[pizzaman68]

Apologies if this has been posted before - I have looked.
Does anyone know where I can find the earth points on my daytona 2002 model. I want to check they are ok as I carry out some electrical checks (not charging the battery) Also does anyone have a picture of the battery ompartment/ underseat area showing what wires are what? I have the diagnostin cable but there are two other wires with plugs on that I have no idea what they are.

Thanks as always

 

[sardinecan]

You can follow your negative battery lead to determine the frame grounding point.

Not sure if any of the pictures in this thread might help? http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-d...arging-system-the-solution-4.html#post1023477

 

[DEcosse]

The only ground connection to the bike is the main engine ground; everything else returns in the harness to the battery negative terminal. Not like a car, there is no 'chassis ground'. (or frame ground)

If you have charging issue, very likely you have failed stator or Rectifier/Regulator.
Stat by checking Fuse 2

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

One other connector in your battery box would be the alarm connector - it has a bypass plug with two wire loops on it.
Other than the Diag connector, can't think of what else there might be - the R/R of course has two harnesses/connectors, one with 4-way plug (output) and the other a three way (input)

 

[pizzaman68]

Thanks

Thanks for the info. I shall be running the tests to see where the problem lies (again - same thing happened last year). Will let you know for info. At least I know not to chase around looking for earthing points. Lets see if the multimeter still works.....

Thanks

Off to post on a different subject.

 

[DEcosse]

Your '02 should have had the stator extender cable replaced under recall - that is a fairly heavy duty 3-way cable that acts as extender between the stator output connector (should be tucked up around the top left rear of engine cam cover) and the R/R.
Inspect the connector at the engine end - make sure is not burned - and indeed has the new cable installed (original was laced into harness - the replacement is stand-alone 3-way harness)

 

[pizzaman68]

tested and problem found but what do i do now

Hi again - well the tests were partially done as when I took the side panel off I was faced with this...
Guess that answers why it wasn't charging!!
The harness looks like it has been replaced



The question is I guess where do I go from here - is there a way of testing that the rectifier is ok? and what may have caused the melt down? From here I'll atempt the mod of taking the wires from the rectifier to the battery. Should the burnt brown wires that go into the rectifier be the same size/gauge as the triumph harness ones as they seem smaller?

I take it the red and black wires that connect to wires that go back into the harness are the ones which will now go to the battery?



Also what size wire in the UK would 12 gauge be equivalent to?

Finally - and I can start a new post for this - does any one know what the following cables/connectors are in the following pictures. All were located in the fuse box/battery area?

Pic 1


Pic 2 (could this be the old pre triumph recall 3 wires to the rectifier?)


Pic 3 (2 angles)



Thanks to everyone.

 

[DEcosse]

Definitely not an OEM R/R, nor its connector - did someone make adapter harness for that?
I would start by junking that R/R and fitting MOSFET unit.
You need to do the Stator tests also however, to see if any problems with that.

The pic 1 is the alarm bypass;
The three way connector in pic 2 is the original Stator extender (no longer used).
The pic 3 is accessory connector - live even with ignition off

If you go with the FH012/FH020 style MOSFET R/R the easiest way to connect that is to get the Triumph harness identified in the sticky - then it will connect the new R/R directly to those 4-way & 3-way connectors down from that burned mess.

12 ga is ~ 3 mm^2 (3 is slightly smaller than 12ga)

 

[bradtx]

pizzaman68, I agree with DEcosse, toss the lot and redo it properly with a MOSFET R/R. I don't usually suggest this, but that's just a mess.

Brad

 

[pizzaman68]

Thanks guys, as usual. Yes it's a bit of a mess. Now I know what the smell was!. Going to find the sticky now to track down the adaptor. Thanks for identifying the cables. Hope it helps someone else as well. Will read the forum to see what mofset ones are recommended. Thanks again.

 

[DEcosse]

... Going to find the sticky now to track down the adaptor. ....

The link is in post #3 - scroll to bottom (very last post) for info on the adapter cable - it's quite inexpensive.

 

[pizzaman68]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. It's the same cable for the 675 Daytona? I think that's right?

Just one question - do I need to hack (not a great choice of words) into this link cable to do the direct connection to the battery with the inline fuse? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.

Cheers

 

[bradtx]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. It's the same cable for the 675 Daytona? I think that's right?

Just one question - do I need to hack (not a great choice of words) into this link cable to do the direct connection to the battery with the inline fuse? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.

Cheers

In order to connect the R/R output directly to the battery you'll need to remove the connector meant for the OEM harness, install a fuse holder on the (+) wire, extend the (-) wire and add ring connectors to half-tap with the OEM battery cables on the battery terminals.

Brad

 

[DEcosse]

The whole point of using the OEM cable is that it is plug n play.

 

[pizzaman68]

Thanks, I get that it's plug and play but do you still recommend doing the "straight to battery" mod or should the fact there is now a good conection and a mosfet R/R be enough for any man?

Thanks

hopefully doing it all this weekend so the end - or beginning - is nigh.

 

[DEcosse]

I see more post-install issues associated with poor terminations - if you have capability to do quality job then wire it directly but the cable makes it easy and is quite adequate.
See sardinecan's thread