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Hi,
Can anyone reccomend or advise on a flywheel puller suitable for the Hinkley Bonnie? other than the Triumph service tool.
I am in the UK.


Many thanks.
Dave.
 

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Hi,
Can anyone reccomend or advise on a flywheel puller suitable for the Hinkley Bonnie? other than the Triumph service tool.
I am in the UK.


Many thanks.
Dave.
Have you had any luck? I’m wanting to remove my flywheel and lighten it 1 kg
 

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Yes seriously.... from what I have found so far the thread appears to be M22 1.5

The reason I wish to lighten by 1 kg is after the performance modifications it will benefit the ridability

904cc 11.5:1 Arai Pistons
Web Cam 813C Cams
Ported high velocity poly quad design head with 2mm larger valves
44mm Street Triple Thottle bodies, manifolds and velocity stacks
Power Commander with AutoTune
2 into 1 TEC exhaust with reverse cone custom muffler

it will perform well and others with similar performance mods have achieved over 102 Rwhp and 69ft IBS torque which is a considered increase ... can’t wait to get the final parts and back together....
 

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By Flywheel, I assume you mean the alternator rotor. The thing with the magnets on the inside and the timing blob on the outside?
Do you have a lathe? Are you doing this yourself? You will need to make a shaft to mount the rotor on, so you could make your own extractor in that case

I seem to remember that Honda had a super short stroke race bike engine that didn't work because it didn't have enough flywheel mass. It would stall at low engine speed because it didn't have enough inertia to push the piston up thru the compression stroke. Anyone else remember that? Or is that just me?
 

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By Flywheel, I assume you mean the alternator rotor. The thing with the magnets on the inside and the timing blob on the outside?
Do you have a lathe? Are you doing this yourself? You will need to make a shaft to mount the rotor on, so you could make your own extractor in that case

I seem to remember that Honda had a super short stroke race bike engine that didn't work because it didn't have enough flywheel mass. It would stall at low engine speed because it didn't have enough inertia to push the piston up thru the compression stroke. Anyone else remember that? Or is that just me?
Bit strong mate... sounds like he’s simply asking after a puller ...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I seem to remember that Honda had a super short stroke race bike engine that didn't work because it didn't have enough flywheel mass. It would stall at low engine speed because it didn't have enough inertia to push the piston up thru the compression stroke. Anyone else remember that? Or is that just me?
I don't remember that. We used to machine away the entire rotor and windings leaving just enough of the center as a post to hold on the taper and hold the ignition cam on the end. Worked great. The engines spun up very nicely.
 

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By Flywheel, I assume you mean the alternator rotor. The thing with the magnets on the inside and the timing blob on the outside?
Do you have a lathe? Are you doing this yourself? You will need to make a shaft to mount the rotor on, so you could make your own extractor in that case

I seem to remember that Honda had a super short stroke race bike engine that didn't work because it didn't have enough flywheel mass. It would stall at low engine speed because it didn't have enough inertia to push the piston up thru the compression stroke. Anyone else remember that? Or is that just me?
TTP. And others have tested and if you remove up to 1 kg you get a good result with improved engine response and the effect of slightly less engine braking on deceleration. My performance modifications planned will increase the power considerably so the modification will be easily shown as a benefit.
 

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The engine will rev up and down faster with less flywheel inertia.
I would think engine braking would be governed more by compression pressure with the throttles closed, so the higher compression pistons, bigger cc's should increase that unless the cam timing provides a lower compression pressure thru more overlap.

I was just hoping the alternator/generator still works after all the material is machined off - i.e. the magnets are not machined away.
 

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The engine will rev up and down faster with less flywheel inertia.
I would think engine braking would be governed more by compression pressure with the throttles closed, so the higher compression pistons, bigger cc's should increase that unless the cam timing provides a lower compression pressure thru more overlap.

I was just hoping the alternator/generator still works after all the material is machined off - i.e. the magnets are not machined away.
From all testing of the appropriate lightening of the fly wheel mass on the Triumph Bonneville it has been shown up to kg lighter the engine responds well. The higher hp and torque of the engine modifications will certainly respond I believe even better as the torque curve is consistent flat and even across the rev range in which the 1kg lighter mass should enable the engine to respond more which I should feel. TTP in the UK have a lighter flywheel exchange program which is proven and have some interesting information.

What is interesting with the later 1200cc Scrambler they lightened the fly wheel more than the previous Thruxton 1200 cc which they claim also increases the engine response and on a model which you would expect would require a more placid engine response and flat torque curve.

Chef As for the machining the magnets are not touched as the machining of weight is in another area of the fly wheel so all is ok and not affected.

I’m in the process of sourcing the best fly wheel puller which is M22 to ensure not damage of removal dof the flywheel
 
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