[EliTR6]

Clutch plates are on and adjusted, gearbox has 400cc of fresh ep90 and the clutch appears centred when using the kick start. I've left a piece of cardboard under the bike to check for leaks and I'll roughly align the rear wheel this evening and refit the primary cover if all looks OK.

Turning the rear wheel by hand, gear selection works fine

 

[BrianG]

Hi Eli,
400cc of gearbox oil is a little overfilled -correct quantity is 375cc. The only reason I mention it is to flag up a potential problem. I seem to remember earlier in this thread that you were thinking of changing the brass bush in the centre of the mainshaft which supports the clutch push rod. Mine is worn too, and I have noticed that on a full fill of oil, when the bike is left standing for a while, that high level causes oil to seep down past the bush along the push rod and into the clutch housing. Mmmm....EP90 on clutch plates, what could possibly go wrong? Ask me how I know.

 

[Andytheflyer]

Hi Eli, do you not have the gearbox oil level tube/drain hole on the underside of the box? If the bike is level that limits the fill level. The later bikes have it, can't remember if the 68 does.

 

[EliTR6]

Thanks Andy and Brian

I stuck a container under the bike and opened the level plug but nothing came out! I've taken a bit out with a larger syringe

Clutch operation felt good before I put the primary case back on but now I can't seem to adjust it right. It never feels completely free, like I'm pushing through rubber.

The manual says to tighten the nut on the rod until the plates lift but I haven't seen any lift yet.

 

[Andytheflyer]

You slacken the nut off in the clutch cover. Make sure you have slack in the clutch cable. Tighten the central screw in the clutch cover until it starts to bind on the clutch rod. Back off the screw maybe half a turn and tighten the locknut. Then take the slack out of the clutch cable but leave about 1/8" slack of cable inner movement at the lever. That should be about right. If you have something else then something's not right.

I have to confess that I always fill my gearboxes to the overflow level given by the level tube and I have never had a problem. Maybe I'm just lucky.

 

[EliTR6]

You slacken the nut off in the clutch cover. Make sure you have slack in the clutch cable. Tighten the central screw in the clutch cover until it starts to bind on the clutch rod. Back off the screw maybe half a turn and tighten the locknut. Then take the slack out of the clutch cable but leave about 1/8" slack of cable inner movement at the lever. That should be about right. If you have something else then something's not right.

I have to confess that I always fill my gearboxes to the overflow level given by the level tube and I have never had a problem. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Thanks Andy

Pulled the primary cover and screwed the 3 clutch adjustment nuts flush with the pins then readjusted the tension on the rod. It still sticks a tiny bit but miles better than what it was.

The springs could be worn, will order some new ones for next time

 

[EliTR6]

Quick question : how free does a properly adjusted 500 clutch feel on the kickstart lever?

Before I took everything apart, a kick or two with clutch disengaged would result in the lever feeling completely loose / limp.

Now, it feels like its just catching, the kick start has more resistance even once the clutch is (I think) freed. Could it be the new kickstart spring, bush, etc that I'm feeling?

My kicks are faintly rotating the sprocket with the wheel off the ground with the clutch disengaged.

 

[Andytheflyer]

Did you even out the runout on the clutch cover? It usually wobbles looked at from above as you rotate the clutch with the k/s. Adjust the spring tension until the runout is more or less removed.

My 500 clutch spins freely when rotated with the k/s.

 

[EliTR6]

Did you even out the runout on the clutch cover? It usually wobbles looked at from above as you rotate the clutch with the k/s. Adjust the spring tension until the runout is more or less removed.

My 500 clutch spins freely when rotated with the k/s.

Thanks. Yes, all looked even from above. The scrambler exhausts don't make it easy to check the movement!

So no resistance at all when properly setup?

 

[Andytheflyer]

Yes, no resistance at all, well, effectively none. If you let the clutch in presumably it grips and you can kick the engine over?

If so, I'd ride it and let it all bed in again. You'll probably need a slight re-adjustment after a couple of hundred miles anyway.

You fitted a new pawl and spring and the pawl retaining disc so maybe they need a bit of use.

 

[EliTR6]

Yes, no resistance at all, well, effectively none. If you let the clutch in presumably it grips and you can kick the engine over?

If so, I'd ride it and let it all bed in again. You'll probably need a slight re-adjustment after a couple of hundred miles anyway.

You fitted a new pawl and spring and the pawl retaining disc so maybe they need a bit of use.

Yep, engine kicks over fine (plugs in, ignition off for now)

Thanks!

 

[Andytheflyer]

You now know that the gearbox internals are fine so give it a go. We await with bated breath!

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

Clutch operation felt good before I put the primary case back on but now I can't seem to adjust it right. It never feels completely free,

As you've changed the clutch plates, check clutch operation with the primary access plug removed - Meriden wasn't generous with clearance, adjuster screw hitting the underside of the access plug slot is regular, if it happens when the clutch is rotating, the screw chews through the access plug slot ...

manual says to tighten the nut on the rod until the plates lift but I haven't seen any lift yet.

