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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

Thinking about heated grips for a Crimble stocking filler but I'm a bit concerned that using the twin headlights and heated grips will be too much for the charging system and battery. Any of you guys got experience of where the current limit is on 03 Tiger? I don't want to have to sit at 6000 rpm just to keep the battery charged.

Graeme.
 

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My 03 has the fitted grips from the factory, and I did the twin headlight relay thing a month or 2 ago. When I did that, I put a multimeter across the battery with main beam on and the grips on full, and was showing the best part of 14V at fast tickover (the engine was cold). So, no prob running both on mine, I would have thought you would be ok, but I bow to the greater knowledge and understanding of elastictrickery by those who are about to write something below here.........
 

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I think you should be fine :wink:

I run twin headlamps, factory heated grips *and* a heated jacket off my tiger and have had no problems thus far.

Which is more than I can say for my ickle GPz500 which tends not to be able to meet the same power requirements. Luckily it hasn't got fancy fuel injection and can be bump started when required!
 

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You won't have any problem with the battery. However, I find the Triumph heated grips on my Tiger to be wimpy. I have a seat of Oxford Heaterz grips on the Scrambler and they beat the pants off the ones on the Tiger. No way to turn them up all the way without burning your hands.

Fred
 

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On 2006-12-01 13:23, pigpen955 wrote:
You won't have any problem with the battery. However, I find the Triumph heated grips on my Tiger to be wimpy. I have a seat of Oxford Heaterz grips on the Scrambler and they beat the pants off the ones on the Tiger. No way to turn them up all the way without burning your hands.

Fred
I don't want to hijack but I have found the original equipment heated grips to be very good on both the settings. Maybe Maine we have a problem :razz:

Back on track.....be careful, if you go down the "2-headlights-on-at-once" route, that you make sure that they are OFF when stopping for your ablutions or coffee. I have heard it on good authority that the battery flattens very quickly and you will have to bump start with the help of good friends but soon to be ex-good friends if you do it continuously :???:

Hay who would be that stupid :)

Paul
 

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But surely if you turn off the ignition they go off on their own.

Not wanting to start another kill switch vs ignition switch debate.

And BTW my heated grips seem warm enough.

[ This message was edited by: iansoady on 2006-12-03 05:58 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I already find that if the battery isn't 100% charged then starting is nearly impossible, the twin lights just bleed power away. If I leave the bike 10 days or more then it won't start without first charging the battery, and that's with a new one (yes, trickle charged before fitting). Has anyone looked at breaking into the loom to fit a switch that allows the lights to be switched off? It would help starting no end.

Graeme.
 

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On 2006-12-03 13:57, ShereKhan wrote:
I already find that if the battery isn't 100% charged then starting is nearly impossible, the twin lights just bleed power away. If I leave the bike 10 days or more then it won't start without first charging the battery, and that's with a new one (yes, trickle charged before fitting). Has anyone looked at breaking into the loom to fit a switch that allows the lights to be switched off? It would help starting no end.

Graeme.
Do you have an alarm fitted? Mine does the same with a Datatool series 3.
 

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It would be worth disconnecting the negative battery terminal and connecting an ammeter (on a milliamp setting) between the terminal and the lead with ignition switched off. It should show virtually no reading. If there is a reading it means that something is allowing current to leak - perhaps the rectifier / regulator.

People have talked about this happening if incorrect headlight relays are fitted but I think this is only if they have an incorrect pin layout.
 

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Has anyone looked at breaking into the loom to fit a switch that allows the lights to be switched off? It would help starting no end.
No need - Triumph have already done this right from the factory; the headlamps and heated grips are automatically switched off when the starter motor is active.

Next time you go to start your bike, press the starter button without first holding the clutch lever in - you'll hear a click from a relay and the headlamps will cut out. Triumph did this to make sure maximum power goes to the starter.
 
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