Ok, I'm going to attempt to explain how to do this using pictures found within Thruxtonones photo album.
24 hours after starting to tear down the fork's I think I have it figured out. The only thing not pictured are the Racetech Gold Valves. Note that these are not cartridge emulators, they are simply small plastic valve's that replace the stock valve's within the stock Honda F3 fork's. It is similar in appearence to what you will find inside the stock fork's, with differently shaped hole's for the fluid to travel thru. There is also a large assortment of shim's and such to fine tune the overall dampening effect.
I had a pretty difficult time with this mod, mainly because I did not have any anticipation of what to expect to see when I tore down my fork's. Had I simply viewed this photo, printed it, and taken it with me I would have been much further along.
I have numbered the different part's to make explaining how this work's a little easier.
Ok, what you are seeing in the picture below is the entire f3 inner assembly, along with the triumph lower leg on top ( #2 ) Again, if you are adding Racetech Gold Valves, ( not pictured ) you will need to remove the rod from the tube ( #3 ) Inside you will find 1 valve for compression, and the other for rebound. The compression valve is the valve located towards the bottom of the assembly. Racetech provide's a illustration with their product that is very...shall we say limited in the sense that it may be difficult for you to figure out exactly what your looking at. What it show's in that illustration is the compression dampener assembly...or, the lower valve assembly.
They offer varied setup's rated from c-33 to c-39 softer to stiffer respectively. We setup the first fork using c-33 which basically was the softest setting. After the fork was assembled, we found this to be too spongey. The second fork we built we added a couple more shims and found this gave a desireable end result in general just from compressing the fork on the deck after it was built.
The problem we encountered with the 1st fork not having any rebound dampening was simply...air. Apparently there was a rather large air bubble in the internal assembly and the fork wouldnt "pump" oil when compressed.
Something we noticed almost right away was the fact that there was very little rebound dampening, even when the fork was pumping oil. ( when I say pumping oil what I mean is when the fork is assembled, and compressed..oil will pump up to the top of the tube ( #3 ) inside the fork leg ( # 1 )
So, we tore this back apart and added some shim's to the stock rebound valve in a effort to stiffen up the rebound dampening. As of now the fork's have not yet been installed, I have to wait on a rubber for the headlight ear to put everything back together on the front end.
I am a novice with fork's, I have never torn them down and would recommend if you are lacking experience to take this photo along with you to someone who is ( triumph tech or not ) and ask for a hand. I've now had my fork's together and apart easily 1/2 dozen time's and am more than comfortable with doing this. Nothing beat's hand's on experience.
The fork goe's together just like it is numbered. The part's to the left of the lower leg from left to right go on just as they lay in the photo..in that order from closest to the tube to furtherest away...or right to left.
The cartridge ( #3 ) goe's down inside the top of the fork tube. The bolt at the end of the cartridge is what lock's this assembly into place inside the tube. It is inserted in the bottom of the lower fork leg ( #2 ) and snugged into place.
The fork spring ( #4 ) goes overtop the cartridge assembly ( #3 ) the spacer and washers go ontop of the spring in the same order...right to left.
#5 slide's into the top of the cartridge assembly, in the little tube that is outside the picture ( top of # 3 )
For my application we used racetech springs 85lb per their suggestion, and 5 weight oil.
I have tried to explain this as simply as I possibly can, hoping that someone whom has never taken fork's down before can make sense of all this.
Again, a big thank's to Thruxton-Up and Thruxtonone for being the trail-blazer's here with this mod. If anyone has any question's, or would like to correct a mistake I may have made in posting the info above please do so.
I'll make another post with final setting's and tuning note's once I get all my part's back from being powder coated, and the rubber for the headlight ear and get the bike back together.