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I Have a sp3 2002 with 3300 miles on it and the antifreez was never changed is it a bad thing? Or should it be done. Or should I fill the reservouir to the mark.
 

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I remember the local service guy saying that if he had a 955/1050 of his own he would flush the cooling system yearly as all the ones he has serviced have been full of gunky brown pretty much from new.

I wonder what is causing this. What part inside the cooling system is corroding bad enough to soil the fluid so fast? Or is the brown s_hit something else altogether?
:???:
 

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I wonder what is causing this. What part inside the cooling system is corroding bad enough to soil the fluid so fast? Or is the brown s_hit something else altogether?

its just the English water ...right Limey???? :-D :hammer: :-D :hammer:

[ This message was edited by: dano on 2007-02-08 03:25 ]
 

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On 2007-02-08 03:24, dano wrote:



its just the English water ...right Limey???? :-D :hammer: :-D :hammer:

Yeah, ya wanna see what it does to teeth! :-D :hammer:
 

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I'd go ahead and change it. It's not that big of a job. Also something to remember, there are lenty of really excellent coolants out there, now's your chance to upgrade the coolant. I have an '02 and switched to a coolant made by a company called "Liquid Performance", I really like the product and my bike consistantly runs 8-9 degrees cooler than before.
 

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On 2007-02-08 07:56, limebone wrote:
I'd go ahead and change it. It's not that big of a job. Also something to remember, there are lenty of really excellent coolants out there, now's your chance to upgrade the coolant. I have an '02 and switched to a coolant made by a company called "Liquid Performance", I really like the product and my bike consistantly runs 8-9 degrees cooler than before.
i don't know about switching the coolant. if you do, you should make sure it's the same "type." liquid perf maybe be. no clue. you can do extensive research on switching coolants, the damage that can be done, etc by doing this by mixing two different types. even after a flush, some residue remains. maybe this is like a dreaded oil thread type topic where everyone has mixed opinions, but, you won't find me trying to change the coolant type personally. read before you change your coolant.
 

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Yeah, ya wanna see what it does to teeth!

hahahaha...Limey, you were reading my mind....

back to the real post....if its green now and the bike is in storage, leave it till ya take it out and then change it....no need to let new stuff just sit there unused of a month or two. as far as the changing of brand of coolants, yeah be careful...there are types that are good with steel blocks and then there are types that are made for aluminium blocks...lots of choices. my suggestion...if ya live somewhere that makes your bike run hot all the time is to change to a compatible performance coolant. otherwise...stick with the Triumph recommended stuff. i have an 04 daytona (so my bike has fairings) and live in hot southern California....mine is fine on the regular stuff..
 

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Dude, all you have to do to drain the rad is unscrew a small bolt on the side of the motor and disconnect the bottom radiator hose from the motor. Drain, reconnect, screw the bolt back in and refill. I even use a little compressed air or run a couple jugs of water through to thoroughly flush it before refilling with Engine Ice or other non-water-based coolants. Easy job and shouldn't take more than an hour, even for a newbie.
 

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On 2007-02-08 10:27, dano wrote:
....no need to let new stuff just sit there unused of a month or two.
Err, if the corrosion inhibitors have broken down then leaving the old coolant sit in the engine isn't the best option.
 

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On 2007-02-08 12:06, kuhlka wrote:
Dude, all you have to do to drain the rad is unscrew a small bolt on the side of the motor and disconnect the bottom radiator hose from the motor. Drain, reconnect, screw the bolt back in and refill. I even use a little compressed air or run a couple jugs of water through to thoroughly flush it before refilling with Engine Ice or other non-water-based coolants. Easy job and shouldn't take more than an hour, even for a newbie.
like kuhlka said, it's an easy job. definitely flush it with DISTILLED water.
 

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Just to reiterate what jdub3 said, don't just drain the old coolant and add a new one! The rad. should be thoroughly flushed with distilled water before changing brands. Also I didn't make myself clear, the "Liquid P." stuff I run is approved for track use but also offers cold weather protection that most race coolants don't. I've run it for three years now and have seen no adverse effects on the bike. To the contrary as I said before it doesn't run as hot. Temp. was never a big deal on the open road but in August in VA. when you are riding stoplight to stoplight in the city, temp. can become an issue! Not to mention no bloody fun!!! :mad:
 

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On 2007-02-08 18:52, Avi8or wrote:
Isn't there some anti corrosion stuff you can add to the water?
Yep, but I don't know how it would work if you added it to old coolant. Probably better than not adding it. However, if the coolant has been in for quite a while with bad inhibitors, you're going to have contamination which will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. A simple flush won't do it.
 
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