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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After finally fitting my NH Togas I recently installed the Dynojet Stage I kit to my '04 T100. Yea Yeah, its old hat for many but honestly I was a little intimidated. I took pictures so that someone with the same experience can see how easy it was. The process was straightforward and results were positive.

Here it is step by step. Anyone can do this. However, if anyone notices something I did wrong, or has any advice, please let me know.

Get that tank off!





Unscrew the tops of the carburetors carefully and the springs pop right up.




 

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Discussion Starter #2
The rubber diaphragms are removed with the needle and spacer.





The stock spring is on the left. The Dynojet spring on the right has more coils yet is softer.



The stock needle, at bottom, is shaped differently, especially the tip.
I simply followed the instructions provided regarding e-clamp and washers.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Gently placing new needle and spacer.


Replace the phillips with some of those stainless allen head bolts from any online source. I used blue Loctite when placing the new bolts.



I used a little hand held screwdriver to remove bowl screws



The arrow points to the main jet, which will now be replaced. The green circle just shows where the mixture screw is located.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Unscrew the old, screw in the new.


Barely any difference in between the old 115 and the new 120 main jet.



As instructed, I gently turned the mixture screws until seated (with the super shoddy D-shaped tool included.) Before using this thing I suggest the use of vice grips and bend this thing until you are able get a tight fit on the D-shaped screw. I then used a marker to make a reference point for the screw. Exactly 3 turns out on each side.



Well Done! Go enjoy yourself!
 

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Felt good when I finished mine, too. Well done!

Only thing I see that bit me once was that the main jet holder can turn and come unscrewed with the main jet. Best to take an open ended wrench and hold it while unscrewing the main.

Also, did you replace the bowl screws with the hex nut ones too?

So you went from 115 to 120, how does it run?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
....forgot to mention that I made sure jet holders were nice and snug before I fitted the new mains.

And yes again, I was using the 115's with my TORS, but changed to the NH Togas and noticed a lot more deceleration pops.

The bike runs better after the change in jet size and everything together gives her more get-up-and-go.

Oh yeah. Replaced all screws with allens. The screws were a pain in the wrist to get off.

I do wonder.....do I need to worry about synchronizing the carbs?
 

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Thorough Documentation

Paul this is a really nice write up, many thanks. While a lot of folks have indeed done this already, there are far more who haven't, and who would like to see what's involved before they attempt it themselves. I am therefore going to place a permanent link to this thread in the "great source of info" sticky. You will eb able to find it in the post about carb tuning.

Nice one - as an additional note, if your bike is running really well, the carbs are probably balanced OK, but my approach is it's always a good idea to check the carb balance after you have done work on them.

This is a slippery tuning slope you stand on the top of my man! :D
 

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Nice job, and nice job writing and illustrating it. :ClapHappy:

I can add two things:

You don't have to remove the diaphragm. Some have trouble re-seating it. You can grab the needle and holder with a pair of narrow long-nose pliers.

The NewBonneville mixture screws are excellent to put a permanent end to the mixture screw D-tool aggravation. They turn via thumbscrew--just grab and turn--and they have index marks so you can easily see how far you turn them.

http://www.newbonneville.com/html/idle_mixture_screws.html
 

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I just ordered the NB mixture screws 'cause I'm tired of dealin' with the D-Tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the feedback and compliments; my pleasure. I am honored to include it on the GSOI thread.

I had originally scheduled my bike for this maintenance at the dealership, but canceled and wanted to do it myself. I hope someone else will not hesitate to do the same.
 

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My main jet holder came out instead of the jet and then another little tube fell out that just sits on top of the holder. Of course it fell down in the nooks & crannies of the motor cases. I eventually found it but i had to tilt the bike and shake it. Plus the loose tube can be put back together either way up and nothing on it says "top" so be careful.
 

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My main jet holder came out instead of the jet and then another little tube fell out that just sits on top of the holder. Of course it fell down in the nooks & crannies of the motor cases. I eventually found it but i had to tilt the bike and shake it. Plus the loose tube can be put back together either way up and nothing on it says "top" so be careful.
That's the main jet collar. Happened to me (actually a helper) once too. Just be sure to hold the main jet holder while unscrewing the main jet at the bottom.
 

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Have no fear!

The collar can only go in one way - I just tried it on my spare pair of carbs to test it out.

This picture shows the jet holder and collar correctly oriented to each other. See how the end of the collar next to the jet holder is slightly larger diameter than the other. If you put the collar in the wrong way round, the threads on the jet holder won't even engage. I just tried it.



This is what the jet holder looks like when correctly installed.



Which just reinforces the info paulc posted.

Ah Sito! you beat me to it too! Nice pic!
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think that "jet holder" is actually an emulsion tube. They bubble air around the needle. You should clean and check those and blow them out with air when they are out. If they are gummed up the bike will run bad. Also take a minute to notice how many turns out so you do not change the height. Changing the height affects mixture. Lastly if you have a lot of miles on you should check the needles and the hole in the tube. If they are oval or worn they have to be replaced.

Believe it or not for most carbs you can actually buy high performance replacement emulsion tubes..but clean is good. Most of the guys with old bikes with old carbs are familiar with cleaning these tubes...
 

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You are not wrong, so I'm not going to correct you.

I'm not sure height of the emulsion tube is adjustable - obviously you could make a new spacer or something, but I wouldn't recommend backing the emulsion tube out - just seat it correctly.
 

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I do wonder.....do I need to worry about synchronizing the carbs?
you don't have to lose sleep, but the carb sync makes those 2 engines run together.

it syncs the butterflies so they progress together... out of sync will have one always leading the other like turette syndrome which lags with the CVs like dominoes on acceleration, and popping on deceleration ...you can refine that to a dance team by balancing the vacuum between the linked butterflies.

I'm sure you know where the adjustment is and know about the homemade U tube manometer...it's a cake walk with precision results...good bang for the trouble...and a manometer is cheaper/more sensitive than the mercury sticks.

check them at 1000rpm and again at 2500...and find the best average, because it can vary slightly over the rpm range.

and of course all the intake leaks should be sealed prior to get this right including the butterfly pivot shafts...those wear after a while and go unnoticed.
 

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back screw

i'm wondering what's eeryone's best approach for removing and attaching the screw on the left carb, behind the idle adjustment knob and the breather hose??? that screw SUCKS!! it's the only one i stripped taking off the original philips ones, even putting the allen one in as a replacement was a pain!!!

does this particular screw just suck everytime, or am i failing to realize to move something or missing a step to simplfy this?
 

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I have found by placing the screw on the end of my 1/4" micro ratchet set up, I can use that to maneuver the screw into place without a problem. This is easy when using the allen drive screws.

Sometimes using a 1/4" drive universal joint helps a lot too.
 

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Carb Replacement Allen Screws

What about the little lock-washers that come with the replacement screw kit? Should I be using them?

I'm about to go out and rejet now for the first time and I think that's my only fuzzy area.
TIA
 
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