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Discussion Starter #1
I see no lights at all, full and happy cranking yesterday and today is 100% dead.
I touch the charge level indicator in the batt and it shows 0 with a random 1 out of 3 dots at times. Left it charging at the Autoparts store. Now. Why did this happen? This is what was different from any other night. Left the ignition off but with the key plugged in.
718826

Is this myth real? 馃馃馃馃馃馃馃
Given it鈥檚 a Porsche forum but might apply to our bikes?
Thank for your input
 

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Just tried my Daytona out of curiosity, not cos I don't believe Terry, he will be correct on things like this.
It's an older 2013 bike but does have the chip in the key, was pulling 0.40mA steady and 5mA when the immobiliser LED flashed.
This is with the ignition turned off but was exactly the same whether the key was placed in the ignition or not.

It may have an element of truth for certain cars though, my BMW used to charge the key fob with the key in the ignition, not sure if it had to be turned on or not, very unlikely to drain a battery though.
 

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From memory, depending on the age of your bike & the charging system, some older bikes do not like Li batteries. It's down to the charging system. Older style Reg/Recs continually pump a charge to the battery & while Lead/Acid batteries can handle this Li batteries can't so don't last long. Also Li batteries cannot take a charge over 15v which some older charging systems can go over, especially at high revs.

Newer Shindengan Reg/Recs push any residual charge to ground & don't usually push over 15V, so cannot overcharge a battery.
 

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CafRacer, I must confess to having forgotten about the inbuilt immobiliser in the 2008> models. The flashing LED should stop after 24 hours. Even so your confirmation that the current draw is the same irrespective of whether the key is in the ignition or not still leaves the op's question as to how a healthy battery could go flat overnight unanswered.

Nicspeed, if your model still has the parking light function when you turn the ignition key one click anti-clockwise beyond the steering lock could you have inadvertently left the parkers on overnight?
 

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CafRacer, I must confess to having forgotten about the inbuilt immobiliser in the 2008> models. The flashing LED should stop after 24 hours. Even so your confirmation that the current draw is the same irrespective of whether the key is in the ignition or not still leaves the op's question as to how a healthy battery could go flat overnight unanswered.

Nicspeed, if your model still has the parking light function when you turn the ignition key one click anti-clockwise beyond the steering lock could you have inadvertently left the parkers on overnight?
Very good point about the parking light, I forgot about that.
A totally useless feature on a bike, the only function is to drain your battery when you turn the key too far, it should have a reminder beep for a few seconds if you switch it to park, same as a car tells you you've left the lights on if you open the door.
 

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And let's not forget the advice in the owners manual:
Although the engine stop switch stops the engine, it does not turn off all the electrical circuits and may cause difficulty in restarting the engine due to a discharged battery.
Ordinarily, ignition switch should be used to stop the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for the chime ins guys, doing the walk of shame to get the charged battery now, I will install it and bring the bike to get the drawing current tested when running and also when off just to prove this witchery wrong.
i don鈥檛 think I left the parking lights on as the steering was unlocked, also it wasn鈥檛 on the on position as I turned the key a notch to the right noticing the absence of any lights.
Or at least I thought I did? 馃う馃徏鈥嶁檪锔忦煒栶煒
The cell charger also came to mind or any other live cable short circuiting against the frame bleeding the batt empty. But still that鈥檚 a long shot I say..
 

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Three things that I have learned in researching lithium batteries...
1. they are much lighter than lead-acid batteries
2. they can be killed by being overcharged or by being completely discharged
3. some have built-in protection against overcharging and discharging.

I came to the conclusion that
1. the weight saving on a Sprint 885 with my fat arse perched on it would be marginal :)
2. there seemed to be a lot of trashed lithium batteries out there
3. if I did buy one it would have to have charge protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So... update!
today I picked up the fully charged battery and reinstalled it, cranked right up as usual. Took the bike to test at the Autoparts store, charging system passed the test but not the battery. I called the distributor for a warranty and they conveniently located 15min away from me, took the bike and they tested the battery with their lithium testers. Battery test passed now, so the tech said it was probably an exposed cable touching the frame or the sort. So after some looking and digging I noticed a sharp groove in the positive rubber boot resulting from the vibration and being too close to the tank bracket. Now I鈥檒l have to wait and see if it gets drained after sitting a while. 馃し馃徏鈥嶁檪锔
I made sure it鈥檚 clear from this bracket by wedging a piece of cardboard on the side to shift the battery away a bit.
Wait and see now...
718848
 

