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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 Daytona (5k miles)and my daily afternoon commute (Boston)has a choke point that makes us creep and stop for five to ten minutes, sometimes more. The fan does its thing, cooling from 219 back to 213, repeat. After this standing, I loose a cylinder or two between idle until about 3k rpm when revving it to get moving. I have to rev it to 4k to get all cylinders firing to get underway. The idle is always fine, so only when I start the revs to engage the clutch will I know if all cylinders will be firing, let clutch out, nope, more throttle, slip till I match the slow crawl. I glare to the cage drivers, "Are you not entertained?" I don't really, I just try to get away as smoothly as possible to minimize embarrassment to the breed. This just started happening in the last month with the warmer weather. This will be my first summer with the bike, so I don't know if the previous owner had the problem. I put in a new Yuasa agm battery last week because I thought it might be a tired battery (and new 2CT's, thanks for the reviews). Bike has the map and exhaust it came with. Problem will go away with 5 miles of open road, or if staying in traffic, persist until I get home. On another bike, my first thought is a bad coil, but we have three of them and that would mean two of them have the problem. At its worst, it felt like it ran on one cylinder until the revs crossed 3 or 3.5. Any suggestions where to start looking?
Thanks,
Doug
 

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Sounds like the plugs are showing their age, the mapping is rich at idle, and/or its just plain too hot.

Some good remedies would be engine ice, new plugs, manual fan switch (I'm doing mine soon)

Almost every bike I've owned hates traffic jams with a passion, especially my Buells
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Malott. I'll do the plugs this weekend as a start. It was almost 90 in Boston today and that intersection was a fifteen minute affair just baking and the missing started five minutes into it. I pulled over to the side to let it cool for twenty minutes then finished the traffic jam.
Its such a great bike otherwise. The service department,Triumph in Sommerville, says I have a recall service I can have done for the fuel tank fittings, so I'll stop putting that off and see if they think they can repair it (after I've done the plugs and electrical connection checks.) If you think it runs lean on the stock map with high temps making it worse, do they have maps for use with the stock can which are richer? Is there a map you ask for?
 

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Doug, Maybe a plug or a coil. Measure the resistance of all three coils, the place in a 150 degree oven for about 20 minutes and measure again. A bit of a disclaimer...I haven't tried this with a coil on plug style coil, but it worked with my Z1 coils to find one breaking down when hot.

Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fixed it, wasn't what I expected

I figure I'd post what the culprit was for this problem of running on two cylinders in bumper to bumper traffic in summer heat.

Spark plug cavity no. 1 had an inch or so of (rusty) water in it. The OBD codes were P0351 and P1351, coil fault and coil lead short to ground. I'm guessing that when the water boiled it got high enough to start shorting things.

I was pretty glum about the water for a while because I thought I thought it was coolant and bike was doomed. I looked at the diagrams in the service manual and didn't see the coolant passages anywhere near the socket seal, so I even thought for a while it was a casting flaw making a new route to the socket. Then I look on this forum and there's a couple of posts about the coil stick seal letting water in and I'm all happy again. There's even a part number for better seals!

Bike runs perfectly now through that dang five to ten minute bumper to bumper choke point.
 
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