i would almost certainly go for the battery but just an after thought does it have an alarm /immobiliser.
Embarrassingly stupid question: how do I start my bike?
Okay...
I bought a new (to me) 2002 Sprint RS about a week ago. When I bought it, it started and I test rode it. No problems, so I loaded it up and took it home. It rode around with me in the back of my vehicle until I had a chance to unload it a couple nights ago.
I'm guessing the battery, after a loooooong winter, doesn't have enough charge to turn the starter, but I'm not sure. I've had a trickle charger on it for about a day, but I'm not sure I've had a good connection the whole time.
Before I start thinking I've got any real problems, I'm hoping someone can answer some questions for me (bike did not come with an owner's manual). I know some motorcycles are different.
1. Does the kickstand have to be up?
2. Does the bike need to be in neutral?
3. Does the clutch lever need to be in?
I've tried it with all those, but to no avail. Am I missing something - something maybe different than other (older/carbureted) bikes I've ridden?
All my lights are working. When I turn the key on, it sounds like a pump is running for a second (fuel pump?). Kill switch is not on. But, when I hit/hold the starter button, I hear a click and the lights dim. Bike does not turn over at all. When I release the button, my lights come back.
And... my horn's not working (it worked when I bought it).
Does it sound like I'm just dealing with a weak battery, or am I missing something in the start-up procedure? Thanks. --Sean
I bought a new (to me) 2002 Sprint RS about a week ago. When I bought it, it started and I test rode it. No problems, so I loaded it up and took it home. It rode around with me in the back of my vehicle until I had a chance to unload it a couple nights ago.
I'm guessing the battery, after a loooooong winter, doesn't have enough charge to turn the starter, but I'm not sure. I've had a trickle charger on it for about a day, but I'm not sure I've had a good connection the whole time.
Before I start thinking I've got any real problems, I'm hoping someone can answer some questions for me (bike did not come with an owner's manual). I know some motorcycles are different.
1. Does the kickstand have to be up?
2. Does the bike need to be in neutral?
3. Does the clutch lever need to be in?
I've tried it with all those, but to no avail. Am I missing something - something maybe different than other (older/carbureted) bikes I've ridden?
All my lights are working. When I turn the key on, it sounds like a pump is running for a second (fuel pump?). Kill switch is not on. But, when I hit/hold the starter button, I hear a click and the lights dim. Bike does not turn over at all. When I release the button, my lights come back.
And... my horn's not working (it worked when I bought it).
Does it sound like I'm just dealing with a weak battery, or am I missing something in the start-up procedure? Thanks. --Sean
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
my starting procedure:
with kick stand down..
1. key to on
2. kill switch on
3. in neutral
4. clutch in
5. press start button.
If you want to start with bike in gear make sure stand is up. When I first got my sprint I almost ran the battery down trying to start it in gear with the stand down...I could do this with my kawi ZR-7S.
providing you got one with you bike purchase the owners manual covers starting procedures.
Good to have you aboard. Where in PA are you?
Regards,
Gerry
with kick stand down..
1. key to on
2. kill switch on
3. in neutral
4. clutch in
5. press start button.
If you want to start with bike in gear make sure stand is up. When I first got my sprint I almost ran the battery down trying to start it in gear with the stand down...I could do this with my kawi ZR-7S.
providing you got one with you bike purchase the owners manual covers starting procedures.
Good to have you aboard. Where in PA are you?
Regards,
Gerry
Battery gets my vote - put a voltmeter across the poles - it needs to read 12.7 + volts to start, or else you'll just get that 'click'. If you don't know when it was last replaced, try it on trickle charge / normal charge to see if it will recover, but be ready to get a new one.
Don't bother trying to bump-start when it's in that state, no way ( compression against you )
Don't bother trying to bump-start when it's in that state, no way ( compression against you )
Thanks, everyone.
Does it seem strange that my lights are all strong, but my horn does nothing? I don't even get a click.
Sounds like I'm doing everything right - at least as far as start-up goes. Don't think it has an alarm/immobiliser. Owner's manual did not come with the bike, so I thought I'd check here - I really appreciate the responses.
Trickle charger is still on it; I'll try to find my multi-tester and check my progress in a little while.
Does it seem strange that my lights are all strong, but my horn does nothing? I don't even get a click.
Sounds like I'm doing everything right - at least as far as start-up goes. Don't think it has an alarm/immobiliser. Owner's manual did not come with the bike, so I thought I'd check here - I really appreciate the responses.
Trickle charger is still on it; I'll try to find my multi-tester and check my progress in a little while.
McKean County - just south of the NYS border and 1:45 east of Erie. Actually, not really close to anything. Thanks for the welcome.Where in PA are you?
Did you check to kill switch? on the right bar it can be knocked off by accident. Happened to me a number of times.
Arend
Arend
Make sure it's not left in the park setting,if it has one.
That will leave the tail light on,and kill battery.
That will leave the tail light on,and kill battery.
The starter and the horn both draw much, much more power than the lights.
If you haven't yet, check the underside of the seat for the owner's manual; it may be there.
Cheers,
-Kit
If you haven't yet, check the underside of the seat for the owner's manual; it may be there.
