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Coming back around to this thread.

A few weeks ago, I took my TR in for the tank recall. This way Seattle Triumph, up on Aurora for anyone in the area. cool shop, lots of modern classics and very friendly sales/service staff. Very much embracing the cafe/scrambler/whatever hipster vibe. It was a busy showroom with lots of happy people in it. Even talked to a few riders myself and it was enjoyable.

However...

I'll likely not take my bike there for service again.
1. The service department is in a closed off area with tinted black windows on a slider. You can't see what they are doing to your bike while they have it and they don't let you in for 'insurance' reasons.
2. Asked to talk with the tech when I dropped it off about suspension preload. After checking on the bike 2 hours in (for a 30 minute job), the gal at the counter said they were done and were adjusting my comp/rebound settings. I had to tell her to stop and had the tech come out to discuss. Her advice was use comp/rebound. No advice on preload on the spring, which I figured out with the help of others, noted in the Setting Sag thread.
3. I managed to overhear a charge while talking to the service desk gal. A fellow was having his 500 mile service done. Total charge was $375! For an effing oil change and overall bike check.
4. I mentioned the valve noise I am hearing and their advice was to let them put it on the scope to check the throttle bodies. Then Triumph might let them look at the valves. what???
5. My custom modified (JB Weld and set pin - works a treat!) kick stand extension went in intact, and came out with a broken attachment. Just how much force is needed to extend a kickstand?
6. Overall pricing is a bit high there.

I get keeping the lights on and the costs to run a business. But taking advantage of your customers wallets on service and parts is a no no to me. I expect fair treatment. If I don't get it, I don't come back. Just ask my wife! There are many restaurants I won't patronize due to poor service.

Good to hear that the I90 Motorsports dealer is more into regular riders needs and not just making money off of the $115/hr shop rate that Seattle charges. I'll be taking the bike there for any future service needs, even though it is far out of my way.
 

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You're welcome. Yes, same filter part number, T1218001.

Just for the record, though, the Castrol 10W50 Racing T oil specified in the owner's manual for the T120 costs close to $20 a quart around the Seattle, WA, U.S. area. Even if purchased at a discount or by the case, this means even a DIY oil change will still push $80. If you have a Triumph dealer charging $80 to $100 for an oil change, that ain't bad at all. Especially when you consider you don't have to dispose of the oil, don't have to spread kitty litter on your garage floor after you tripped while carrying the catch-basin, and haven't burned your arm for the umpteenth time on the hot exhaust pipe while breaking the torque of the drain plug.

I'm not a fast mechanic, I'm not a slow mechanic. I'm a half-fast mechanic. Ba-da-bum.
Just want to clarify - Castrol 10W50 Racing T is by no means 'specified' as the oil for the Triumphs.
Looking in the Modern Classics Owners Manual (current version, downloaded from Triumphs web site), in Specifications chapter, as Engine Oil, the following entry appears: "Semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 10W/50 motorcycle engine oil that meets specifications API SH (or higher) and JASO MA, such as Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 (fully synthetic) engine oil"
So the Castrol oil is just given as an example, not as a requirement.
The manufacturers oil specification can be paraphrased as any semi or fully synthetic oil, as long as it meets API SH (or higher - like SJ, SM, SN) AND JASO MA. So as long as you are using a semi or fully synthetic API SH (or higher) JASO MA oil, regardless of brand or price, you are complying with manufacturers specifications.
 

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You know what, I have changed my own oil on both my cars and bikes for about 50 years. I have never used a torque wrench to tighten the oil drain plug, and have never had one fall off. I do use a torque wrench on torque critical items like head bolts and such. But the oil drain plug doesn't fall into that category, and as long as it doesn't fall off, it is tight enough. A good reef on the allen wrench is good enough. Contrary to what was posted by someone earlier, I do like to change the drain plug washers every change, if I have one handy. It may not need it, but re-used ones do have a tendency to leak, and it is hard to predict by looking at it if it will leak or not. If I don't have a new washer I will polish the sides of the old one with emory cloth or sand paper. The newer copper crush washers are my favorite. Used aluminum ones washers seem to be the most apt to leak.
Same here. Torque wrenches are necessary for a lot of things, but I've never bothered to use them on oil drain plugs or oil filters.

