I wonder what is causing this. What part inside the cooling system is corroding bad enough to soil the fluid so fast? Or is the brown s_hit something else altogether?
i don't know about switching the coolant. if you do, you should make sure it's the same "type." liquid perf maybe be. no clue. you can do extensive research on switching coolants, the damage that can be done, etc by doing this by mixing two different types. even after a flush, some residue remains. maybe this is like a dreaded oil thread type topic where everyone has mixed opinions, but, you won't find me trying to change the coolant type personally. read before you change your coolant.On 2007-02-08 07:56, limebone wrote:
I'd go ahead and change it. It's not that big of a job. Also something to remember, there are lenty of really excellent coolants out there, now's your chance to upgrade the coolant. I have an '02 and switched to a coolant made by a company called "Liquid Performance", I really like the product and my bike consistantly runs 8-9 degrees cooler than before.
Yeah, ya wanna see what it does to teeth!
like kuhlka said, it's an easy job. definitely flush it with DISTILLED water.On 2007-02-08 12:06, kuhlka wrote:
Dude, all you have to do to drain the rad is unscrew a small bolt on the side of the motor and disconnect the bottom radiator hose from the motor. Drain, reconnect, screw the bolt back in and refill. I even use a little compressed air or run a couple jugs of water through to thoroughly flush it before refilling with Engine Ice or other non-water-based coolants. Easy job and shouldn't take more than an hour, even for a newbie.
Yep, but I don't know how it would work if you added it to old coolant. Probably better than not adding it. However, if the coolant has been in for quite a while with bad inhibitors, you're going to have contamination which will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. A simple flush won't do it.On 2007-02-08 18:52, Avi8or wrote:
Isn't there some anti corrosion stuff you can add to the water?