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Back in April my petrol tank sprung a leak :mad: To repair it I used solder plastic metal and a chemical tank liner. I also scrapped off 30 yrs worth of paint :rolleyes: the liner itself smelled like the "Dope" use on model airplanes, it took days to go off and it still stains my petrol red but it did the trick. I also gave the outside of the tank a good coating of phosphoric acid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BrEBvjSHHQ
 

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You are dead right pookybear, I must extend my vocab. :D its strange talking to myself doing these vids I keep expecting the blokes in white coats to give a visit!:eek:
If the local "funny farm" saw how much time and money we "invest" in these old bikes I think they would send out the little men in the white coats for all of us :)

PS: I don't need happy pills, I've got a triumph ( a sure sign of madness:)

Webby
 

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Hi Plewsy,

What was that red stuff, the liner you used?

I have the old type Petseal in the tank of my Ariel, it has to come out 'cos ethanol turns that stuff to gum, that's a job in itself. but what to replace it with that is ethanol proof.
 

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Hi Plewsy,

What was that red stuff, the liner you used?

I have the old type Petseal in the tank of my Ariel, it has to come out 'cos ethanol turns that stuff to gum, that's a job in itself. but what to replace it with that is ethanol proof.
I swear by the Caswell tank sealer, ethanol resistant and doesn't need to be applied to a surgically clean surface, actually bonds better with a rusty surface.
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy...4JODs-0-sqIhdz3ZUUYJucu7qwh_ghbEaAjisEALw_wcB
I get the impression he didn't use a red sealer, but was removing the old red sealer and left over residue kept turning the fuel. The red sealer is usually Kreem or Redcoat and seem to carry the most tales of failure.
 

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I swear by the Caswell tank sealer, ethanol resistant and doesn't need to be applied to a surgically clean surface, actually bonds better with a rusty surface.
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy...4JODs-0-sqIhdz3ZUUYJucu7qwh_ghbEaAjisEALw_wcB
I get the impression he didn't use a red sealer, but was removing the old red sealer and left over residue kept turning the fuel. The red sealer is usually Kreem or Redcoat and seem to carry the most tales of failure.
Thanks Marc,
Just had a read of the link, looks like it should coat over Petseal if it's good for fibreglass or plastic. I would prefer to remove the Petseal in case the ethanol got in there through a pinhole in the new sealer. Removing petseal has resulted in scrapping the tank with some. I know one guy who gave up & bought a tank from India, his was good but others haven't been so lucky with them.
 

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Thanks Marc,
Just had a read of the link, looks like it should coat over Petseal if it's good for fibreglass or plastic. I would prefer to remove the Petseal in case the ethanol got in there through a pinhole in the new sealer. Removing petseal has resulted in scrapping the tank with some. I know one guy who gave up & bought a tank from India, his was good but others haven't been so lucky with them.
It specifically says to remove any old sealer first. From the negative reviews I've read about Petseal I would not apply the Caswell over it without fear of future failure.
I did not understand this sentence " Removing petseal has resulted in scrapping the tank with some.". Did you mean scrapping the tank, as in toss it in the trash, or scraping the tank , meaning using a blade to remove? and the end of the sentence of "scrapping the tank with some", some what?
 

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It specifically says to remove any old sealer first. From the negative reviews I've read about Petseal I would not apply the Caswell over it without fear of future failure.
I did not understand this sentence " Removing petseal has resulted in scrapping the tank with some.". Did you mean scrapping the tank, as in toss it in the trash, or scraping the tank , meaning using a blade to remove? and the end of the sentence of "scrapping the tank with some", some what?
The reason I assumed the Caswell product might go over the Petseal is that it is similar to fibreglass type epoxy & the caswell blurb says it works on fibreglass tanks.
Wyldes of Leeds have a product called Flowliner which they assure me will coat over Petseal. I don't want to be the guinea pig that tries it though.

A single P is scraping, like with a blade. A double P is scrapping like junk.
If the old Petseal won't come out with all the googled ways of breaking it up, what do you do.
I have read of many instances where people have removed Petseal using various chemicals, then others have said that same method did not completely work for them. The only sure fire way is maybe chuck it in an acid tank.
 

