Currently working on a 1998 daytona 955, everything that could go wrong with this bike has. Right now ive got myself a broken exhaust camshaft and found a craigslist post for a 2000 sprint 955 complete engine for sale. Will the sprint engine fit in the '98 properly?? From what I can tell by photos the 2 engins look exactaly the same, any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
engine swap, need help
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Thank u so much, I have ripped out almost all of my hair trying to find an answer to this question all day, even the triumph dealerships in florida had absolutely no clue. About running the different map, I am very mechanically inclined when it comes to bikes and cars, but electrically, im completely in the dark (doesnt make a whole lot of sense seeing as how im a journeyman electrician, lol) how do I go about the re-mapping and tuning? Is there a special plug I need to buy to hook the brain box up to a computer?
Go to the ECU tuning subforum and read about TuneECU. It's freeware that allows you to run diagnostics, tests and to alter your mapping or to load a different map. You will need an OBD II cable to hook up your bike to a laptop with the downloaded TuneECU program. You can purchase the cable on Ebay. It's all explained in the TuneECU thread.
Check out this thread and scroll down to view a video of TuneECU. http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-deliberations/221271-so-i-just-bought-it-but-how-to-remap.html
Check out this thread and scroll down to view a video of TuneECU. http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-deliberations/221271-so-i-just-bought-it-but-how-to-remap.html
So I got the 2000 Sprint 955i engine, and just as i suspected it was a perfect fit. only difference was the front sprocket but thats easily fixed.The problem I am having now though is the re-mapping, the daytona has a sagem ecu, which i believe is compatable. The map I downloaded was for the '99 speed triple (map 9897) like instructed, and i have gotten the bike to start up and run a couple times, but it was very difficult to do so. After running for about 10 to 15 minutes at complete idle the bike completely dies, no low idle then slow die, just a complete dead stop like the kill switch was pressed. Now i have 0.000 values across the board on my injector pulses, so i took out the injecors to inspect them and with the gas tank hooked up i get no fuel spray out of the injectors. Upon inspection of the map i noticed the F-trim and I-trim maps are at complete 0 across the entire map. Have i done something wrong while running the tune ECU program or is it supposed to look like that? Also, on the test page my Idle Fuel Trim is set to 62.5 and the IACV is at 28, these values seem very high to me, are they correct? No means of transportation at this time until this frankenstien of a bike is back on the road, thank u guys for any help u can give.
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F trim & I trim maps should be zero - those would be for trims from stock
IACV is about right - between 20 - 35 is good starting position
The idle fuel trim seems HUGE however - how did that get way up there?
(just installing map should not do that)
set that to something like 8 - 10 to begin with - it really needs to be set when connected to exhaust analyzer for about 3% CO
I'm not sure how you are testing injectors - you will get no spray unless you are cranking engine?
The reason I advised to use that Speed Triple Map is that has the correct 'base' and should be compatible for the 955 injectors though 2001 MY
There is also the 9888 map which is for Sprint 955 with the older Sagem MC2000 ECM - but that would have a different 'base' for the Sprint.
You can also try that one & see how it runs - but you might get CEL with that one
(If it runs better you can always just copy the tables - all of them - to the S3 base map.
Incidentally - what type of exhaust do you have? you can try the two 'TORS' maps for the S3 - 9898 or 9899.
But that CO (idel fuel trim adjust) needs to be addressed regardless!
IACV is about right - between 20 - 35 is good starting position
The idle fuel trim seems HUGE however - how did that get way up there?
(just installing map should not do that)
set that to something like 8 - 10 to begin with - it really needs to be set when connected to exhaust analyzer for about 3% CO
I'm not sure how you are testing injectors - you will get no spray unless you are cranking engine?
The reason I advised to use that Speed Triple Map is that has the correct 'base' and should be compatible for the 955 injectors though 2001 MY
There is also the 9888 map which is for Sprint 955 with the older Sagem MC2000 ECM - but that would have a different 'base' for the Sprint.
You can also try that one & see how it runs - but you might get CEL with that one
(If it runs better you can always just copy the tables - all of them - to the S3 base map.
Incidentally - what type of exhaust do you have? you can try the two 'TORS' maps for the S3 - 9898 or 9899.
But that CO (idel fuel trim adjust) needs to be addressed regardless!
Injectors are firing properly (human error, pulled the plug just below the front sprocket and forgot to reattach it) oddly enough i attempted the download of the 9888 map, engine turned several times, but didnt fully start, so just out of curiosity i downloaded the daytona 955 map, 9894, bike started up immediately, so freaking happy....until it dead stopped. this has happened a few times now while running the engine idle for any longer than 10-15 minutes. There is a terrible knocking noise in the top end of the engine, i noticed this when the engine was first installed but thought nothing of it, but heres what im thinking--
When i opened the lid for the head i noticed there was not a whole lot of oil in the head, got me thinking that maybe the oil in there is remaining from the person i got the engine from and in fact the oil pump is no longer opperating properly and is not cirrculating oil into the head, which is where the knocking is coming from. If the head has low oil levels in it will it knock baddly? Moving forward in my train of thought, the engine runs for roughly 10-15 minutes (knocking the entire time) If no oil is cirrculating because the oil pump is bad would the pistons get so hot that they actually "freeze up" while in motion and cut the bike off? I have removed the oil pump from the old 1998 daytona engine which i know opperates correctly and i am in the process of removing the sprint engines oil pump, is there a way to remove this pump without dropping the engine?
