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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've searched and found a few topics on this. I removed my canister and just left the hoses hang except the hose hanging from the solenoid. I removed the hose from the solenoid but left the solenoid in place. From what I've read and have interpreted is that this is ok to do. I did not plug anything off. I'm under the impression the only line needing plugged would be the hose into the solenoid from the tank if the solenoid has been removed.
Can someone just confirm that removing the canister and letting the hoses hang, is ok. MacBandit I believe in another thread on this you stated this was ok but just want you to confirm.

Thanks
 

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The purge valve opens to allow the manifold to suck the vapors out of the canister. If you don't cap the suction side of the purge valve, unfiltered air will be sucked into the engine when the valve opens. If you pull the manifold hose from the valve and dont plug it, unfiltered air will be sucked into the engine all the time........unless I'm wrong.
 

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Yes it does suck through the solenoid but it's very little. If you don't want to cap inlets at the throttle bodies at this point the best thing would be to remove the solenoid and stick a screw into the hose that was attached to it. To ensure the screw is sealed you could add some silicone or zip tie the hose around the screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it does suck through the solenoid but it's very little. If you don't want to cap inlets at the throttle bodies at this point the best thing would be to remove the solenoid and stick a screw into the hose that was attached to it. To ensure the screw is sealed you could add some silicone or zip tie the hose around the screw.
Could you just cap the solenoid opening at the bottom? I keep reading that some people get an indication of some sort when they remove and unplug the solenoid. Some do not as well.

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I capped the valve and left it on because I seemed easiest. Never unplugged the wires to see what happened. Try it before you remove the valve. You can always connect it in again if you get a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I capped the valve and left it on because I seemed easiest. Never unplugged the wires to see what happened. Try it before you remove the valve. You can always connect it in again if you get a code.
Cool Thanks. I'm fine leaving the solenoid. And if plugging the port coming out of the bottom of the solenoid will work then that's what I will do. And of course I will leave it electrically connected. Thanks.
 

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Can I ask the question of how did you remove it?

Are there a couple of screws underneath the plastic under tail that I'm missing?

Or is it even simpler of a couple of clamps or clips that I just don't know how to undo?

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can I ask the question of how did you remove it?

Are there a couple of screws underneath the plastic under tail that I'm missing?

Or is it even simpler of a couple of clamps or clips that I just don't know how to undo?

Thanks
My canister was at the lowest point on the bike. Below the Swingarm on the opposite side of the exhaust that runs under the bike. Two 10mm bolts hold the canister which need removed. Then two bolts that hold the metal bracket for which the canister is mounted to. One being a 10mm again and the other requiring an Allen wrench. Pretty easy. Then just zip tie all the drain lines.
 

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My canister was at the lowest point on the bike. Below the Swingarm on the opposite side of the exhaust that runs under the bike. Two 10mm bolts hold the canister which need removed. Then two bolts that hold the metal bracket for which the canister is mounted to. One being a 10mm again and the other requiring an Allen wrench. Pretty easy. Then just zip tie all the drain lines.
I may be either thinking of a different canister or you have a different year bike.

2013. The black box looking thing under the seat?

Is that not what you're talking about?
 

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Can I ask the question of how did you remove it?

Are there a couple of screws underneath the plastic under tail that I'm missing?

Or is it even simpler of a couple of clamps or clips that I just don't know how to undo?

Thanks
Yes you have to remove the bolts from under the canister on the '13+ models.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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I don't get it..... That canister doesn't weigh very much and it's about the same volume as an electric razor. Maybe you're gonna fit your "carry piece" under there although it might take a moment or two to unlock the seat and remove it to get at the piece if you need it!!
 

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Do a little research,some have had issues after removing the canister on the new models.
No problems here. I removed mine to make the Daytona tail/seat conversion easier. We blocked off one of the lines, from the solenoid, I believe, and left the tank line just vent to atmosphere.
 
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