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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did lots of searches on oil changes and came up with too many options. I need a simple solution to changing my oil. I wanna go to autozone and buy my oil for 20 or less usd...
Problem is I'm confused on the weight and do Ibuy the gallon plus the quart xtra since its lil over 4 quarts..and will the honda element oil filter work...my bike is a 05 790cc::: bonneville..
I'm not interested on oil wars or anything just reasonable easy solution because its needs changed and I'm goin change again anyway after few thousand..but really needs it now and on budget...not paying 40 bux for oil and need a education on somone promoting oil to me....lol ill get that next oil change
Thanks much...please give me best bang for buck weight/qaunity/filter /autozone
 

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The Autozone here sells Mobil 1 4T motorcycle oil. Consult your manual for the proper specifications, but you want stuff for a "wet" clutch. Also, you can use a Bosch 3300 filter, or consult "Other Parts That Fit Your Bike" in the tech section.
 

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You don't need more than 4 quarts. I use a bit less than 4 quarts with each oil change, as do most of us. That should save you a few dollars.

The Rotella fans will chime in shortly, I think that can be done for $20.
 

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Rotella 5/40 synth. at walmart $20 gal.
It's big rig diesel truck oil,some go a million miles.
 

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+ 1 on the Rotella. Pep boys carries it too. Walmart also sells really inexpensive filters though. Honda Element filters will work just fine. I keep a few of the cheap walmart filters on hand as back ups and have used them on my bike as well as my girlfriends Element.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bought rotella 3t 15w40 15 dollar gallon non syn...5$purolator filter advance auto...liq wrench chain lube....goin put I. Tommorow afternoon...hope the 3t is ok I read that its not necessary to use synthetic if you change oil every 3k...hope its safe....
 

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Good luck. I've only used the synthetic version, and don't know much about the non synth. Theoretically, synthetic is good for 4 or 5,000 miles compared to dinosaurs, so in that sense, it works out about the same over time, if not cheaper. As long as it doesn't have any additives, it should work. If it's made for cars though, it very well could. You'd better research it before you put it in there though. Most auto oils can damage your clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did some more investigating and its ok from what others posted to use non synt rotella 10w 40
 

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Well, according to this guy: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/
here are the filters to buy.

About 2.5 inches long: Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. Made by Champion.

I've used the full-synthetic Mobil 1 4T stuff and never had any problems, although up here I run the thinner 10W40 rather than the heavier 15W/50. It seems to start better in the cold (and I mean Maine cold, not California cold).

OIL FILTER WARNING!!! In one of my genius moments, usually in the mindset of "If some is good, more it better" I used one of the 3.25" long filters. My reasoning: Longer filter = More filter element = more better oil cleaning! What I didn't realize: Longer filter = longer filter = hangs down further = rock kicked up from front wheel pokes little hole in filter = trail of oil of about 5 miles = changing out filter and adding oil in a honda dealership parking lot in Cheyenne Wyoming. Brilliant, simply brilliant. By the way, the honda filter works well, too. So, just use the shorter filter - it works fine. I prefer the Purolator Pure One: it comes in a grip-friendly surface painted an attractive shade of baby-sh*t yellow. Do it yourself: it's easy, and if you need it later, you'll have had the practice.
 

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The synthetic Rotella (blue jug) is JATO MA spec. I ran this oil exclusively in my v-strom 650 (52k before it was totaled by a drunk driver) and used it for 60-70k in my old Pacific coast after my supply of the 'old formula' 15-50 red cap mobil-1 dried up. Never had any sort of clutch problems with either bike, and the PC800 still had the original clutch in it with 167k on it when I sold it. I put it into my new Bonnie with no hesitation when the first 500 mile change came up.
 

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As long as it doesn't have any additives, it should work. If it's made for cars though, it very well could. You'd better research it before you put it in there though. Most auto oils can damage your clutch.
I bought my first 4 stroke motorcycle in 1968 (rode 2-strokes prior to then). Used auto oil in that and every bike I've owned since, except the Bonnie, even ran Castrol GTX + STP in a Yamaha for 60,000 miles, without clutch problems. I think the tale of clutch problems with auto oil is so the stealer can sell their overpriced lubricants.
 

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I cant get rotella in Aussie so I use a good quality Diesel oil. Because the climate is hot year round I personal use Pensoil 20-60 diesel as my 04 speedy seems to like this the best even though the numbers would suggest that it is far to heavy. I have tried lots of different synthetic oils but get terrible clunking from gearbox when really hot I think synthetics are too thin for my bike but your bike may well be different. Try and see what works best for you so long as it dosnt have friction modifiers. If worst case its only a few dollars to drain and try something else.
 
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