btw DEcosse, i dont believe this is an aftermarket exhaust, im also not sure what the stock one looks like, there is no name on the exhaust (ie: two brothers, yoshi, ect.) the can is all carbon fiber material...also there is a nameplate on the pipe that says "NOT FOR ROAD USE" kinda thought that was funny when i read it, lol
When i opened the lid for the head i noticed there was not a whole lot of oil in the head, got me thinking that maybe the oil in there is remaining from the person i got the engine from and in fact the oil pump is no longer opperating properly and is not cirrculating oil into the head, which is where the knocking is coming from. If the head has low oil levels in it will it knock baddly? Moving forward in my train of thought, the engine runs for roughly 10-15 minutes (knocking the entire time) If no oil is cirrculating because the oil pump is bad would the pistons get so hot that they actually "freeze up" while in motion and cut the bike off? I have removed the oil pump from the old 1998 daytona engine which i know opperates correctly and i am in the process of removing the sprint engines oil pump, is there a way to remove this pump without dropping the engine?
btw DEcosse, i dont believe this is an aftermarket exhaust, im also not sure what the stock one looks like, there is no name on the exhaust (ie: two brothers, yoshi, ect.) the can is all carbon fiber material...also there is a nameplate on the pipe that says "NOT FOR ROAD USE" kinda thought that was funny when i read it, lol
yeah, CO setting is now at 10.2, bike cranked up almost instantly at this setting with the daytona 955 map. oil pressure light kept rapidly flashing the entire time the bike was running. didnt stay steady on or steady off, just quick flashing.
I will say, getting to the fuel pump to change it out seems like a MASSIVE job if the engine is already mounted. Im now taking the oil pan off to first check the filter inside there, hoping its a simple clog, if thats not it then i will try taking the oil feed line off the head and try cranking the engine to see if any oil travels through the line, I have an extra line so if changing it doesnt work then i guess im stuck with changing the pump 
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Put the s3 map back in now that you have addressed the fuel trim
I'm suspecting you may have done something wrong with the oil cooler hook-up? Did you possibly crimp one of the hard lines?
Or motor just pos from get-go
Did you get some history on it from seller?
Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
I'm suspecting you may have done something wrong with the oil cooler hook-up? Did you possibly crimp one of the hard lines?
Or motor just pos from get-go
Did you get some history on it from seller?
Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
cant really take a sellers word for anything cause they are out to make money and sell the part. but the info i did get was that the engine ran perfectly in the sprint it came from with no issues at all, 20,xxx miles, all servicing was up to date.
update: removed oil pan and found it FULL of a silver colored mud like substance, oil filter was full as well. Is there a possibility that this silver mud ran through to the oil pump and caused it to burn up and no longer work, or would the filter have caught the substance first and just not let the oil to flow to the pump...but if the pump never recieved any oil to flow through it is there a chance it could have burned out due to running dry?
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Pump is before the filter
You cannot 'burn up' the pump per se; more likely the filter clogged is what stopped your oil flow to the engine components
The pump would probably even pump 'sludge' but when the filter clogged, the pressure relief valve would go off bypassing filter back to sump.
If it was indeed starved, engine is probably in bad shape and judging by the knocking sure already seems that way.
You might be able to clean out the sump and pump etc, but if engine was starved, no recovery from that.
Did you not consider to start with fresh oil & filter before you started anyway?
Think you need a word with the seller ...........
You cannot 'burn up' the pump per se; more likely the filter clogged is what stopped your oil flow to the engine components
The pump would probably even pump 'sludge' but when the filter clogged, the pressure relief valve would go off bypassing filter back to sump.
If it was indeed starved, engine is probably in bad shape and judging by the knocking sure already seems that way.
You might be able to clean out the sump and pump etc, but if engine was starved, no recovery from that.
Did you not consider to start with fresh oil & filter before you started anyway?
Think you need a word with the seller ...........
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3,434 Posts
rick311, It reads like the Sprint engine siezed due to oil starvation, but I'm sure you realize that already. I've not heard or read of a camshaft breaking, which makes me wonder if the oil clooler is flowing oil. Did the original engine run? If so you may try swapping the Sprint camshafts into the Daytona engine, you'll have to set clearances, but you have plenty of shims now and may not need more. Double check the camshaft chain and tensioner too.
Even without a warranty on the Sprint's engine, the seller may have some liability in your state, but first you'll have to prove that your work and nothing on the bike caused the replacement engine to fail.
Brad
Even without a warranty on the Sprint's engine, the seller may have some liability in your state, but first you'll have to prove that your work and nothing on the bike caused the replacement engine to fail.
Brad
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