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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Experts needed-3 big questions
Posted this on the other forum too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I recently purchased a 2006 Speed triple (like 4 days ago). I have three main problems that I have been researching and have been unable to find definitive answers about. I tried using the FAQ but many picture links are dead.

1. I would like pictures of the two hoses that need to be switched to fix the gas tank suction issue. I have seen lots of expired links, but thought it would be nice to see pics before I start working on it this weekend.

2. My brakes squeak. They have tons of pad life left. I tried the old 60mph squeeze with throttle to clean the rotors…still squeak. Now I assume this has to do with question number 3. If not, let me know your thoughts here.

3. What are the top fixes for the squishy brake lever that will retain the original equipment? Or if keeping the stockers is a no go, what Triumph parts do I need to request and what is the procedure for the fix, or where is a link for a DIY? My brakes seem to stop fine. A heck of lot better than my SV. But the squishy lever is irritating and it gives me the heeby-jeebies. Do any of you just leave it as is? Is there any problem with brake fade, damage to the bike?

Like I said, I have tried the search function and come up with nothing, or only partial answers. All my local dealers were closed today, but from what I have read the complimentary brake fix only applies to 05's (my serial numbers are way after those designated as "effected"). Not trying to beat a dead horse-if there is a better way to search please let me know. I appreciate any help with links, pics, or words of wisdom.
Thanks,
B
 

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1. It's possible that the hose is kinked rather than switched.
2. Earplugs help.
3. 06's were affected too. If your VIN is after those listed for the goodwill fix, it is possible you just need to change/bleed the fluid ( it's overdue if it hasn't been done yet). Otherwise, there are several recent posts on swapping over to late model GSXR calipers and radial master that will take care of the issue more affordably than the Triumph piston upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Joe,
It's funny I wore plugs until today when riding and never noticed the brakes :) Easy and cheap fix, right?

I am planning on bleeding the lines this weekend when I get some speed bleeders in. Hopefully that will do it. I am also planning to call a dealer tomorrow and see if they can pull up this bikes service history... specifically the brakes. So do a lot of people ride around with squishy brakes and have no problems? The thing stops on a dime even as is.

**As for the hose-can I please see a pic or a diagram? ** I am unclear as to which two hoses are in question. Perhaps it will be painfully clear when I lift the tank Saturday to do all the other maintenance, I just want to have as much info as possible before starting.

Thanks again.
 

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Experts needed-3 big questions
Posted this on the other forum too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I recently purchased a 2006 Speed triple (like 4 days ago). I have three main problems that I have been researching and have been unable to find definitive answers about. I tried using the FAQ but many picture links are dead.

1. I would like pictures of the two hoses that need to be switched to fix the gas tank suction issue. I have seen lots of expired links, but thought it would be nice to see pics before I start working on it this weekend.

2. My brakes squeak. They have tons of pad life left. I tried the old 60mph squeeze with throttle to clean the rotors…still squeak. Now I assume this has to do with question number 3. If not, let me know your thoughts here.

3. What are the top fixes for the squishy brake lever that will retain the original equipment? Or if keeping the stockers is a no go, what Triumph parts do I need to request and what is the procedure for the fix, or where is a link for a DIY? My brakes seem to stop fine. A heck of lot better than my SV. But the squishy lever is irritating and it gives me the heeby-jeebies. Do any of you just leave it as is? Is there any problem with brake fade, damage to the bike?

Like I said, I have tried the search function and come up with nothing, or only partial answers. All my local dealers were closed today, but from what I have read the complimentary brake fix only applies to 05's (my serial numbers are way after those designated as "effected"). Not trying to beat a dead horse-if there is a better way to search please let me know. I appreciate any help with links, pics, or words of wisdom.
Thanks,
B
possible answer for issue number 1: it could be the 'pitcock valve' that is blocked. Best thing to do is replace it. It's the plastic "doo-hickey" (expert in action here) that you will notice between the fuel overflow tube that is one of the tubes that goes down the left side of the bike. item number 19 in the pic. Bike bandit or your local dealer can be a source for one. In the meanwhile to stop the vacuum, simply take it off, it's there to stop fuel leakage if you were to drop your bike but you can remove it for a spell just to verify if this is the cause of the vacuum problem. It's cheap, quick and easy to remove and replace.



issue number 2: change the pads?

issue number 3: I had the squishy brake problem, it never affected the braking ability but I know what you mean. There is a caliper piston seal kit that is used to address the issue. Speak to your local dealer to see about having it done. I dont know how plausible it would be to gave a "good faith fix" done to it as it has been for a number of folks when this solution first became available but it wouldnt hurt to ask about the possibility. If you are a handy type of fellow, perhaps you can offer to purchase the "fix it kit" and do it yourself? Again, they were replacement caliper piston seals that were the solution.

