and look at it. Dave!!!
 

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From what i heard there are some that potentially may be able to be changed w/o cam removal, but that some can't due to there being things in the way so you could never get any kind of tool in there to compress the valve. I hope they're wrong, and the first guy that does it and shows all shims can be changed and posts pics will be a frigging immortal hero to all birders for generations to come!
 

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I still don't believe that the cams have to be removed to change shims.I believe there were a couple of guys either on here or the other site who have infact changed shims on their bikes without removing the cams.I haven't had to get into it yet,but when I do,I'll be sure and let everyone know if it can be done or not without removing the cams.There are always short cuts to anything.And the words "IMPOSSIBLE" or CAN'T BE DONE" DO NOT exist in this business. Ya just have to stop and look at it. Dave!!!
I remember seeing these posts but I forget which site. I think they used a screwdriver to compress the springs althrough I do not like this as it nicks the springs and creates "stress risers" on a already overworked part. BTW if any has had their valves adjusted, not checked but adjusted, you can tell by looking at the chain tensioner at the front of the engine, If it looks ( the bolts mainly ) like it came from the factory chances are they did not adjust the valves. And also the cam cover bolts should should signs of removal as well as other things if you look and I encourage you to do so after the service, if it still looks factory question them hard!!
 

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I remember seeing these posts but I forget which site. I think they used a screwdriver to compress the springs althrough I do not like this as it nicks the springs and creates "stress risers" on a already overworked part. BTW if any has had their valves adjusted, not checked but adjusted, you can tell by looking at the chain tensioner at the front of the engine, If it looks ( the bolts mainly ) like it came from the factory chances are they did not adjust the valves. And also the cam cover bolts should should signs of removal as well as other things if you look and I encourage you to do so after the service, if it still looks factory question them hard!!
The other thing to do if they had to adjust the valves is to ask for the old shims.

Other things to look for after they have done this kind of work is for both oil and coolant leaks. Oil is obvious because of the cover, but in order to get that cover off a coolant pipe has to be removed, and this pipe is attached to two of the biggest offenders of coolant leaks on the bike, those two hose clamp connections up near the top of the radiator.

Also, when they put the cover back on, those four disks you see on the outside of the engine are supposed to be sealed in using a sealant.. there may still be some tell-tale sealant showing, so that is a good indication that they were at least in there.
 

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By the way, I got everything back together last night, and apparently I did everything right the first time, because it fired right up!

Hooked it up to the computer and everything looked good from that end as well. Throttle bodies were still balanced just fine, and engine response was good.

This maintenance sucks, and if you actually have to do a valve adjustment it will suck even more so (I didn't have to do one). If anyone else does this and can take pictures, please tell your story here... I am particularly interested in hearing what they do with all that bloody wiring that gets in the way, and also how much trouble they have getting that cursed coolant piping out and back in again (really, I consider that to have been the hardest part!)
 
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