Just want to clarify - Castrol 10W50 Racing T is by no means 'specified' as the oil for the Triumphs.You're welcome. Yes, same filter part number, T1218001.
Just for the record, though, the Castrol 10W50 Racing T oil specified in the owner's manual for the T120 costs close to $20 a quart around the Seattle, WA, U.S. area. Even if purchased at a discount or by the case, this means even a DIY oil change will still push $80. If you have a Triumph dealer charging $80 to $100 for an oil change, that ain't bad at all. Especially when you consider you don't have to dispose of the oil, don't have to spread kitty litter on your garage floor after you tripped while carrying the catch-basin, and haven't burned your arm for the umpteenth time on the hot exhaust pipe while breaking the torque of the drain plug.
I'm not a fast mechanic, I'm not a slow mechanic. I'm a half-fast mechanic. Ba-da-bum.
Same here. Torque wrenches are necessary for a lot of things, but I've never bothered to use them on oil drain plugs or oil filters.You know what, I have changed my own oil on both my cars and bikes for about 50 years. I have never used a torque wrench to tighten the oil drain plug, and have never had one fall off. I do use a torque wrench on torque critical items like head bolts and such. But the oil drain plug doesn't fall into that category, and as long as it doesn't fall off, it is tight enough. A good reef on the allen wrench is good enough. Contrary to what was posted by someone earlier, I do like to change the drain plug washers every change, if I have one handy. It may not need it, but re-used ones do have a tendency to leak, and it is hard to predict by looking at it if it will leak or not. If I don't have a new washer I will polish the sides of the old one with emory cloth or sand paper. The newer copper crush washers are my favorite. Used aluminum ones washers seem to be the most apt to leak.
Same here. Torque wrenches are necessary for a lot of things, but I've never bothered to use them on oil drain plugs or oil filters.
But I do get my wrenching arm calibrated regularly...:smile2:
Having stripped enough drain plugs in my lifetime, have a set of SHORT Snap-on wrenches!
Just to join in the conversation a bit.I've never had troubles with that. I've always had this feel for how tight it tight enough with things like that. Dumb luck, or God given talent? Who knows?
Most owners will swear by the oil that they have been using, so you may get many different answers :smile2:But what is the best oil to use?
I wish. After my dealer charges $75 to $80 for oil and filter it’s another $100 plus for labor. Oil changes are closer to $180.00.More people need to read this, same here, dealer oil changes alone are running $80-100 (US).
Group III actually has some characteristics that is better than Group IV PAO. The PAO will edge out the modern Group III base oils in some areas, but the average vehicle or bike owner would never see the difference. This "real" vs "faux" synthetic thing is really fun to watch.that overpriced fake synthetic is likely a group III highly refined CRUDE oil! there are real synthetics for less $$$. the engines needs to be fully broken for real synthetic group IV + V oil, redline is my fav + being ester based prolly one of the best. simple services are easily done at home saving $$$$ keep receipts + records + use oil that meets triumphs specs