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Discussion Starter #1
I developed significant slop in the gear linkage on my 2007 ST, and Triumph in their wisdom do not sell just replacement ball pins - just the complete assembly, something like $88 per end.
My local BMW/Triumph/Ducati dealer however had just the solution - BMW Part number 07 11 9 901 736 (Ball Pin) for around $3.50 each! It is an exact fit on the 1050ST. Install took me 45 min being slow and careful, could go a lot quicker.
1) Remove the clip that retains the ball pin in the front end of the linkage rod. Pull linkage off the ball pin, and remove the old ball pin from the bike.
2) Remove 2x bolts on foot peg assembly, and slide the assembly (with link rod) backwards off frame. Repeat disassembly for the rear ball pin, then clean up the road grime before reassembly with new ball pins, and reuse the clips. There are neoprene rings that protects dirt and grime getting in - fit new ones - I just made a couple out of some neoprene I had.
3) Reverse the procedure above, use loctite on the peg assembly mounting bolts and your done!

The improvement is drastic. My apology if covered elsewhere, I did a quick search but did not find mention of the BMW parts. Sorry no pics either.
 

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Thanks for the write up! I know from my days of multi carb set ups on old VW bugs how important it is to lose the slop!
 

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Wow..$88 I wount throw the spares away then.

Thanks.
 

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My Buddy gave me a whole spare linkage off his '06 Speed Triple to go on my '06 Sprint ST, They seem to be a match, save for the casting of the shift-shaft clamp part facing an opposite direction (inboard vs outboard) but has the same leverage length, but I can swap the ball off it.

However, I'm following his lead and installing a no-linkage dirtbike solution tonight, like most of the speed triple guys. I bought a used steel one so I can alter the length and foot knob to taste with my welder.

I've experienced the no linkage improvement -WOW. and he only had 4K miles of wear. My new to me 06 Sprint is at 70K so I['m expecting greatness as I have to be very careful when shifting to get things to go right.

-Paul
 

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UPDATE on 1050 Speed Triple Parts to be used on the 1050 Sprint ST;

The shifter looks VERY similar but will not work due to small differences in how it clears the foot bracket.

You can use the ball and sockets, but that's it.

I found at 70K miles on the 1050 Sprint ST, the balls were still nice and tight in the sockets, but the shifter bushing was very, very, worn out. - Leading to bad shifts as the system bounces back against the clearance. -Not good.

I may look into a twin ball bearing upgrade....
To be continued....
 

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Shifter Ball Joints

I found it interesting that at 70K miles, my 2006 Sprint ST ABS had severe wear on the shifter bushing, yet the shift linkage ball joints were still very tight. I completely cleaned them out, and tested dry, they were nice and tight. I re-greased and reassembled with the original foam seals.

I've found a replacement bronze bushing with Teflon surface coating from McMaster.com http://www.mcmaster.com/#6679K16 Just $3.00 Installation may be tricky as the thin bushings can break, but buying 2 is cheaper than the $90 triumph shifter unit.

I also found a suitable Needle bearing (5905K96) with Twin seals that will fit, IF the shifter is drilled out to 18mm bore (vs. 14mm bore). That should be a lifetime solution.

The riding season just ended here in MO, so I'm going to implement one of the two options soon. I'll do an install guide.
 

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My 2011 Sprint also had a sloppy gear change linkage with only 9,000 miles on the clock.

I stripped it to investigate the cause and found that my problem wasn't wear on the ball joints (rose joints) but the lever pivot shaft had slight sideways play (not wear on the diameter of the pivot) about 25 thou, which doesn't sound much but equated to around half an inch at the end of the lever.

I managed to find a suitable washer and then had to reduce it to the required thickness on a oil stone. This has made a BIG difference to the feel of the lever and vastly improved gear shifting.

The job would be much easier if you had some 10 thou steel shims (12mm x 20mm).
I have been searching the web but so far without success.
 

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MSR TY80 gear shift lever.

Following on from my previous thread, I thought I would give the one piece TY80 lever a try as I have read many good comments about the conversion on the forum.

The lever I tried was the MSR 34-2146, which others have used succesfully. Unfortunately it didn't work for me as the lever is too long and I am unable to comfortably get my size 9 boot under it for upward gear changes. It is about and inch and a quarter too long.

I just thought I would post my findings as it may prevent others making the same mistake as me.

The attached images show the lever fitted, the red line on the masking tape shows the position of the original Triumph lever.

If anyone with small feet is looking for a one piece lever for their Sprint ST, drop me a line!
 

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Thanks lynnsboy. I was quite keen on this mod also but after sighting where the knob would end in relation to the original gear lever I realized the same thing and it would have been even worse with my size 10's.
I do remember seeing some that have cut them shorter and re-welded them but in the end I just did some fiddling and adjusting and am quite happy with the stock setup.
I don't have the play that you refer to.
 

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I have size 13s and after adjusting the lever up it works perfect for me. Just move it up a half inch at time to you find you can get your boot under it without thinking about it and it's golden. should take 5 min of your time.
 

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Well this is timely for my bike. Just over 50K miles and I thought I had sorted the ball joint, when I installed my MFW vario pegs. Cleaned the threads, no untowards wear, loctite and put it all back together, (not a user friendly situation to adjust, could be simpler.) and adjusted the angle while I was in there as well as the brake pedal on the other side. Both over due. Well the threads are loose again and that is where my slop is, so thanks for the BMW part #. Will give it a try. If not, then maybe some epoxy as a last reort before a new part. I may be heavy on it with my big work steel toe boots.
 
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