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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy.

After spending months looking at this forum scrolling through topics and researching mods for my bike I have a couple of questions that I can't find answers to.

I have a 2008 EFI triumph speedmaster with TOR pipes for reference.

1. Are the standard o2 sensors run wideband or narrow band output? These are 4 wire sensors to the ECU.

2. In relation to the previous Q. Does the ECU have an analog input (0-5v) for the o2 sensor?

3. Has anyone successfully run a turbo on a triumph twin that has a 270 degree crank, and did it run ok considering the exhaust pulses are not ideal for turbo application.

4. Does anyone on this site make throttle body and battery relocation brackets? (not paying $300 for an ABRK when i can get the filters and bungs myself)

5. Is there a company that makes aftermarket head gaskets for these engines, e.g. metal compound and in different thicknesses?

6. Has anyone put aftermarket throttle bodies on these bikes without any great difficulty?

7. Is there any gain to be had with head work or is the flow of the head designed well from factory? (other than cams/springs)

8. What is the power limit of the standard pistons/rods on a non-boosted engine? I know that with boost you can run up to approx 8psi and about 85hp.

9. Is there a way to run a gear indicator on these bikes through the factory ECU?


I know that some answers may be in topics but I have yet been able to find them through trolling threads. I am about to start playing with tuneecu and beginning my quest for power. My main problem is the power curve dropping off around 6000rpm (on last dyno), which I plan to fix with filters and more fuel, and I will move the peak torque rpm by using an adjustable intake trumpet.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and I look forward to the replies.
 

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nova, Interesting questions. Saw this yesterday and hoped to see some answers. I share some of your questions.

1. Are the standard o2 sensors run wideband or narrow band output? These are 4 wire sensors to the ECU.
They are narrow band O2 sensors according to people that know lots more than me.
Haven't seen any throttle body relocation's discussed, are you talking different intake manifolds? Battery relocation along with airbox removal has been covered here and on other forums with store bought kits and DIY versions.
I've had some engine mods done and would be interested in different/larger throttle body options.
Have seen the gear selector indication discussed but did not seem practical.
edit: my America used to run OK up to 6K RPM and then just crawl up from there. Had 813 cams & 904 big bore done. Pulls right up just passed 7K RPM now. Then not as much but still pulls right up the the rev limiter. Think the cams make the most difference in the high RPM range.
 

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I may do cams if i can afford them one day.
Havent looked at changing intake manifolds yet, but larger throttle bodies is something I want to look into. Im sure I can find something out there.

If I got a big bore kit with forged pistons I would change the rods as well to stronger ones, so I'm looking at about $1500 to do it all.
 

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Also another thing I have noticed with my bike.

When Iturn off the bike the tacho need sometimes stops at about 200rpm. Then I have to turn ignition on and off again to get it to go to 0rpm.

Has anyone else had this issue of a sticking needle. Its as if the bike cuts power to the tacho before it can reach 0 rpm when turning off the bike. The downside is that if I start the bike when the needle isnt at 0 then it puts my rpm reading out.
 

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Just purchased pod filters for my bike.
Will make my own brackets for battery re-location and throttle body brace.

Spent hours last night trying to find the best price for the filters to ship to australia.
Most companies at the moment will only ship using USPS express or priority which entails a $40-$70 shipping cost to Australia.

I now purchased through http://www.fasteddysports.com/ who uses first class (economy) shipping which is only $10-$15 to Australia.
Even though he purchases his parts through newbonneville.com he still ends up being cheaper than they are after shipping.

Gotta love the US postal system.

Also to note. I have purchased pre-filters as well which I'm not sure why most people on this site don't add to their bikes.

K&N PN: RC-2890DK.

I think they are a great design when using the bike for day to day activities. Also adds some insurance against water ingress and larger dirt particles. Also means cleaning the pre-filter is easier than cleaning the pod filter all the time.
 

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Also another thing I have noticed with my bike.

When Iturn off the bike the tacho need sometimes stops at about 200rpm. Then I have to turn ignition on and off again to get it to go to 0rpm.

Has anyone else had this issue of a sticking needle. Its as if the bike cuts power to the tacho before it can reach 0 rpm when turning off the bike. The downside is that if I start the bike when the needle isnt at 0 then it puts my rpm reading out.
Very common. Flicking the kill switch on and off also resets it.

Mine actually stopped doing it after a couple of years!



Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 
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