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Discussion Starter #1
So, last Saturday we were looking at ideas for my long awaited Lucas tail light mod. A little brainstorming to make it work without any major cashflow….

Tonight I picked up my newly chopped, rolled and blasted rear fender, along with my newly shortened front fender... Tomorrow I will be prepping the rear fender and fine tuning the cuts. I love the new look already:D

I’ve always been more of a spontaneous “Ready… Go!... Set?” kind of person anyway, so this brings me to a bit of an afterthought:
What to do with my rear fender in the meantime?

I have been planning on eventually re-painting my bike in the stock color with the addition of racing stripes. Who woulda thought that 2 fenders, 2 covers and a tank could cost $1.5K, or so to paint? A friend of mine would like to use spray paint, after it is primed, and swears he can make it look like a reasonable paint job. I was thinking that since I cannot possibly match the stock paint then maybe black or graphite would not be horribly gruesome.

Please offer suggesting with a minimal budget in mind.
 

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I'd just shoot it with some high build automotive primer, satin or flat black for now. It will look fine and anyone who questions it will get a nice story about a gravel road and some switchback someplace in bum %8ck North Carolina. :eek:

Any really good automotive paint supply store can do a reasonably good match and most of those places have the capability to pack it in an aerosol can. There is also a little device called a PreVal sprayer, available at some Hardware stores or online.

EDIT:
O yes, the materials alone for my paint job were a bit over 300$, and the clear coat was extra, the painter supplied that part.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Denny ;-)

I priced the actual stock paint code by dupont from a Shop in TX for $338, including shipping but with out the racing strip color. A local shop priced a similar color around $210. Apparently the red's are the most pricey, wouldn't you know :(

What sort of price range do you figure on a full bike paint for a 2-part paint? With the stripe?
 

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paint woes

I have a shop and charge $800 to $1000 for most of the bikes that I do. This is for basecoat/clear one color. $100 extra per color for stripes or flames, so the price does add up even for some thing as small as a bike. If you haven't done so I would highly recommend coating the inside of the tank before the paint job as a pinhole will ruin the paint job and you will be out the money on the tank. Also a note for the use of primer as the top coat the problem with this is primer does not have any UV protection and will not last long and will eventually start to rust leaving you to prep to bare metal all over again.
 

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Paint job

Customclint has done paintwork for me on several different Triumphs I've owned, and you can really tell when a pro does the job. It takes time and a lot of talent to make it look better than the factory ever could. Even though the size of the paint job is small, the time isn't. CC painted a 70 Daytona that I restored and took to the Vegas classic bike auction several years ago. Another guy was there with a 70 Daytona that was mechanically a better resoration than mine, but my paint was so much better that he asked me to please make sure my my bike was never parked next to his! The bike sold for exactly what I wanted! Cheers, tommyturbo2
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ended up using a Satin Black... looks good! Filler prep work could use a little more help but I'll save that for the prep on the full paint, although I gained some good experience. Ready for my new tail light this weekend.

I'll definitely keep in mind the info on the clearcoat UV protection. Not looking for a 'bargain' on the paint, but rather a quality paint job. I've already revised my paint scheme after looking at Customclint's tank... I'll stick to my original thoughts on the swish and a few graphics. Still have time to think about it and gather ideas.

Thank!
 

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Don't use spray paint if you do it yourself. The first time you fill it with gas you'll ruin the paint (trust me).

You can always paint it yourself. If you buy paint, compressor, accessories you'll be under $1000. Learn how to do it yourself. It's actually pretty easy once you figure it out. I've painted quite a few bikes in my garage. The first few attempts weren't perfect but I got alot better. Not only that, you'll have the equipment to paint other bikes and make a few bucks on the side. I know the pros are cringing but it's not that damn hard if you don't have to do body work. If you have dents, that's another story. I'm not very good at pulling dents or bondoing, that's just an art I never learned.

Obviously you're not going to be able to do fancy graphics or flames but you can do some really wild colors. I've played with metalflake, pearls and candy, you can really do a killer paint job in your garage if you practice, take your time and prep everything right.

Oh yeah, and most important you need time to do it. It's seriously an all weekend project from start to finish. Last time, I started on friday, got a descent night sleep and then went from saturday morning until late sunday when I did a really wicked pearl and metal flake paint on a gixxer.
 

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The Dupont Chromo Premier paints are expensive. When I did my fender, I went to a Napa Crossfire, and the basecoat and clearcoat were 1/2 the price. I found the paint a LOT easier to work with also. You can really make paint look good easy with base/clear - much easier to work with than a rattle can of enamel.

I am with Pax on this. It is fun to learn to do it yourself, and you can come up with a similar cost to a pro, and at the end you get to keep the equipment.

BTW - Natman used to work for 3M, and knows all the tricks, A... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope! I wimpin' out on this one and going to let a pro do it. Haven't decided which pro yet... Ya, my bondo talent is really raw :eek:

Now I'm just fussing about with thoughts on the design and graphics. Been having a big time checking out bikes all over this forum. Its coming to me a bit at time. Hope to get the full paint done in the next month or two.

I did prime and spray paint the rear fender in the meantime and will post pics of the bondo/paint process soon for good humor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
+3

Yep!!

So tell me about the fender mods.

It looks like you spent some time on an english wheel?
The ridge down the center is gone and the original light mounting holes leveled and welded closed?

Izzat right?
'Zactly. I had the English wheel work done at a shop and they chopped it while they were at it. The rest was me.
Bondo, wet sanding, primer, satin paint, plate bracket and then wiring. The wiring was a bit mixed up and excessive, so I ran new wire from about where it entered the fender; black to ground, red to black and blue to red. Go figure!

The tail light is not nearly as bright as it used to be so I'll be looking for a bright LED. Any suggestions?

Like it?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If your tail light is not too bright it may be the earth. Try running a seperate earth wire to the lamp body, the rubber gasket can prevent a proper earth.
If you want to make it really easy could always buy a ready made fender in grp, only £75!
Hmmm... No ground from the tail light, only 2 wires. I did run the ground (black) on the bike to a bolt from the fixture??? Of course the bolt has direct contact with the light. Thought this was proper.

The stock light had 2 bulbs and the new one only has one bulb, so that is part of the issue.
 
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