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The reason I assumed the Caswell product might go over the Petseal is that it is similar to fibreglass type epoxy & the caswell blurb says it works on fibreglass tanks.
Wyldes of Leeds have a product called Flowliner which they assure me will coat over Petseal. I don't want to be the guinea pig that tries it though.

A single P is scraping, like with a blade. A double P is scrapping like junk.
If the old Petseal won't come out with all the googled ways of breaking it up, what do you do.
I have read of many instances where people have removed Petseal using various chemicals, then others have said that same method did not completely work for them. The only sure fire way is maybe chuck it in an acid tank.
The recommended chemical for removal is Methylene Chloride, it is however terribly nasty stuff to work with, so many won't go near it. It is the main thing I use for stripping old paint and powder coating from parts. There is nothing faster, better or cheaper for this purpose. But you have to respect it and it's safety issues. I have a tank of it here and was pulling something out of it and for a second didn't put 2 & 2 together to realize why my hand felt wet inside the glove, then the pain hit and I rushed to the hose, stripping the glove off and washing my hand off. I had somehow popped a hole in the glove and with in less than 30 seconds did this damage. So you can imagine how well it strips paint, sealer and powder.
 

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The recommended chemical for removal is Methylene Chloride, it is however terribly nasty stuff to work with, so many won't go near it. It is the main thing I use for stripping old paint and powder coating from parts. There is nothing faster, better or cheaper for this purpose. But you have to respect it and it's safety issues. I have a tank of it here and was pulling something out of it and for a second didn't put 2 & 2 together to realize why my hand felt wet inside the glove, then the pain hit and I rushed to the hose, stripping the glove off and washing my hand off. I had somehow popped a hole in the glove and with in less than 30 seconds did this damage. So you can imagine how well it strips paint, sealer and powder.
Oh sh*t, that looks nasty. Thanks for the warning.
The stuff some of the boys over here have had some success with is Dicloromethane, I just googled your Methylene Chloride, it looks like it's the same stuff under a different name?
This has worked for some but not others where the petseal has settled much thicker like in the base. In your opinion, would this clean out all the Petseal given I might have to repeat the process. Does it require filling the tank with it or will a few litres of it, with the fumes it gives off, do the trick?

Edit: Does it dissolve it or break it up?
 

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Oh sh*t, that looks nasty. Thanks for the warning.
The stuff some of the boys over here have had some success with is Dicloromethane, I just googled your Methylene Chloride, it looks like it's the same stuff under a different name?
This has worked for some but not others where the petseal has settled much thicker like in the base. In your opinion, would this clean out all the Petseal given I might have to repeat the process. Does it require filling the tank with it or will a few litres of it, with the fumes it gives off, do the trick?

Edit: Does it dissolve it or break it up?
The nice thing about the B-17 stripper (Methylene Chloride) that is different than other strippers on the market is that it does not break down the paint or powder, it gets under it and separates it from the substrate. Unlike other strippers that actually break down the paint or powder, and continue to break it down until it kills the stripper, this stuff will stay effective with the old paint and powder in the soup. It should work for you because if the sealer has been compromised at all this stuff will get under it and remove it, quickly. If you use a small amount you will have to move the tank around to be sure it attacks everywhere there is sealer.
 

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The nice thing about the B-17 stripper (Methylene Chloride) that is different than other strippers on the market is that it does not break down the paint or powder, it gets under it and separates it from the substrate. Unlike other strippers that actually break down the paint or powder, and continue to break it down until it kills the stripper, this stuff will stay effective with the old paint and powder in the soup. It should work for you because if the sealer has been compromised at all this stuff will get under it and remove it, quickly. If you use a small amount you will have to move the tank around to be sure it attacks everywhere there is sealer.
Ok thanks Marc, I've just ordered a 5L tub of it off ebay £24. Best get it now 'cos seems some have stopped selling it 'cos folk in London have been throwing similar stuff in peoples faces. We have our fair share of nutters this side of the pond. Mostly in the capital but they do migrate.
 

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Ok thanks Marc, I've just ordered a 5L tub of it off ebay £24. Best get it now 'cos seems some have stopped selling it 'cos folk in London have been throwing similar stuff in peoples faces. We have our fair share of nutters this side of the pond. Mostly in the capital but they do migrate.
As you can see from my pic, if you want to mess someones face up, this is the stuff.
 
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