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Discussion Starter #1
2008 Speed Triple - VIN 347XXX

Main problem - flickering headlights/headlight out/flickering & lit high beam light, Bike not starting after sitting.
Initial thoughts - based of of research int his forum and known issues, my thought was R/R or Stator or something in the charging system generally. Based off of recommended tests, the results i got go against that.

Chronologically:
  • bought the bike in VA 7/19, all seemed to be working accordingly. Came with aftermarket signals, taillight, and headlights.
  • Took it for PA inspection 7/23, upon arrival, no start. Left it at the shop expecting a starter, but a battery charge fixed it. The infamous X>12.3V or it won’t start (some ECU protection measure).
  • Ordered a new battery, all’s well. Also changed coolant, oil/filter, & air filter.
  • Noticed while riding that the high beam light flickers on and off. Not as brightly as if I flick the high beam on, but almost. And not constantly. Comes and goes with no discernible cause.
  • Bike sat for ~2 weeks waiting on an OEM rearset
  • Went to start it last 2 Fridays ago and it was dead. Like totally dead. As in, trickle-charger-won’t-charge-it dead. A friend came through with an overnight charger and it was ready to rock the next day for a solid 9 hour ride.
  • One time during the ride I accidentally kicked out of neutral at a light and the bike stalled. It then wouldn’t start. Waddled red-in-the-face to the shoulder where I turned off the bike, waited, turned it on, and it started. No other related issues starting throughout the trip.
  • That was Saturday, then i rode it Tuesday and it was fine, but by Thursday it was dead again. The speedo would kick on, but not even a fuel pump prime could be heard.
  • Took apart the headlight and checked the connections I could, but no dice. Still flickering intermittently.
  • Today I did all the electrical diagnostics in the sticky to rule out a charging system issue.. All wires and connections check out. Tested the R/R for resistance and all was well - no short circuits and Ohms in the .4-.5 range. Checked the stator 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 and all was well. Same with Stator-to-engine-ground.
  • Checked wiring in aftermarket lights and signals and couldn't find anything glaring.
  • Installed battery but disconnected ground wire and bridged the gap with a multimeter set to mAmps. Had a .19 draw with everything off which went away only when i pulled the main 30A battery fuse. Does this mean anything??
Other measurements for reference:
  • Battery off the bike, fully charged overnight - 13V
  • Battery on the bike - 12.97V
  • Ignition on, headlights on, not running, kill switch on - 12.5V
  • Started, running at idle - jumped down to 10.9V then back up 10 high 13's and 14+ within 8-10 seconds.
  • Running at 5k - slight change to 14.1-14.2 but no major drop off.
What the hell is going on? Any other tests i can do? Should i just replace the R/R anyway?


Related pics below.
733896
733897
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733899
 

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Those connectors you show are
The Alarm Connector (fitted with bypass plug because no alarm is installed)
The connector for the CA-only purge valve for fuel emissions control - not used on 49 state bikes
The Diagnostic Connector (aka OBDII)

It certainly sounds like the R/R - can you show a picture of what is installed? It sounds suspiciously like some Chinese clone issue
Makes no sense to be at 10V after start and then taking 8-10 secs to come up to 'normal'
And potentially that could also be what is draining the battery when parked

Do you know how to check battery drain current?
Check that with key off - if you get a significant value, then unplug the R/R (output connector) and check again; if still high you need to check for other sources of short
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Those connectors you show are
The Alarm Connector (fitted with bypass plug because no alarm is installed)
The connector for the CA-only purge valve for fuel emissions control - not used on 49 state bikes
The Diagnostic Connector (aka OBDII)

It certainly sounds like the R/R - can you show a picture of what is installed? It sounds suspiciously like some Chinese clone issue
Makes no sense to be at 10V after start and then taking 8-10 secs to come up to 'normal'
And potentially that could also be what is draining the battery when parked

Do you know how to check battery drain current?
Check that with key off - if you get a significant value, then unplug the R/R (output connector) and check again; if still high you need to check for other sources of short
Thanks for the clarification on the connectors. My mind can rest easy knowing that's not an issue.

Just ran down to take a pic of what is currently installed. Pic below. Sorry, it's night here and starting to get dark. Can get a better pic tomorrow if need be!

8-10 seconds is probably inaccurate. I took a video. Check it out, and sorry for the potentially bad info.

I thought checking the battery drain was what i did in the last bullet point:
"Installed battery but disconnected ground wire and bridged the gap with a multimeter set to mAmps. Had a .19 draw with everything off which went away only when i pulled the main 30A battery fuse. Does this mean anything??"

If that's not it, then I'm not familiar with it. Can you link a post/article?

EDIT: Adding pic i forgot to attach
733900
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Those connectors you show are
The Alarm Connector (fitted with bypass plug because no alarm is installed)
The connector for the CA-only purge valve for fuel emissions control - not used on 49 state bikes
The Diagnostic Connector (aka OBDII)

It certainly sounds like the R/R - can you show a picture of what is installed? It sounds suspiciously like some Chinese clone issue
Makes no sense to be at 10V after start and then taking 8-10 secs to come up to 'normal'
And potentially that could also be what is draining the battery when parked

Do you know how to check battery drain current?
Check that with key off - if you get a significant value, then unplug the R/R (output connector) and check again; if still high you need to check for other sources of short

Video doesn't seem to be cooperating, but to clarify -

12.57 before starting
10.9 while starter is running
13.4+ immediately after it's started
Climbs constantly but does in fact take about 10 seconds to hit 14.14 where it caps off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Be worth checking the harness to the ignition switch where it's clamped to the rhs of the headstock.
RHS?
When I had the air box off, I checked all the harnesses I could see in that area and everything looked fine. I can certainly check again.
 

