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DIY mega soft clutch!

17822 Views 29 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Tornado99
2
First up, I bought a set of Convertibars so as this old fella can sit upright a bit more..
So I needed a longer brake line and clutch cable..(throttle cables should be fine)
I bought a longer brake line (cheap)
I did not want to buy a longer clutch cable (not cheap) since I spent AU$460 posted for the bars already..
So out come the tools and thinking cap.
I have gained 280mm to play with on the cable by relocating it to the side of the head with a bracket and instead of just lengthening the inner cable I rigged up a pulley system from a push bike derailleur wheel and chain.
Now the clutch pull has halved and the feel has doubled.(feels so nice and can be pulled by one finger..
The pics should explain the rest..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOU8OTKKSCM&feature=youtu.be

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Looks good. Can you gey a video of the pully working..

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A good news story

HI Rossco 955. That looks very good , any chance of a close up video of the pulley area and close up photo's I can't really work out what's going on. Always thought the triumph clutches needed to be lighter a cure would be very much appreciated
I'll see if I have the energy to pull the side off it again tomorrow for you..
Although it doesn't move much at all..
It's funny to get used to being so soft but when you re-train your brain it's nothing short of sensational.
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Thanks for that no rush do it when if convenient for you
Interested to see the mechanism, might give these old RSI affected wrists a break.
That would be great. Thanks

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I can't figure it out...Hurting my brain lol...When you guys figure it out...Seems like a treat though...Very genius ?
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More pics and video as requested.
Keep in mind that I only mounted the cable that far up to gain more cable for the higher bars..
Mount it anywhere you want with your own bracket, make sure the pulley is straight with the clutch arm and the cable straight with the chain.
I chose to use a chain pulley over a cable pulley since the chain is super easy to attach.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bZokDAc_6A&feature=youtu.be

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That is a fantastic idea and super easy..

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Cunning!

You cunning devil you Rossco what a great idea! :beerchug

cheers
DaveM:smile2:
Cheers Dave.
That's the first time I've been called that...it's normally another word with the first 3 letters in cunning....lol..
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More time in the workshop I like it.

More pics and video as requested.
Keep in mind that I only mounted the cable that far up to gain more cable for the higher bars..
Mount it anywhere you want with your own bracket, make sure the pulley is straight with the clutch arm and the cable straight with the chain.
I chose to use a chain pulley over a cable pulley since the chain is super easy to attach.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bZokDAc_6A&feature=youtu.be
Thanks a lot for that Rossco looks like I have another project for the Daytona. this would work on any bike with a cable clutch
Although it takes half the strength to pull the clutch it looks like your losing half of the pull distace.
Have you test ridden it? Does the clutch fully disengage and fully engage?

If its working well for you i might copy your idea for some kind of pulley on my sprint since my clutch seems really stiff.
Nice DIY engineered solution

Not taking anything away from that, there is an off the shelf lever enhancement cable-pull from Moose Racing that makes for easier pull
You use this in conjunction with the stock lever/perch/clutch switch

http://www.mooseracing.com/products/?productId=114640



There are also replacement 'stunt' perch/levers that have an enhanced lever advantage nipple position and also utilize bearings on the pivot point to reduce the mechanical friction resistance of the assembly itself.


Here is demo with it on a Triumph 675 Daytona
(the only thing I don't see available is a clutch switch option for these levers)
- but shows a reduction of 16.5* lbsf to 7.5lbsf
*In the video he actually does this right on the ball end of the OEM lever - if he had gone inboard to a more 'normal' position on the lever, it would have been even more.
Note that this presenter didn't make any mention of the bearings, however the main mechanical advantage would of course come from the pivot point

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Must be a sailor...this is a typical 2:1 purchase setup, though sailors don't use bike chains and even cables are rare on sail boats.

Nice work!
Seems like this could be slimmed down to a lighter/cleaner setup using a small turning block (sail-slang for pulley) used for wire (slang for cable ;-)

This would be more amenable to those of use with naked bikes where the clutch arm is in plain site (I'm looking at you, T100 bonnevilles!)

It would really help me on my stop & go commuting rides!



http://www.apsltd.com/kiteblock-red.html


http://www.apsltd.com/16mm-high-tension-micro-single.html
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Here are another couple of DIY options:

This one extends the length of the actuator arm to improve leverage at that end

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-the-girly-hands-strike-back.html#post5379602




Or this one, which attempts to replicate the quick-pull levers (shown in post above) revised nipple position for improved lever ratio on a standard lever
The workmanship is not great but the premise is the same as the ready-made versions

The process is outlined in a series of pics here - http://imgur.com/a/wVo27

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Here are another couple of DIY options:

This one extends the length of the actuator arm to improve leverage at that end

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-the-girly-hands-strike-back.html#post5379602

I was just looking at the T100 clutch arm...it is very close to the tranny casing with no room to lengthen the arm appreciably like in your image.
In your first pic you show a spring instead of a chain. Was that just a mock up before installing the chain or another idea initially? The chain seems to make sense.
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