f3 forks
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You have to make this makeshift device to stop the dampening rod from turning when you try to undo the bolt. I used a broom handle and a ratchet tie down to keep pressure on it so I could loosen the bolt.
There are some other things out there that people have made also. I just used what i had on hand at the time.
There are some other things out there that people have made also. I just used what i had on hand at the time.
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867 Posts
Check my members album for some details. Recommend 5-7 wt fork oil. You will be using the triumph seals so you shoud be OK. You might be able to get the allen screw at the bottom of the forks out if you take it out before you take the forks apart. crank your spring preload to maximum.(have something handy to catch the fluid). Back preload to minimum before fork disassembly. good luck-T1
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2,390 Posts
Air wrench will remove the damper rods bolts with no problem - my local yamaha shop disassembled my stock forks for $8.00 bucks using this method.
John
John
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The F3 was made 95 thru 98. The 97 and 98 had revised valving but it is hard to tell if that is significant for our application. Some have gone on to update the f3 valving with race tech gold valves as a further enhancement.--T1
My forks are from a 98. I ebayed them for $150.00 so it seemed like it would be a cheap upgrade considering how much everybody talks bad about the susp. has anybody swap just the forks first then went back for the gold vavles. Is it just a small differance so it could be done anytime or a big diff. go for the full shot now kind of deal?
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someone should do a pictorial write up of this. i'm very interested in doing this mod.
One other thing. A guy at my local honda shop looked at my f3 forks to make sure they wern't to badly scored or bent or anything. I asked him how much oil I would need, he looked in the honda manual and it said f3 forks use 15.6oz of 7wt with a tolerance of .8 so he said if I use a standard 16 oz bottle in each fork and didn't drain the bottle of every drop I should be pretty much right on. does that sound about right to the ones whos already done this.
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Sounds about right on the oil.The gain with just the F3 forks and springs is quite good. I would start there and then decide if you think further improvement is needed. You can reuse your fork seals and dust boots, for sure the dust boots even if you wish to go with new seals. You can use the damper rod bolt that comes with your honda forks, just use blue locktite. As I recall I stacked the Honda and Triumph washers because the bolt sizes are different and you must use the Honda bolt.
[ This message was edited by: thruxtonone on 2007-01-10 22:32 ]
[ This message was edited by: thruxtonone on 2007-01-10 22:32 ]
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Scruffy - I did the race tech springs and gold valves when I did the conversion. The advantage of the gold valves is a super wide range of compression damping adjustments. The down side to this is the forks must be taken apart each time. They give you an excellent beginning point on an extensive questionair you fill out and you go from there. For me it ended up being a little soft but a switch from the 5 wt oil recommended to a 10 wt oil fixed it just right for me. I like to run my suspension pretty firm. Just a personal preferance.
John
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I can only tell you that some of the cup racers are using this conversion. I do not know what the rules are in regard to the forks.It would seem legal since any rear shock is allowed.-T1
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Newbie question but how do the RT Emulators compare to the F3 swap? I am interested in the performance, not necessarily the instal difficulty. I have searched, but have not found any real discussion comparing the two.
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The emulators will be a decent gain but only add deflected disc valving to the compression side of the shock. The cost of the emulators plus new springs will be as high as the F3 conversion, which provides cartridge (deflected disc ) valving on both the compression and rebound side plus provides adjustable rebound damping. The honda springs come as part of the package.
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