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It's not uncommon to have wires break inside the harness sheath at that point. Sometimes they kind of half break and keep making/breaking contact giving rise to some of the issues you're describing. Can also happen at the bottom of the ignition switch. Picture of one I had to attend to attached.
Ign Sw 4r.jpg
 

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@jfogiato I have a spare, new Shindengen FH020AA in NYC - yours if you need it, DM me. To the electrical experts, I'm tired of dealing with mosfet R/R failures and related stator failures. What is the series R/R that is closest in size to the Shindy, that can be mounted with minimal fab? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@jfogiato I have a spare, new Shindengen FH020AA in NYC - yours if you need it, DM me. To the electrical experts, I'm tired of dealing with mosfet R/R failures and related stator failures. What is the series R/R that is closest in size to the Shindy, that can be mounted with minimal fab? Thanks.
DM'd!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's not uncommon to have wires break inside the harness sheath at that point. Sometimes they kind of half break and keep making/breaking contact giving rise to some of the issues you're describing. Can also happen at the bottom of the ignition switch. Picture of one I had to attend to attached.
View attachment 733915

@Terry Colley - Can these be accessed without tank/airbox removal, or will i need to do that again? Also, when you say "ignition switch", you mean the wires literally at the handlebar?
 

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@DEcosse - Okay so i did test the battery drain, yeah. Per the last bullet point, i was getting a .19mA draw that only dropped to 0 when i pulled the main 30A fuse. Thoughts?
 

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0.91 mA is nothing - less than 1mA

On the key-switch - if that, it is more likely broken harness at the clamp per Terry's first suggestion (and picture that shows the clamp and harnesses passing through it) than the switch itself
But that doesn't explain the battery discharging
Don't know what kind of R/R that is, but it's not OEM and its not a genuine Shindengen either - some kind of clone it appears - are there any markings on the end of it (the face opposite where the wires are)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
0.91 mA is nothing - less than 1mA

On the key-switch - if that, it is more likely broken harness at the clamp per Terry's first suggestion (and picture that shows the clamp and harnesses passing through it) than the switch itself
But that doesn't explain the battery discharging
Don't know what kind of R/R that is, but it's not OEM and its not a genuine Shindengen either - some kind of clone it appears - are there any markings on the end of it (the face opposite where the wires are)
Noted. Inspected that and didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Here’s a pic of the R/R:

733951
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update!

Thanks to the help of Jack at Roadstercycle I went with a new SH847 kit. I also bought Jack's universal mounting kit. The installation was incredibly straightforward and didn't take more than an hour or two. The bike is now running much much better and I haven't had any electrical-related issues since.
 

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Glad your charging issues are resolved. I'm stuck with low 13vDC charging voltage with a new battery, and about to order the SH847 from Jack. Can you share a couple of photos of the mounting location? How did the kit help? Also, what kind of voltages are you seeing at the terminals at idle and 4kRPM with the series R/R?
 

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Glad your charging issues are resolved. I'm stuck with low 13vDC charging voltage with a new battery, and about to order the SH847 from Jack. Can you share a couple of photos of the mounting location? How did the kit help? Also, what kind of voltages are you seeing at the terminals at idle and 4kRPM with the series R/R?
I mounted the SH847 in the stock location, actually. He provides a universal bracket with holes that align with the SH and two “slots” that allow you to move around the bracket until it fits the existing mounting holes where the OEM R/R was. No pics on me, but I can take one when I get a chance.

I’m consistently getting 13.2V when the bikes off, 14.2 right after it starts at idle, and between 14.4-14.7V when riding (probably between 4K-8k RMP’s though I’m not sure exactly).

Don’t hesitate, just buy!!
 

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Is stock mounting location on your '08 the back of the battery box? In my case the lower bolt holding the FH020AA which secures something under the battery box, is too long for the larger SH847 to fit. I'll need to dremel the bolt or figure out alternate mounting config. The series R/R gets hotter too per the shunt design so airflow will be important, have you noticed the difference?

Edit: the SH847 and series regulators do not use shunts. Instead they interrupt the flow of current to the load, no parallel shunted load. Series regulators do use semiconductor controlled rectifiers (SCRs), similar to stock Triumph shunt regulators, which get hot.
 

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Is stock mounting location on your '08 the back of the battery box? In my case the lower bolt holding the FH020AA which secures something under the battery box, is too long for the larger SH847 to fit. I'll need to dremel the bolt or figure out alternate mounting config. The series R/R gets hotter too per the shunt design so airflow will be important, have you noticed the difference?
Yep - mines mounted in the pit between the rear shock and the engine itself. My lower bolt wasn’t holding anything on. So far no heat issues the few times I checked! It’s semi-open on the sides of the bike so I think it should be okay. Time will tell!
 
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