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....I installed a dynojet jet kit that came with two sets of jets and new needles...
Did the kit make a big, noticeable difference, and if so do you have a part/order number for it? Thanks :).
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I forgot to ask. You said the drop in power hits at 70 mph around 5k rpms. What about in the lower gears?
Does the problem still exist when you can it in first or second gear? Probably the funnest diiagnostic test I can reccomend.:D
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Yes it does this "stuttering" at the same rpm, in any gear.

Everyone else, I'll try to dig up the invoice from the repair shop when I get back and post the part #'s replaced.
 

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I'll have to look in the garage when I get home for the part number but a search on ebay is how I found mine. And yes it runs great. Pulls like a train. After reading that your motor bogs in every gear it leads me to think this its due to your jets being too small. I got my jet kit for about 90.00. I'll see if I can find the reciept from the seller. Do you have a K&n filter installed yet? If not it may be worth it while you have the airbox off.

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Discussion Starter #24
Randommech nailed it with jet sizes. Not too small, causing fuel starvation....just the opposite. Previous owner(s) must have jetted it, but put 110's on #1 and #3....left a 90 on #2?????? So, engine is getting too much fuel and stock airbox can't compensate.

Wouldn't it be nice to know everything about a bike bought used? *sigh*
 

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Yeah, 110's are a bit too big. Sorry I haven't posted the dynojet part number for you yet. I couldn't find it in the garage. I'll post it when I find it. So is the bike running smooth now?

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeah, 110's are a bit too big. Sorry I haven't posted the dynojet part number for you yet. I couldn't find it in the garage. I'll post it when I find it. So is the bike running smooth now?

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Haven't gotten to ride it yet.....weather and rheumatoid arthritis (ugh).
Looking forward to giving it a go next weekend.

What air setup are you running?
 

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I'm running a stock airbox with a K&N filter and Tors. I'll probably be switching to a 19 tooth front sprocket also to take advantage of the high torqure these motors have.

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I think i could have the same problem Tburd97.
Today i chanced 104 dynojet main jets. Now i need to decide witch one to put. Pod filters or K&N regular filter witch i allredy own. Its just that i hate the airbox.
 

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Jannari,
I haven't messed with the removing the carbs or anything, but I have assembled a bunch of parts for upgrades this winter if I can ever quit riding.
I did buy K&N pod filters, RC-0983, which is a set of 3 filters, oval cone shaped. And a K&N 62-1320, which is the crankcase vent filter. I have also bought jets to rejet for the upgrades I'm planning. To me, and from the folks I've talked to, the pods are the way to go.

Also, a little language note...
It's " change" not "chance". You change jets. Chance is similar to fate.
Not trying to be picky. I just thought you might like to know.

I wish I could be more help with the carbs, but I haven't worked on them yet.
 

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Jannari,
I haven't messed with the removing the carbs or anything, but I have assembled a bunch of parts for upgrades this winter if I can ever quit riding.
I did buy K&N pod filters, RC-0983, which is a set of 3 filters, oval cone shaped. And a K&N 62-1320, which is the crankcase vent filter. I have also bought jets to rejet for the upgrades I'm planning. To me, and from the folks I've talked to, the pods are the way to go.

Also, a little language note...
It's " change" not "chance". You change jets. Chance is similar to fate.
Not trying to be picky. I just thought you might like to know.

I wish I could be more help with the carbs, but I haven't worked on them yet.
Heheh! Thanks for the grammar. "Change" yep chance yep i actually know that word too now that i stop and think. It means opportunity allso.

I have now thought that i just might put regular k&n filter in the airbox and not do any modifications to the box. Irish mike told me that 104 mains are perhaps too rich for that setup. I have Old meriden triumphs exhaust. its not straight throw but loud. About under 100 DB. there is something on the way if you try to look through the silencer. I still have the carbs out so it would be easy to change it to 102 dynojet main. if that is leaner, i dont remember how the numbers go.

My goal here is that i want to get rid of the engine bogging and stalling. So if we assume i had stock keihin main jets. and the other jet that people tell they change. What are the stock sizes?
 

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Okay first off the Dynojet stage 1 kit part number that I used is 5108.001 . It's made for the 1995-1998 thunderbird with mikunis. The one set of jet's is for a K&N filter in your stock air box. The second is for k&n filter and aftermarket exhaust like TORS. If you go with pods you'll need to go pretty rich with your main jets. 138 to 142's if I recall. And 42s for your pilot jets. There are threads covering pod filters on the forum worth a read before you take the plunge. I find I have plenty of power with jet kit so I doubt I'll be switching to pods. An easy way to tell if you have tors is to read the stamping on you exhaust. If it says offroad use only you have tors. Of course the PO could have drilled out the exhaust baffles to increase airflow too.

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Btw Charlies you are correct about the stock jet sizes. Just keep in mind a dynojet 104 may be different size than a mikuni 104 size jet.

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The setup is now Dynojet needles 100 mains and pilots stock, i think so. K&N filter in airbox, Wich i intend to cut, For easier maintaining.

By the way on the right hand side carburetor i measured float level and it was about 18 or so. It suppose to be 14,5 mm
So i syncronised them. what are the effects if the float levels are off?
And where can i find the tread where the guy splitted the airbox and had lots of pictures?
 

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Jannari

Haynes is wrong on the float level for Keihins - should be 17.5mm

The 14.5mm is for Mikunis.

If you cut the airbox for easier removal make sure you leave no gaps - even a small gap over the length of the airbox will change the air intake a lot. Unless you are really sure about this the mixture can be made very weak at higher throttle opening - not good.

I think most of us swore at the airbox the first time we removed it, but with practice it's not so hard. Also, tricks like not removing the throttle cable at the carb end and just sliding out to the right means a lot less work is needed to change the filter or jets etc.
 

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Jannari

Haynes is wrong on the float level for Keihins - should be 17.5mm

The 14.5mm is for Mikunis.

If you cut the airbox for easier removal make sure you leave no gaps - even a small gap over the length of the airbox will change the air intake a lot. Unless you are really sure about this the mixture can be made very weak at higher throttle opening - not good.

I think most of us swore at the airbox the first time we removed it, but with practice it's not so hard. Also, tricks like not removing the throttle cable at the carb end and just sliding out to the right means a lot less work is needed to change the filter or jets etc.
wow! is it really so!! 17.5 !!
Again need to change!!
 

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Yes, tho we've never found it written anywhere, this how they came from the factory, as reported by members. (Mine were at about 5k miles from new.)

It's quite hard to measure/adjust to .5mm, but don't worry, imo 16.5 to 17.5 is fine. But it's good to get them all the same if you can.

(Tip - make a measuring 'tool' from some stiff cardboard cut to shape.)
 
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