Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Forum,
I'm looking for info from anyone who may have experianced the following intermitant noise in thier speedmaster.....
Best assessment is that it occurs before the enigne is up to temperature, typically within the first five miles of travel. Occurs during pull out (first gear), when you are traveling through the friction zone of the clutch. (ex. moving forward in traffic when the light changes)
The sound is a metal on metal screech. Simular to a disk brake sound when you let brakes "slide" on a hill. I have had the local Triumph dealer check it twice but they haven't found the noise. (the bike was warm at the time).
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Tali

2005 "speedmonster"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Are you sure the noise is coming from the clutch ? The rear caliper is close enough to be the source. I would inspect the entire area before taking off the primary cover. The clutch is in oil and should not make a dry sound. Checked cable for adjustment ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts
Sounds like you might be riding a Ducati by mistake!

If you are sure it is a triumph, make sure that the oil level is correct as a wet clutch shouldn't make noise like that.

-----------------
see my wicked speedmaster
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The oil level is good and the clutch cable is fine. The clutch may not be the noise. The rear brake was ruled out as the noise happens when I'm not using the rear brake. Guess it will remain a mystery till something breaks or it makes the noise for the mechanic. Thanks for the input.
Tali
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,598 Posts
Don't rule the brake out just because it happens when you aren't using it. The brake pads usually contact the disc a little even when they aren't being used. To confirm that, try putting the bike on a lift and turn the wheel by hand. Chances are you'll hear some contact whether or not thats where the noise you hear is coming from i don't know, tho it is still the possible source even when they aren't being used. I would check the pads to be safe becayse it could be the pads are worn to the metal. Mine went at 6k and at least one other said thiers went at 3k !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
My rear brake was changed at around 6k. I thought it was just my driving, turns out speedies eat thier rear brake. My first thought was that the brake was the problem. The dealer checked it out extensively and said no. Because the bike is still under warrenty till June 07 I will have the dealer go over the bike during this winters down time.
When the mystery gets solved I'll post it, just incase any one else runs across it.
Thanks
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,598 Posts
Have you tried putting it on a lift and rotating the wheels? Could be something simple that might show itself there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
My rear brake was changed at around 6k.
Was the entire caliper changed or just the pads? You might check to see if the pad clips are there and in the proper position and that the pads are seated in the clips. I don't think it's possible that a clip could be dragging on the disk but it's worth a look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Yes, a spring clip can drag on the rotor cause I just had it happen. It was the spring under the mount bracket, not the pads spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Tali, Sounds like your clutch may be out of adjustment. Too much free play on the grip handle.
Or possibly, did you recently change over to a higher tooth front sprocket? I have heard guys mention here that after switching over to a 18 or 19 tooth they experienced a little clutch chatter when pulling out. Solution, don't let it slip so much. A little more throttle & let it out faster. Hope that either one of these two may help a little.

Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the tips. I'll double check it on the lift, previously there was only slight hiss from minor pad contact.
No new sproket.
Today I took it to work, no noise, ran beautifully.
It's currently in the forties and dropping in western PA. Hopefuly tomarrow is not too cold. My car is in the shop, the tail pipe rusted out becuase the car sits all summer long!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Hey, I do not know how many miles you have on your Speedy but on mine, the same thing was happening and it turned out to be warn sprockets.....new chain and sprockets and "wamo" problem solved........this was at 16K miles....yes I know, pushing it on the usable chain and sprocket life but .
The chain was jumping on the drive sprocket....sounded like a tranny problem........ :-D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I currently have 13,ooo ish on my bike. I will take a close look at the front sprocket, chain, rear sproket in the next couple weeks. Holidays interfering with how much quality time I can spend with my speedmonster.
If it is do for a new sproket/chain what's the current performance changes folks are seeing with changing the teeth # on the sprockets???
Tali
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Mine made a noise right before the clutch froze up. The lockup was casued by the shift pin that rotated out of position. Thed ealer also found a loose clutch basket, but can't say for sure if it ad anything to do with the lockup. Anyway, they put it all back together & it's been fine for 2K miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
cut a piece of garden hose 2-3' long to use as a stethoscope.
lift the bike in cold conditions and someone work the clutch with rear brake on to ensure load, while the other isolate the source of the screech.

the squeal associated with brakes is usually glazing (from heat) from aggressive use...and the vibration set up from loose shoes/pads...the solution is rough the surface with sandpaper to break the glaze... like honing a cylinder for new rings.

since this is a wet clutch, glazing shouldn't be the issue...it sounds loose, spring or thrust washer broken, or degenerated fiber disc.

after the hose stethoscope diagnosis, drain and check your oil for debris or contamination.

the thermal intermitant nature of it is odd.

if it indeed turns out to be rear brake caliper, change the hydraulic fluid...it may be water condensed at the piston making a rough spot...and lightly rough the disc for glazing.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top