But I do get my wrenching arm calibrated regularly...:smile2:
 

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But I do get my wrenching arm calibrated regularly...:smile2:
Having stripped enough drain plugs in my lifetime, have a set of SHORT Snap-on wrenches! ;)
 

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Same here. Torque wrenches are necessary for a lot of things, but I've never bothered to use them on oil drain plugs or oil filters.

But I do get my wrenching arm calibrated regularly...:smile2:
Having stripped enough drain plugs in my lifetime, have a set of SHORT Snap-on wrenches! ;)
I've never had troubles with that. I've always had this feel for how tight it tight enough with things like that. Dumb luck, or God given talent? Who knows?
Just to join in the conversation a bit.

On the FZ-09 boards, there have been a number of people who have stripped out their drain plugs BECAUSE they used a torque wrench and followed the torque specs in the manual.

Personally, I've always just tightened it till it felt right. Both on my cars and on my bikes.
 

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I'm getting ready to do mine, maybe this weekend. Man, that oil is a bit pricey, but at least it doesn't take 5 gallons like my PowerJoke Ford pickup. I'm thinking chain adjustment will probably be the trickiest part for me. Great thread btw, thanks.
 

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But what is the best oil to use?



:flame:Wallop
Most owners will swear by the oil that they have been using, so you may get many different answers :smile2:

Any oil that satisfies the manufacturer's specifications as listed in your Owners Manual - regardless of the brand - will probably serve you well. It is ridiculous
how much some of them cost... but clearly some people still buy them at those prices.
 

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Crush washer?

Hi Richreed,

I do my own servicing when I can too. Have done one already. Bought oil and filter from a local dealer, along with a replacement sump plug washer. I was advised that NOT replacing the washer was the recipe for an instant oil leak.
Did you replace yours, or re-use the original?

The oils you guys get in the US seem better than what's available in OZ. This service I'm going with Penrite MC 4ST 15W-50 100% full synthetic. It's about $15-00 a gallon cheaper and exceeds the specs of what the Triumph dealer sold me last time.

Also planning to use a K&N oil filter. It has the little nut welded on it's bum to make removal of the old filter easier. Worth the few extra bucks to avoid the headaches.

Cheer,

Tubs,
Perth Western Aus.:grin2:
 

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More people need to read this, same here, dealer oil changes alone are running $80-100 (US).
I wish. After my dealer charges $75 to $80 for oil and filter it’s another $100 plus for labor. Oil changes are closer to $180.00.
Rediculous when I can get my Nissan dealer to change oil in my truck for under $50.00.
 

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that overpriced fake synthetic is likely a group III highly refined CRUDE oil! there are real synthetics for less $$$. the engines needs to be fully broken for real synthetic group IV + V oil, redline is my fav + being ester based prolly one of the best. simple services are easily done at home saving $$$$ keep receipts + records + use oil that meets triumphs specs
Group III actually has some characteristics that is better than Group IV PAO. The PAO will edge out the modern Group III base oils in some areas, but the average vehicle or bike owner would never see the difference. This "real" vs "faux" synthetic thing is really fun to watch.

In all fairness, the Castrol Power 1 4T has a viscosity index of around 168. That is in Group IV PAO territory. But if you would have actually researched it before you let your fingers go off, you would have known that.

Actually, the add pack in the motor oil, which makes up to 20% of any motor oil, has as much or more effect on how good a motor oil is.

A great article from "Machinery Lubrication" which is a industry respected publication says it all about Group III vs Group IV PAO.....

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/533/base-oil-trends

And for those that fall for the Group V thing.... Check with the specifications guidelines.... Group V is simply any oil that doesn't fit within Group 1 thru Group IV. Just because a oil is Group V doesn't make it heads and shoulders above any group below it. Ester Group V is a a good base, but similar to the Group IV vs Group III thing, it doesn't do everything better than any other group.

But again, this is all good for a morning chuckle.
 

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When I did that first oil/filter change, the filter was unbelievably tight from the factory. I tried a couple of different cup wrenches they just slipped on the filter. Finally just went and got the Triumph version. It’s apparently made slightly more snug, as that one worked fine.

I normally prefer a strap filter wrench, but they just won’t fit in there on the Bonnie.
 
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