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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody,

Can I use the heated grips electical connector under the fairing to power two 55w aux lights?

B
 

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A 55w lamp at 13.8v draws just under 4A of power. The accessories circuit is rated at 10A so, at a glance, it would appear that the circuit would be able to deal with the power consumption.

However, I would strongly recommend against it. I would suggest you take some heavy-duty (15-20A) stranded cable from the live-side of the starter solenoid (via an appropriate fuse) under the fuel tank to the the front of the bike, then relay-switch the aux lights via a relay.

It only took me a couple of hours to run the cable on mine, and is well worth the effort. You're far less likely to suffer significant voltage drop by using fatter wire too, which means more light output.

Cheers,
T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks tcowjjw,

I will do the same as you have, could you ell me where to connect the earth wire to (back to the battery) and what did you relay from.

L
 

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Good topic, I am about to start mounting my Hella FF50's!
By the way, how are your heated grips wired, more specifically;
can you switch them on when the ignition is off?

My dealer wired them this way w/o telling me about it. Naturally, I assumed that switching the ignition off and pulling the key shuts everything down on the bike. Two weeks of no riding w/ grips cooking in the garage and the battery is a throwaway! Good thing my dealer covered it under the warranty..
 

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Hey Jaak
Let us see how the FF50s look when fitted - I'm thinking of putting them on mine. :cool:
 

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Hi boocat,

I have mounted my aux lights onto the engine bars, and earthed them to these as well. Of course, there were no guarantees that there would be an adequate earth through the engine bars, but it seems luck was on my side in this case :wink: The general rule of thumb is to bond earths to somewhere secure on the main frame of the bike (i.e. not the engine bars or the fairing frame, for example) although your mileage may vary, as mine did.

In fairness to me, they're only a temporary install at the moment anyway because the 3rd party insurer finally reimbursed me for damage caused to my engine bars by their myopic client just under a year ago - so I'm tempted to get a set of the Thunderbike bars from NZ on which the aux light installation will be totally different.

The reason I suggest taking the positive feed from the hot side of the solenoid rather than the battery is personal preference only. It keeps the area around the battery clutter free, and makes it easy to remove the battery for maintenance (two bolts, two wires - rather than two bolts, 15 ring connectors and about 20 fuseholders :-D ).

It's a ballache taking the tank off, but definitely worthwhile to make sure you keep the positive wire routed safely away from sources of heat and abrasion.

I relay switched mine from the main beam circuit - the way I went about this was by soldering a wire directly to the metal lucar connector within the moulded plug for the right hand headlamp (the moulded plug itself pops apart and can be snapped together just as easily). Soldering to this connector negated the need to cut into any wires for the trigger, meaning the whole assembly can be removed at a later date if desired, with no permanent damage to the wiring loom.

I can probably dig out some piccies of mine if you like :hammer:

Good luck!

[ This message was edited by: tcowjww on 2007-03-07 17:42 ]
 

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On 2007-03-07 14:00, Skidpan wrote:
Hey Jaak
Let us see how the FF50s look when fitted - I'm thinking of putting them on mine. :cool:
It may be a few weeks or more, lots of stuff going on and i'm lazy on top of that.. I'll be mounting them on my Thunderbike bars.
 

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If you are interested in mounting Aux lighting, and don't want to add a separate switch, I found a neat little gizmo at Cyclegadget.com (not an advertisement and no affiliation).

It's a small little package for $20US that I mounted under the seat. Just a few wires: +12V, GND, output wire to drive external relay, and a sensing wire which I tied into the high beam relay.

When you flash the high beams twice in less than 2 seconds, the circuit drives an external relay and powers up the aux lighting. You pulse the high beams in the same manner to turn the lights off.

There is also the option for a single pulsed unit, and I thought they offered a garage door option using your existing garage door opener...I looked quickly and didn't see this while copying the link for the aux lighting circuit...

Link: Auto Switch at Cyclegadget

For what it's worth....

I forgot to mention that the unit comes with a little led light with about 4' of wire that lets you know when the circuit is triggered (your lights are on). I drilled a small hole on the top of the console and stuck the LED through.

[ This message was edited by: andy-D on 2007-03-07 19:45 ]
 

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I have PIAA 910's on my Thunderbike crash bars. I got the lights on eBay from one seller, the PIAA harness from another seller. The seller thought the harness was for a Harley, but it worked beautifully on the Tiger. It had a relay, the wiring, and a nifty switch that I have mounted above the high beam switch. I was able to install it without removing the tank, I did have to remove the front cowl, and I was able to remove about twenty feet of wire from the harness to shorten the runs. There are currently a number of driving light harnesses on eBay, I searched on "PIAA harness".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for your replies,

I've got a wiring kit from halfords with the relay, wires etc unfortunatley the intructions are so poor that i gave them to my hamster to make some bedding. Could some kind folk point me in the right direction with regards to relays... so far ive got the lights and switch fitted and got a wire clipped into the sidelight cable now im stuck.
 

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I did the same as Tuscon and got some PIAAs with a harness from Ebay at significant savings. So I wired them up tapping into a wire under the cowling for the switch power- the lights run fused from the battery. I also similarly installed a set of dual horns and tapped into another switched wire. I now have no brake lights or turn signals although everything else works fine.
I have given it the once over, looked at the wiring diagram- the shop manual leaves a lot out- and find myself scratching my head over what connector is what and what did I do now. Any ideas before I rip it out and start over?
 
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