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I have an Amal replacement tickler for my 930 on the 72 TR-6 and it came with no instructions. Anyone ever do this conversion? It basically extends the tickler so your finger doesn't get all gassed up.

TIA,
TD
 

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It seems to me that all new amal carbs come with this tickler setup. Mine did, and it works great for me.
 

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I have done a few its not hard at all. Your kit should have 4 parts top button, hollow tube, flared roll pin and a spring. Naturally you have to remove the old tickler assy.

Unfortunatley it has been a while since I did one and do a test fit before the final install. The hollow tube is installed into the carbbody where the old tickler button was the the flared roll pin is inserted up thru the tube from the underside of the carb body the spring is placed ovr the exposed pin as it exits from the tube top button is now pushed on the roll pin spring assy.

Again I am working from old memories but this is not rocket science and you will be able to get it done.
 

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I have the exact same question.
Ive just finished off a restore of my 2 Amal 930s.
I got the updated extended ticklers and am worried that once I cut off the old ones I wont be able to install the new ones properly. Looking at the 4 parts (see picture), Im having a hard time wondering how it all stays in one piece.
Can someone confirm that the 4 pieces I have are all I need and in what order do I install them?

Also, I have one more question: the main needle has 3 or 4 notches for the circlip to clip into. Does it matter which one I fit it in as long as I do the same for both carbs?

Thanks!
 

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Kev_England

The top notch will make the mixture more lean by positioning the needle further into the needle jet. Lower notches will make the mixture richer. I have been working on rebuilding my 930s and did not notice which notch the clips were in. Not sure if it was in my Clymer manual or owners manual - 1970 Bonnie - but the recommended position was 2, the middle one.

Check out Plewsy's 930 carb rebuilding video if you haven't already seen it.

http://www.triumphrat.net/vintage-t...14153-amal-930-carb-service-repair-video.html
 

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HA: thanks. Yes, theres 3 notches so I put it in the middle on. Makes sense.

Regarding the extended tickler kit: Im thinking now the existing spring should be used? But I still dont see how the larger push sleeve stays fitted-it just seems to sit on the smaller one. Im sure it will fall off when the engine is running. I must be missing something. ALso, how do I get the old tickler off - I suppose Ill have to carefully cut the center metal tube with the bottom flange on it?
 

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The instructions explain how to assemble the tickler.

As far as I can remember, (long time ago) the sleeve and the pin are interference fits into their respective holes.
So, by unsplaying the pin, it can be inserted in...then resplay it.
Or by pushing on the tickler, the splayed pin can be tapped in.
If this is wrong, I stand to be corrected.

One note, the new tickler is longer and fatter and when refitting the carbs,
there`s not a lot of room to get the washers/nuts on.
I have to initially just leave a few threads protruding, and tighten both sides gradually.
 

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The instructions explain how to assemble the tickler.

As far as I can remember, (long time ago) the sleeve and the pin are interference fits into their respective holes.
So, by unsplaying the pin, it can be inserted in...then resplay it.
Or by pushing on the tickler, the splayed pin can be tapped in.
If this is wrong, I stand to be corrected.

One note, the new tickler is longer and fatter and when refitting the carbs,
there`s not a lot of room to get the washers/nuts on.
I have to initially just leave a few threads protruding, and tighten both sides gradually.

Thanks for that Caulky,
I got the old tickler off one of the carbs with my dremel, but honestly, I see how the new extended tickler is supposed to be setup but I still havent been able to get it setup right.
I know it will be one of those things that will be so easy to do that ill be embarrased.

BTW: the new ticklers didnt come with instructions. Ill have another go in a bit...
 

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......The hollow tube is installed into the carbbody where the old tickler button was the the flared roll pin is inserted up thru the tube from the underside of the carb body the spring is placed ovr the exposed pin as it exits from the tube top button is now pushed on the roll pin spring assy.....
Sorry to beat this to death guys, but still have questions:

The flared pin comes with just one end flared, obvously -- I inset the non-flared end up thru carb body, then fit the hollow tube, then fit the spring. At this point do I then have to splay out the hollow pin to keep the spring intact? Then fit the top button (which I suppose is not somehow locked down but just sits over the top?)
THanks!
 

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I've done this on my Amals... there is a sleeve that fits into the hole where the old button used to rest - press-fit the sleeve into the hole. I lightly tapped it into place with a small hammer. Fit the flared roll-pin up through the hole and through the sleeve that is now in place in the carb body. The spring goes over the top of the roll pin that sticks up through the sleeve in the carb body. The priming button press-fits onto the non-flared end of the roll pin - the spring lives under the button to keep it - and the roll pin - in place.

If the button sticks down, or the spring will not hold the button up, the roll pin will stick downwards allowing fuel to flood the carb and possibly the cylinder.

So... looking at the sequence of parts - from bottom to top (with the carb upright):

flared end of roll pin,
carb body,
sleeve,
spring,
priming button
 

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psasack:

"The priming button press-fits onto the non-flared end of the roll pin"

That is the key!!!! Now it all makes sense. Just did one and it works.

Thank you so much!!!
 

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It takes a little doing to get the button onto the non-flared end of the roll pin - while the spring is trying to unseat the button as you're trying to seat the button...

I just carefully held the button in place with one hand and used some big vise-grips to press the button onto the roll pin.

I'm glad I could finally help someone else!
 

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Hi. I cannot figure this one out yet. Last night I tried to get the original tickler out with no success. I couldn't even squeeze the flared pin with pliers, no matter how hard I tried. I then tried pulling out the pin from the bottom, with no luck. Then tried to pull the tickler off from the top with no success. I'm re ready to just wear gloves when starting the bike....but this should not be this difficult. Pochie
 

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Sorry to beat this to death guys, but still have questions:

The flared pin comes with just one end flared, obvously -- I inset the non-flared end up thru carb body, then fit the hollow tube, then fit the spring. At this point do I then have to splay out the hollow pin to keep the spring intact? Then fit the top button (which I suppose is not somehow locked down but just sits over the top?)
THanks!
I've done this on my Amals... there is a sleeve that fits into the hole where the old button used to rest - press-fit the sleeve into the hole. I lightly tapped it into place with a small hammer. Fit the flared roll-pin up through the hole and through the sleeve that is now in place in the carb body. The spring goes over the top of the roll pin that sticks up through the sleeve in the carb body. The priming button press-fits onto the non-flared end of the roll pin - the spring lives under the button to keep it - and the roll pin - in place.

If the button sticks down, or the spring will not hold the button up, the roll pin will stick downwards allowing fuel to flood the carb and possibly the cylinder.

So... looking at the sequence of parts - from bottom to top (with the carb upright):

flared end of roll pin,
carb body,
sleeve,
spring,
priming button
I was searching for the same thing.... Sorry to sound really dumb on this. What goes where is not the issue but the sleeve. Just how deep does the sleeve go into the carb body? I am guessing it should go all the way in until seated? So once this is done how much will protrude above the carb body? It just seems a very, very tight fit I thought of giving it a smack or two with the hammer....
The other thing is I just lost one of the springs in doing a trial run... twwingggg and it was gone. Arg well I suppose that a pens spring will just have to work. To fit the priming button once assembled a smack on the top with the hammers should work if the carb body is rested on a timber work bench where the rolled pin protrudes out the bottom??? Any ideas. Thanks
 
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