Ime, poor advice as it's hard to tell. I advise:-

. First screw in the adjuster with lots of effort, you'll feel the effort increase as the screw lifts the clutch pressure plate. Back the adjuster right off again. Reason you do this first is you want to be sure the clutch actuating rod is backed up to the actuating mechanism in the gearbox cover (very annoying to do the clutch adjustment and then find the first time you pull the handlebar lever is when the rod moves up to the mechanism ... amhikt ).

. Once you're sure the actuating rod is against the gearbox cover mechanism and the adjuster is backed off, definitely not still lifting the clutch pressure plate, turn the screwdriver in the adjuster between just thumb and forefinger, you'll be able to turn the screwdriver 'til the adjuster's against the end of the actuating rod but no more. Back off the adjuster about the half-a-turn or so, tighten the locknut. Done for certain.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi Eli,

As you've changed the clutch plates, check clutch operation with the primary access plug removed - Meriden wasn't generous with clearance, adjuster screw hitting the underside of the access plug slot is regular, if it happens when the clutch is rotating, the screw chews through the access plug slot ...


Ime, poor advice as it's hard to tell. I advise:-

. First screw in the adjuster with lots of effort, you'll feel the effort increase as the screw lifts the clutch pressure plate. Back the adjuster right off again. Reason you do this first is you want to be sure the clutch actuating rod is backed up to the actuating mechanism in the gearbox cover (very annoying to do the clutch adjustment and then find the first time you pull the handlebar lever is when the rod moves up to the mechanism ... amhikt ).

. Once you're sure the actuating rod is against the gearbox cover mechanism and the adjuster is backed off, definitely not still lifting the clutch pressure plate, turn the screwdriver in the adjuster between just thumb and forefinger, you'll be able to turn the screwdriver 'til the adjuster's against the end of the actuating rod but no more. Back off the adjuster about the half-a-turn or so, tighten the locknut. Done for certain.

Hth.

Regards,

Thanks @StuartMac

I've used an extra thick gasket to seal the cover so hopefully clearance won't be an issue.

I used your method, got the clutch working perfectly, big smiles all round. Then put the cover back on, adjusted the primary chain (12mm of travel), filled with oil and it's back to how it was before : still sticking a bit and resistance in the kickstart. I tried without the access plug slot but no change.

Occasionally it feels like the kickstart mechanism is catching on something but this could be a separate issue.

Truly stumped

 

[EliTR6]

It's definitely sticking

With the rear brake applied I can't get the engine to turn over on the kick when in gear

I must have tried 50 times already to get the adjustment right

Not keen on test riding a bike that won't stop

 

[Rusty1]

With the rear brake applied I can't get the engine to turn over on the kick when in gear

Hi Eli, so I understand correctly. Bike in gear, clutch held in and rear brake pedal applied? If so you won't be able to turn the engine over, the kickstarter is acting on gearbox and clutch bits which are connected to the back wheel which you've locked. If you release the brake and hold the clutch in the kickstart will turn the back wheel when in gear, not the engine.

Chris

 

[BrianG]

......With the rear brake applied I can't get the engine to turn over on the kick when in gear

Hi Eli,
I'm confused; when any bike is in gear operating the kickstart will definitely turn the back wheel. But then you say the rear brake is applied, so does the back wheel still try to turn, perhaps barely, when you operate the kickstart? If it does not move, or hardly at all, then that is why the 'engine won't turn over'.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

used your method, got the clutch working perfectly, big smiles all round. Then put the cover back on, adjusted the primary chain (12mm of travel), filled with oil and it's back to how it was before : still sticking a bit and resistance in the kickstart. I tried without the access plug slot but no change.

Well, that's a proverbial "confounded nuisance" ...

It's pita but remove the cover and try one stage at a time: with the cover off and the chain not adjusted, check the clutch is still "working perfectly"; if it is, then do the adjustment, see if it's still working perfectly; if it is, undo the adjuster, fit the cover, before you do the adjustment, see if it's still working perfectly, etc. - i.e. see which stage screws up the operation.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi Eli,
I'm confused; when any bike is in gear operating the kickstart will definitely turn the back wheel. But then you say the rear brake is applied, so does the back wheel still try to turn, perhaps barely, when you operate the kickstart? If it does not move, or hardly at all, then that is why the 'engine won't turn over'.

Hi Brian, yes but the rear wheel is still trying to turn even with the clutch lever pulled fully in. I figured this means the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

I reused the old clutch plates that I cleaned up with petrol. Either they're sticking or I can't get enough clearance to release them

 

[Mick Barratt]

Hello Eli,
The clutch disengages the gearbox from the engine, NOT the rear wheel!