Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys

Back here with an issue on my 2010 Street Triple.

Was riding home from work when I looked down and the instrument cluster was dead; no rev lights, rev counter stuck at 3000 odd rpm, and no speedo. Indicator on cluster is working, and headlights functioning, and the bike was still running.

Rode it home, turned it off and tried to start, nothing; instruments aren't lighting up and fuel pump isn't priming. Battery is solid, and checked with another working and charged battery.

I did some research on this forum and others, and it seems like it may be a fuse issue or a wiring issue, but I am unsure as to where to check exactly and am looking for guidance; some guys are saying check the fuses under the tank, some the connector into the instrument cluster (I don't know where this is).

If anyone is familiar with this issue, can you please provide a list of what to check - the bike is my only transport and I've got to use it to get to work tomorrow. I'm going to start looking at dawn, and have about 2 hours :/.

Thank you in advance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,889 Posts
My very similar issue with this on my 2013 was due to a loose wire in the connector to the instrument cluster. The connector should be at or around the bottom of the back of your gauges. Turn the key on. If yours is like mine was, the display will be blank and the fuel pump will not prime. Reach under the gauges and find the cluster of wires coming out. Give them a wiggle. If your bike comes to life, that's it. I never found which wire - and neither did my dealer - so a large gooping of hot glue on the back of it has worked for 3 years or so.

If that doesn't solve it, it might be one of the main connectors in the wiring harness from the ignition. On your bike it should be the under the left side of the airbox. If you've seen the posts, you'll know if the problem is there, because the heat damage is obvious. To fix that one you'll need to bypass the connector for that one wire path by soldering in a new wire.

If your problem is the gauge connector, you might be able to get that one sorted in a couple hours, but if it's the latter, it might take you longer, since you have to remove the airbox to get to it. It all depends on how handy you are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Morning guys, thanks for the replies.

I'm going to give both of those a check ASAP. I can get the tank and the airbox off fairly quickly, so hopefully it'll get sorted enough to get me to work.

Will post an update in a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE:

I put the key in the ignition to check before doing anything else, and instruments came on and she started like normal. Going to leave her as she is and just pray that she holds out for today and tomorrow for now. Come the weekend I was going to balance the throttle bodies anyway, so I'll get the tank and the airbox off then and have a proper look.

I love this bike, but damn the electrical gremlins in the last year have aged me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,889 Posts
I could be wrong, but I think for the people who experienced the main connector issue, when their bike died, it was dead. My gauge connector issue was intermittent to the point that if it cut out while I was riding, I could reach under the gauges, wiggle the wires, and the dash would come back to life.

Good luck, and don't forget to post up what you find and how you fixed it.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top