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Discussion Starter #1
The tiger's not roaring.

I've changed the battery for a brand new Bosch acid type, and went over all the leads.

I couldn't find any corroded connectors and the main earth to the frame was in good condition.

We turned the lights off and turned the engine over and there was arcing of sparking around number one HT lead where it leaves the coil, and between the two connectors at the back of the coil for number two.
Having cleaned the HT leads and the connectors, the arcing seemed to stop. The bike started and ran lumpily.

Working on advice, the plug lead for cylinder 3 was placed over the spark plug with a bit of a gap, to increase the spark, and it started and ran beautifully, all the way to work and back.

Until I got a mile from home and the lumpiness began again.

The usual check for a reg/rec failure would be a flat battery and headlights whose intensity varies with the revs, if I recall correctly. I don't have a multimeter to check the battery when it's running, but I'm wondering if it's possible that the battery's running the bike, and it can manage 50 miles but that's it. When the battery's flat, there's not enough juice to run a good spark.

Any thoughts?.
 

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It does sound as though you have (at least) 2 problems as the sparking around the coil etc wouldn't be connected (excuse the pun) with a dodgy reg/rec or alternator. It would be worth investing in a multimeter - Maplins are currently doing a 2 for 1 deal at £6.99. Not state of the art but I find them good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks.
I've got a multimeter now and the battery was charging at 12.6 with the engine running.

The Tiger has an integrated regulator and a rectifier which the Haynes manual says 'do not touch'.

The next stop will be the regulator, although the haynes manual lists resistance settings of 1, 10, 100 and 1000 ohms but my multimeter only has settings of 1, 20, 200 and 2000. I wonder if that'll make a difference.

Then I'll be looking at the HT Leads. Cleaning them and then realising the futility of not being able to solve them.

I have heard that Halfords do a spray which covers HT leads, although I'm not sure if it's real or if it'd help.
 

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wondering if it's possible that the battery's running the bike, and it can manage 50 miles but that's it. When the battery's flat, there's not enough juice to run a good spark.
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I've got a multimeter now and the battery was charging at 12.6 with the engine running.

The next stop will be the regulator, although the haynes manual lists resistance settings of 1, 10, 100 and 1000 ohms but my multimeter only has settings of 1, 20, 200 and 2000. I wonder if that'll make a difference.

Then I'll be looking at the HT Leads. Cleaning them and then realising the futility of not being able to solve them.

I have heard that Halfords do a spray which covers HT leads, although I'm not sure if it's real or if it'd help.
Welsh Al, 12.6V across the battery with the engine running is much too low. Should be at least 14.0V across the batt on a stock tiger.

Likely it is only running off battery if you have to recharge it every 50 miles. A single 55W head & 5W tail bulb draw 5A. Not counting other sporadic draws from starter, fan, ecu etc the lights alone will drain a 12Ah battery in a little over 2 hours. If you have both headlights relayed to operate a little over 1 hour.

2000 ohm meter setting will measure 2000 ohm or less.

I've had HT leads in the past fail in several ways. Some had intermittent conductors that would ge worse when hot, some had poor terminal connectors and others had failed insulation causing arcs to ground or worse to myself. Just swapped with good one to locate and replaced. A spray may help if the insulation is poor but I don't think a thin spray coating provides the same isolation as an undamaged lead has.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, sorry, that was a Typo; it's getting between 14.5v and 14.7v to be accurate.

I've tried it on the alternator outputs too, and that's the same.

Seems to be an HT lead and spark plug problem, if not a coil problem, although the battery's only reading 12.2v with the engine off.

I think I'll try the HT spray, then look at plugs with a service and then HT leads if all else fails.

Thanks for the replies though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've got a multimeter/coil /ohms question now.

I've done as the Haynes manual has suggested and checked the resistance of the coils. My multimer's dial only goes as low as 20 and 200k, as described above, and so I take it that when I check the primar winding and it's reading 1.1 the actual resistance is .55ohms?.

The manual says it should be .63 +/- 1-%, which would give a range of .57 to .69, right?.
So if my coils are all giving a reading of .55, does that mean they need to be changed?.

Also, when trying to take a reading of the secondary windings, I've taken the HT lead off and put the multimeter probes on the primary and secondary windings but I get no readings. The display starts with

Display Left | 1 . | Display Right

and doesn't do anything at all. When I check just the primary windings, the display changes and gives a reading, but nothing on the secondary windings. I've tried all permutations, including leaving the battery negative terminal on as well as the manual-advised off (although I don't like doing this as the alarm goes off).
The manual says the readings should be between 10k and 11k, but I get nothing.

The only other option then would be the igniter box, it would seem.

Any thoughts? The bike runs, albeit in quite a lumpy way, and I'm about a week away from just dumping it in a garage.
 

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Hi,

I've heard that the HT leads are prone to failing at the plug end because there is no drain hole at the top of the cylinder - ie. they hold water and perish...

Might be a good place to start?
 

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I've got a multimeter/coil /ohms question now.

I've done as the Haynes manual has suggested and checked the resistance of the coils. My multimer's dial only goes as low as 20 and 200k, as described above, and so I take it that when I check the primar winding and it's reading 1.1 the actual resistance is .55ohms?.
Don't know about your meter but the standard is that the reading is the actual value, ie if it shows 1.1 on the 20 ohm range it's 1.1 ohm. At least it is on my multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Really? So the numbers on the multimeter are only limits, calibrations of sensitivity or suchlike?.

That means all three coils are bageled then, and the HT leads.

I checked the pickup coil, and that's just fine, the air gap and resistance are what they're supposed to be.

Next stop, a dealer workshop, methinks.

Thanks all.
 

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I have a starter problem as well

I have a 2007 Tiger and when I turn the key to the on position the bike makes the usual checklist noise but the starter will not engage. They I push the starter button again and it engages, but only turns the engine over a couple of times and then disengages. It acts like a weak battery. So I bought a brand new battery and installed it. Unfortunately it does the same thing. Bottom line....even with a new battery it acts like the battery is very weak or even dead. Any ideas????? Please help. Longshanks
 

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I have a 2007 Tiger

So I bought a brand new battery

Unfortunately it does the same thing.

Please help. Longshanks
is it only 12 month warranty in the US?

check all the grounds,

check the live feed to the solenoid and motor

if you feel confident use a jump lead to make contact with the starter terminal, using the old batt would be best if it is charged

if motor spins then solenoid or control wires

if motor fails then there you go

if you dont fancy the jump leads then try things like the clutch switch and the starter button itself, both can give trouble
 
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