I'm no expert so anyone with an other opinion feel free to chime in.

good luck.
 

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i can give you a process to definitively answer #1:

1) remove the seat.
2) remove the two short allen screws, one on each side of the tank, holding the side body panels to the tank.
3) loosen the allen that holds the front of the tank to the frame. You don't have to take it all the way out - just very loose.
4) using the 8 and 10 mm, loosen and remove the bolt that holds down the back of the tank.
5) lift the rear of the tank up about 6"(remember, you've got that front allen holding the front of the tank) and look underneath.
6) you'll see the bottom plate of the tank with the fuel line and fuel pump connection in the center, two brass fittings to the left of this plate, each with a rubber hose pressed on.
7) these are the fuel tank overflow and vent fittings. make sure the one on the left (farthest from the plate) has the hose with the disc valve in it (about 10" down the hose) and the other fitting has the plain hose.

both lines just run down the side of the engine with the coolant overflow to drain on the street.

service manual does not show which line is which, only to mark them for proper reattachment.
 

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Thanks. #19 is being pulled this weekend. Maybe tonight if I can find it in the dark :) Am I losing it? Does Bike Bandit offer S3 parts? I am not seeing it here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/triumph-motorcycle-parts-2006/oem-parts
Look under the 2007 bike. I dont know why but when the 2009's came out Bike Bandit stopped having entries and info for the 2005 and 2006's. The 2007's are mechanical clones of the 2006's so no biggie.

Again, I'm no expert and for all I know J3ff is a certified master mechanic and I mean no disrespect at all but before going through all that just remove the pitcock valve. It takes 10-seconds blindfolded with one hand tied behind your back while submerged in a vat of boiling oil with some masochist tickling your foot with a feather. It's that fast and easy and quite likely the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the hep with the fuel issue guys-looks like an easy fix. why are all the other posts so convoluted?
I will take care of it as soon as I can get home from work before dark. My garage has crumby lighting so it's a no-go tonight.
--I will try to fix the brakes by bleeding them when I get the speed bleeders. If that is all it is I will post a freakin happy dance on youtube... say I won't :D
 

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7) these are the fuel tank overflow and vent fittings. make sure the one on the left (farthest from the plate) has the hose with the disc valve in it (about 10" down the hose) and the other fitting has the plain hose.
At least on '07 this is incorrect. It is easy to determine by blowing into the holes in tank opening (use short piece of plastic tube to insert into opening). Breather tube (with valve) goes on the inside nipple, overflow on the outside (closer to left side of bike).
Brakes even on '07 - which supposedly had "fix" already applied - still require long pull on lever. This could be temporarily cured by taking calipers off and pushing pistons in (good for next 1000 miles). You can live with it, better option is to upgrade to GSXR calipers/mc.

BTW, I would not advise to lift rear of the tank while front bolt is still in place - even with rubber mounting it is bending force applied to it. It is not hard to remove the bolt.
 

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Brakes even on '07 - which supposedly had "fix" already applied - still require long pull on lever. This could be temporarily cured by taking calipers off and pushing pistons in (good for next 1000 miles). You can live with it, better option is to upgrade to GSXR calipers/mc.
I guess i don't have much to compain about the stock brakes. Even if the pull is "long" for some of you, most of my miles racked up prior to the S3 were on a dual sport bike with drum's in the front.... i could litteraly pull the leverl all the way in and never fear for locking up the front end, so with the speedy i feel spoiled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again for all the advice. Glad to hear that others have the same brake lever travel issue...I mean...not glad...but relieved it is just one of the quirks of this bike. The bike stops with just a little pressure, it's just the fact that I could pull the lever back until it hits my CRGs mounting point. I am eager to learn about this bike. It is shockingly different from my SV650, 600r, or anything else I have had. It took me half an hour to figure out how to adjust the chain. :rolleyes: After I have time to work on some of this stuff I will post results.