Cheers,
-Kit
Again, thanks for all the input. No manual. I see the spot under the seat where it should go, but it's not there. At least my tool kit is still strapped under the seat.
Got the bike started, but the problem is NOT solved.
Since the horn wasn't working, and since I'm guessing there's some kind of clutch lever switch in the starting system (???), I started looking at the bundle of wires coming out of the switch box on the clutch-side bar. When I grabbed the wires and pushed them toward the box a little, my horn started working. Hit the starter switch, and she came to life.
After shutting it down, I tried to start it again. No starter. No horn. Messed with the wire bundle again, and she fired right up.
Maybe something loose/dirty inside the switch? A short in a wire? Are these things known to have problems with the clutch-side switches? FWIW, I'm guessing the bike went down on that side before; the clutch lever has been welded and it's still bent a little.
Any ideas for a next step?
Got the bike started, but the problem is NOT solved.
Since the horn wasn't working, and since I'm guessing there's some kind of clutch lever switch in the starting system (???), I started looking at the bundle of wires coming out of the switch box on the clutch-side bar. When I grabbed the wires and pushed them toward the box a little, my horn started working. Hit the starter switch, and she came to life.
After shutting it down, I tried to start it again. No starter. No horn. Messed with the wire bundle again, and she fired right up.
Maybe something loose/dirty inside the switch? A short in a wire? Are these things known to have problems with the clutch-side switches? FWIW, I'm guessing the bike went down on that side before; the clutch lever has been welded and it's still bent a little.
Any ideas for a next step?
There are a couple of wires up there coming off the left handlebar switch pod that are crimped together with an aluminum crimp. I'd check to see if it's in tact there, clean and uncorroded. This sounds like I've read it before here.
Sounds like a broken wire in there, assuming all the connectors are tight. If it were me, I would be trying to isolate which set of wires contains the broken one and then looking for a replacement on eBay.
Cheers,
-Kit
Cheers,
-Kit
Here it is!
I knew I read it before!
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/153868-safety-circut-broken-wire.html
Post #3.
and....
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/166147-all-these-problems.html
post #4
I knew I read it before!
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/153868-safety-circut-broken-wire.html
Post #3.
and....
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/166147-all-these-problems.html
post #4
I don't think I'll get it all sorted out tonight, but it's good to at least know where to look. Thanks.
In the meantime... is the temperature reading I see on the tach the water/coolant temperature? If so, at what temp to I want to run? What temp is too high? I've never had anything but air-cooled bikes in the past.
Are owner's manuals available for these things?
Edit: CharlieS, I just got through that link you provided. Sounds like you've nailed it! Thank you.
In the meantime... is the temperature reading I see on the tach the water/coolant temperature? If so, at what temp to I want to run? What temp is too high? I've never had anything but air-cooled bikes in the past.
Are owner's manuals available for these things?
Edit: CharlieS, I just got through that link you provided. Sounds like you've nailed it! Thank you.
170-190ºF is normal when on open roads, but the temp rises quickly in traffic. Poke along at 30MPH for a few minute, then sit at a stoplight and you'll see that the fan comes on around 217-218ºF. I've read that 235ºF is where damage starts being done, and I've seen a high of 230ºF in a traffic jam on a sunny Summer day in Texas. 225ºF is as high as I ever saw in New York.
Owner's manuals can be ordered from the dealer, and also pop up on eBay occasionally.
Cheers,
-Kit
Owner's manuals can be ordered from the dealer, and also pop up on eBay occasionally.
Cheers,
-Kit
The fan? It's got a fan?
The bike I rode for the longest time was an early 80s Yamaha with an air-cooled in-line four - finally sold it last summer. This thing - with it's temperature readings, electric fans, fuel injection, etc. - sounds like a pretty danged fancy bike. I may end up liking this.
I'll keep an eye on that temp - and the dummy lights. I think I'll also try to find a manual and read up on this bike...
The bike I rode for the longest time was an early 80s Yamaha with an air-cooled in-line four - finally sold it last summer. This thing - with it's temperature readings, electric fans, fuel injection, etc. - sounds like a pretty danged fancy bike. I may end up liking this.
I'll keep an eye on that temp - and the dummy lights. I think I'll also try to find a manual and read up on this bike...
Technology is a wonderful thing, and a nightmare when it don't work. 
and here!I knew I read it before!
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/153868-safety-circut-broken-wire.html
Post #3.
and....
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/166147-all-these-problems.html
post #4
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/121936-2000-rs-not-starting-relay.html
Guess what else it has! Stainless braided brake lines and a clutch cable that doesn't need lubed. Amazing, eh? The clutch plates seem to last forever, too. And when you take out a bolt or screw, it doesn't strip. I keep learning new and wonderful things. Enough that whatever my next bike is, I think it will also have to be a Triumph.The fan? It's got a fan?
The bike I rode for the longest time was an early 80s Yamaha with an air-cooled in-line four - finally sold it last summer. This thing - with it's temperature readings, electric fans, fuel injection, etc. - sounds like a pretty danged fancy bike. I may end up liking this.
I'll keep an eye on that temp - and the dummy lights. I think I'll also try to find a manual and read up on this bike...
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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