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So... update!
today I picked up the fully charged battery and reinstalled it, cranked right up as usual. Took the bike to test at the Autoparts store, charging system passed the test but not the battery. I called the distributor for a warranty and they conveniently located 15min away from me, took the bike and they tested the battery with their lithium testers. Battery test passed now, so the tech said it was probably an exposed cable touching the frame or the sort. So after some looking and digging I noticed a sharp groove in the positive rubber boot resulting from the vibration and being too close to the tank bracket. Now I鈥檒l have to wait and see if it gets drained after sitting a while. 馃し馃徏鈥嶁檪锔
I made sure it鈥檚 clear from this bracket by wedging a piece of cardboard on the side to shift the battery away a bit.
Wait and see now...

View attachment 718848
If it was a load test at the auto parts store it might not be correct on a new tech battery BUT that battery distributer tech is a moron.

ANY connection from B+ to ground is not a "drain" it is a dead short and if not fused usually produces smoke and that AWFUL electrical smell.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To his credit he didn鈥檛 specify what was touching what, I just found this scuffed boot and moved it away. I鈥檓 just hoping it鈥檒l do the trick 馃し馃徏鈥嶁檪锔
 

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To his credit he didn鈥檛 specify what was touching what, I just found this scuffed boot and moved it away. I鈥檓 just hoping it鈥檒l do the trick 馃し馃徏鈥嶁檪锔
The battery distributor tech making the statement sustains his stupidity.

If either the positive or negative battery cables are loose AT EITHER END that can effect charging and starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Battery is still full (3 dots) and cranking as usual. It seems it did get drained thru that rubber boot after all.
That鈥檚 why the tech was aiming for when explaining what could be the culprit as lithium batts only have 4 amps vs 15 on the lead-acid ones, so any drip drain of current will kill the battery in a matter of hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Battery is dead again. Uber must be loving me these days.
I鈥檒l start removing the power start mod cables to eliminate possible shorts song the way to the starter and back from negative and then go from there.
FML
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No signs of frayed or scuffed cables, neither OEM or power-mod additional. The cellphone charger cables seem intact but I鈥檒l disconnect it just to make sure that鈥檚 not it.
Anybody with a better way to test current drain? Perhaps the battery is bad after all?
 

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No signs of frayed or scuffed cables, neither OEM or power-mod additional. The cellphone charger cables seem intact but I鈥檒l disconnect it just to make sure that鈥檚 not it.
Anybody with a better way to test current drain? Perhaps the battery is bad after all?
You don't have a short... a short will blow a fuse or trip a breaker.

You either have a bad battery or there is a parasitic drain on the battery with the key off.

To check for that you need a meter that can read amps or an ammeter but unless you know how to hook one up you can do real damage.

If there is a parasitic drain then you have to find it. One possibility is a bad rectifier/regulator. Another might be an accessory you wired in.

Unless you have the necessary electrical knowledge it's time to take your bike to the dealer.

My money is on a bad battery... go back to an AGM battery.

Over many years I've enjoyed great service from motorcycle AND car batteries made in the US by East Penn (DEKA). They are sold at O'Reilly Auto Parts under their Super Start house brand name. East Penn (DEKA) OEMs the batteries for HD.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes they offered the super start AMG but since I鈥檝e never heard of it I didn鈥檛 get it then. Revzilla sells the Yuasa AGM for the same $$ but it doesn鈥檛 come charged. Maybe a plus since the self life will start counting from acid deployment no? Also brand name?
 

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Yes they offered the super start AMG but since I鈥檝e never heard of it I didn鈥檛 get it then. Revzilla sells the Yuasa AGM for the same $$ but it doesn鈥檛 come charged. Maybe a plus since the self life will start counting from acid deployment no? Also brand name?
FIRST... someone who knows what they're doing needs to check for a parasitic drain. If there is one it will kill any and every battery you install.

When you know there's no parasitic drain go to O'Reilly and buy their battery. Just install and tighten the connections. It is charged and ready to go. If you do have a battery problem O'Reilly is right around the corner not UPS shipping time away.

You make this far more difficult than it needs to be...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You鈥檙e right. I鈥檒l jumpstart the bike tomorrow and have the mech to test for leaks when key is off
 
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