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I am replacing a stator and the R/R this weekend as well as installing a volt meter. Good advice - thank you.
Why would you replace them without testing them? Your money, but if they are working I see no reason to change them out. A visual inspection will tell you if they are heating up and electrically testing them will tell you their health.
 

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Why would you replace them without testing them? Your money, but if they are working I see no reason to change them out. A visual inspection will tell you if they are heating up and electrically testing them will tell you their health.
Right. But replacing the stock RR w/ a series one make sense anyway. Carrying a spart stator w/ the needed set of tools is an option thought.
The set of tools is very reduced and mainly aiming at removing the fairing. So an allen wrench for the fairing and an hexagonal wrench (is that 8mm?) for the cover plus a spare gasket between two sheet of cardboard for protecting it.
Spherical allen wrenches are very efficient for this job. Only one size needed. Plus a credit card for removing the top bezel w/o damaging the side fairing (that's the way I do).
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Why would you replace them without testing them? Your money, but if they are working I see no reason to change them out. A visual inspection will tell you if they are heating up and electrically testing them will tell you their health.
The stator is completely burned out. It only produces between 1-3 volts per connector terminal. I have an extra rectifier so I figured while I am doing one, do both.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Right. But replacing the stock RR w/ a series one make sense anyway. Carrying a spart stator w/ the needed set of tools is an option thought.
The set of tools is very reduced and mainly aiming at removing the fairing. So an allen wrench for the fairing and an hexagonal wrench (is that 8mm?) for the cover plus a spare gasket between two sheet of cardboard for protecting it.
Spherical allen wrenches are very efficient for this job. Only one size needed. Plus a credit card for removing the top bezel w/o damaging the side fairing (that's the way I do).
Do stators burn out at a rate the justifies carrying a spare one? Wow - didn't know that but I rather do that than sit on the side of the road waiting for a tow.
 

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Do stators burn out at a rate the justifies carrying a spare one? Wow - didn't know that but I rather do that than sit on the side of the road waiting for a tow.
I understand it's desperating you. That's the price to pay for sparing the load of an automotive generator (like gen 1 955).
So yes, rather than being stuck, just take precautions.
BTW in my tool inventory I forgot to mention the tools for removing the stator from the case. Afair it's allen as shown in this vid:
Same for 955 and 1050 even if the oil fume (centrifugator) seal desappeared from 1050. So 3 allen bolts for the stator and one for the wire exit.
 

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Right. But replacing the stock RR w/ a series one make sense anyway.
Ok, that I agree with and makes sense: an upgrade. But without testing anything you could be throwing away a perfectly good stator when you RR is bad or vice versa.

The stator is completely burned out. It only produces between 1-3 volts per connector terminal. I have an extra rectifier so I figured while I am doing one, do both.
That makes sense as well. I guess when I read through your questions and answers I did not see anything about your stator being already bad and looking to replace it until people mentioned the RR and stators can be troublesome on these bikes so it seemed like you were preemptively replacing them.

Installing a good voltage meter is a great tool to know the health of your charging system if you are at all concerned.
 

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Do stators burn out at a rate the justifies carrying a spare one? Wow - didn't know that but I rather do that than sit on the side of the road waiting for a tow.
It all depends on what you plan to do, where you plan to go and how worried you want to be. While I am big proponent for doing scheduled maintenance ahead of time, the RR and stator will normally give you warnings it’s starting to fail and the lifespan of the components will vary greatly depending on how you ride (idling in traffic all day vs. air flowing over it all the time), when and where you ride (cooler temps vs. say the desert), your electrical load (lights on high beam, heated gear, accessories, etc.) and how the bike is maintained. So while one person may have their fail in 10,000 miles another could go 100,000 without issue.

Should you carry one is up to you. You can normally (carefully) jump start the bike or charge the bike enough to get it off the road or to a hotel parking lot, aftermarket stators are readily available and can be overnighted to you if needed and installed by any shop you may encounter if you can’t.

Anything can fail, where do you stop: fuel pump, extra battery, fuel injector, ECU, etc. I would not let the thought of a possible failed stator be anything more though provoking than parts that could fail n your car.
 

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It all depends on what you plan to do, where you plan to go and how worried you want to be. While I am big proponent for doing scheduled maintenance ahead of time, the RR and stator will normally give you warnings it’s starting to fail and the lifespan of the components will vary greatly depending on how you ride (idling in traffic all day vs. air flowing over it all the time), when and where you ride (cooler temps vs. say the desert), your electrical load (lights on high beam, heated gear, accessories, etc.) and how the bike is maintained. So while one person may have their fail in 10,000 miles another could go 100,000 without issue.

Should you carry one is up to you. You can normally (carefully) jump start the bike or charge the bike enough to get it off the road or to a hotel parking lot, aftermarket stators are readily available and can be overnighted to you if needed and installed by any shop you may encounter if you can’t.