PS-Thanks for the tank advice Bohdan. That plastic tank gives my nightmares.
 

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At least on '07 this is incorrect. It is easy to determine by blowing into the holes in tank opening (use short piece of plastic tube to insert into opening). Breather tube (with valve) goes on the inside nipple, overflow on the outside (closer to left side of bike).
i have an '07, (plastic tank) and this is the correct application for my machine.

don't know what VIN denoted the change, but i can assure you mine is set up this way and this cured the pressure problem.

frankly, i cut and pasted the rest of the instructions from the other site to be helpful. you can just as easily chase the tubes with the tank in place, but it gives you no visual reference.

i think the original poster suggested leaving the front bolt in-place so that the tank did not accidentally fall off during a one man operation.
 

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i have an '07, (plastic tank) and this is the correct application for my machine.

don't know what VIN denoted the change, but i can assure you mine is set up this way and this cured the pressure problem.
J3ff, these 2 tubes are: open one (for drainage of tank opening) and another one with tipover valve (breather). If switching them around cured your problem, it means that you have moved tube without valve to breather (so you opened the tube - similar to removal of valve) and one with valve to drain side. So now you have blocked drainage tube... You won't notice until the water gets there.
You can check it for yourself with the method I've described - blow at top, hold hand under nipple (or tube bottom) and you'll find out.
 

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1. Been answered (I think)
2. Normal. I have never owned a sportbike that didn't have brakes that squeaked, at least a little.
3. Get a Brembo master cylinder. First upgrade to brakes would normally be stainless steel lines; Triumph already has that covered. Pads actually make a huge difference too, but the Brembo master cylinder will be the most noticeable difference. So get a 19x18 or the new adjustable one (I don't know if there's a Triumph application for the new one, one that works with the brake light wiring. It should be universal).
 

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J3ff, these 2 tubes are: open one (for drainage of tank opening) and another one with tipover valve (breather). If switching them around cured your problem, it means that you have moved tube without valve to breather (so you opened the tube - similar to removal of valve) and one with valve to drain side. So now you have blocked drainage tube... You won't notice until the water gets there.
You can check it for yourself with the method I've described - blow at top, hold hand under nipple (or tube bottom) and you'll find out.
thanks, bohdan; will do. i appreciate the follow up.

quick question: i made the switch, but i am still puzzled by one thing: the valve assembly (black plastic with disc-like middle) has an arrow on it. the arrow is pointing up, towards the tank. is this correct, or should this one-way valve be pointing down, to evacuate the drainage, but not allow anything back up into the tank?

cheers

j3ff
 

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The valve has arrow to point which end is UP when mounted on vertically hanging tube. Its purpose is to allow air flow in order to equalize pressure between tank inside and atmosphere, but to prevent fuel spill when bike is down (hence -> "tipover valve"). Read explanation provided by Martin here.
 

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The valve has arrow to point which end is UP when mounted on vertically hanging tube. Its purpose is to allow air flow in order to equalize pressure between tank inside and atmosphere, but to prevent fuel spill when bike is down (hence -> "tipover valve"). Read explanation provided by Martin here.
got it; makes perfect sense when explained in this manner.

thanks, again, for the insight.


cheers

j3ff
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tank issued fixed (just unclogged the tip over valve) :)
Brakes fixed (bled them and did the piston push), this also removed the squeak at stops:)
Thanks again for the help folks.

Planning an oil change and coolant this weekend.
 

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Tank issued fixed (just unclogged the tip over valve) :)
Brakes fixed (bled them and did the piston push), this also removed the squeak at stops:)
Thanks again for the help folks.

Planning an oil change and coolant this weekend.
Cool, I thought it would be the pitcock valve, it's not a new issue. You might want to replace it though, although you unblocked it the problem may return, it's something a wiser man than myself advised when mine got blocked ages ago. It doesnt cost much at all.
 

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2. try 3m brake clean on the rotors and a wipe down with a clean shop cloth.
 
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