Anything can fail, where do you stop: fuel pump, extra battery, fuel injector, ECU, etc. I would not let the thought of a possible failed stator be anything more though provoking than parts that could fail n your car.
I am sorry to say my personnal experience shown the opposite.
I live in what we can call a mild climate. I never ever go above 7krpm. I monitor the voltage constantly.
However last spring while I was 50km or less away the voltage dropped suddently. One pole of one phase was cooked.
As soon as a pole is short-circuited the stator temp start to climb triggering an avalanche effect that keep on destroying the stator.

The first time it happened to me I was 400kms away. I bought a charger and stayed at an hotel for the night charging the battery. The day after I got back home w/ no light. I was very lucky to be in a town w/ a dealer that sold me a charger.
 

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Not to mention that as soon as the stator is shorted to ground, the rr can't do its job.
 

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I am sorry to say my personnal experience shown the opposite.
I live in what we can call a mild climate. I never ever go above 7krpm. I monitor the voltage constantly.
However last spring while I was 50km or less away the voltage dropped suddently. One pole of one phase was cooked.
As soon as a pole is short-circuited the stator temp start to climb triggering an avalanche effect that keep on destroying the stator.

The first time it happened to me I was 400kms away. I bought a charger and stayed at an hotel for the night charging the battery. The day after I got back home w/ no light. I was very lucky to be in a town w/ a dealer that sold me a charger.
So I understand that in your case they were both a catastrophic failure without any real outlying factors, which has not been the norm in my experience (on other bikes, mind you) or as I have read others usually have, except on the "older" ST's.

I am wondering what would have done differently or what would you suggest to be done by others to stop that failure from happening? Do you think an early replacement have helped and at what interval? Should we be carrying an RR and stator with us? Did you upgrade the stator as well or do you think the poor RR killed the stator?

I see in your sig you have a GT, from reading around here the GT RR is mounted in a different area that sees more cooling and I thought I haven't seen much for abnormally short stator life on the GTs or later STs. Were they both on the GT or were they different bikes?

You have peaked my interest in this. So far my GT has been rock solid, and I haven't worried much about the charging system. I hope it stays that way!!!
 

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More air, not sure. The location of the rr on the gt is close the exhaust pipes and there is no way for the hot air to excape once trapped there. I located the sh775 I put on on the left side behind the fairing. Still it's running hot because it relies on scr that have a voltage drop of 1V.

The only reason I see for the sprint to burn their stators is the oil being so hot the stator can't cool down. I couldn't tell whether the wire gauge is too small thus getting hot because of the joule effect.


It took quite some years to cook the stator though.
 

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More air, not sure. The location of the rr on the gt is close the exhaust pipes and there is no way for the hot air to excape once trapped there. I located the sh775 I put on on the left side behind the fairing. Still it's running hot because it relies on scr that have a voltage drop of 1V.
My bikes are currently in winter storage so I can’t look at it right this second but I was under the impression the early ST’s had the RR mounted mid engine, right behind the lower fairing on the right side of the bike and the GT/later model ST had it mounted more in the upper faring area behind an air duct in the upper thereby putting it more into the air flow and would not near the exhaust or hot engine. This thread talks about it:


So I guess I was falsely under the impression that it helped the life of the unit? I assume you are talking about a GT or ST with it mounted in the updated location you had your troubles with.

The only reason I see for the sprint to burn their stators is the oil being so hot the stator can't cool down. I couldn't tell whether the wire gauge is too small thus getting hot because of the joule effect.

It took quite some years to cook the stator though.

So based on that, now I’m not sure what to make of the discussion:

Would your suggestion be no matter the model or year replace the RR with a series one, even before failure and just carry a spare stator if traveling far? Or keeping the oil cool? I’m hoping to keep my GT another couple years and am trying to spend some time, money and effort on it this off season to keep it going strong when I’m traveling. I respect your knowledge and am looking for guidance since you’ve personally had so much experience with this model.
 

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350 is a long day.
 
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Last Nov, I took my 99 from Denver to just about St Louis in a round about trip through much of the Ozarks on a 7 day trip over 2,500 miles. Its been to WY. ID. UT. MT. SD. NM. KS. OK. AR. MS. NE. and knock on wood has never failed me. Bought 6 years ago with 3k, closing in on 40k.
 

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Bought my 1050 ST last May in Indiana sight unseen, rode it back over 2 days to Denver. Most of the rides I do on it are between 350-600 miles in a day. Its only failed me mechanically once (of course I was about 350 miles from home at the end of the first of a 2 day ride) when my Stator and RR failed. but ive had those fail on literally every bike ive owned. Having replaced that, chain, and rebuilt shocks, I trust it to go anywhere I need. This was a ride I did last summer
 

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Do you trust your Sprint for a long haul (100+ mile trip). What's the farthest trip you have made on your bike?
Took my 2009 ST on an around Australia ride in 2017, covering over 18,000km with no problems. Had a service and replaced the tyres half way round. The bike had over 80,00km including 2 trips around Tasmania before I had a low speed drop and wrote it off. Only problem with this bike was the battery draining if it stood still for several weeks.
 

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bought new 955 in 2004. been to NW coast 2 X, Canada 2 X, SE coast 1 X. 50K + miles, still take this bike on cross country trip even though have added 3 new bike since. It just eats up the road. get a radar detector
 

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I have zero anxiety to ride my Sprints cross-country.
 
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