[ckassen]

Actually I just found one for $100, going to get it.
Thanks,
John

 

[jefftarlton]

The '01 and back sprints had a larger fuel tank/smaller airbox. '02 and newer had a smaller fuel tank/larger airbox.
The larger airbox breathes better.

 

[jefftarlton]

triumphtimes lists an '00RS/Daytona engine as one of his current rides.
Maybe he's already figured out some things you need to know. He doesn't state which year Daytona engine though.

 

[ckassen]

Thanks for the info.

I have just recieved my coils, but I do have a problem. Wiring them up. The coil itself has one connector with two pieces of metal in each one--A-B--, one for each wire to connect too--B-C--, but which wire goes to which connector? Would the wires be the same on the RS (left wire-C-to left peice of metal in the connector-A-) or would they be flipped?

Image uploading. Refresh page to view

[ This message was edited by: ckassen on 2006-12-11 19:45 ]

 

[triumphtimes]

Looking at the RS wiring diagram from 00 and Daytona 02 the wires appear the be reversed at the connectors and there are two different part numbers for coils depending on the year of the motor. Someone else may be able to verify this from experience. I used all compatible parts in my conversion meaning an 01 daytona motor which is a direct bolt in sharing all the same parts as my RS.

 

[ckassen]

I have recieved my throttle bodies and have found out that my air box will not fit. So I will be buying a new one, also the connector on the throttle body is different from the RS connector. I am going to buy a Daytona wiring harness so that I can take the connectors off of it and splice them so that they work. The number of wires are the same but I need to figure out which wire goes to what. It will be difficult, so I need a wiring diagram, if anybody could help me out that would be great.
Thanks,
John

 

[triumphtimes]

John,

email me off forum and I'll get you the wiring diagrams.



[ This message was edited by: triumphtimes on 2007-01-02 20:18 ]

 

[ckassen]

Does anybody know for sure how the Daytona airbox will fit under the RS tank.
Thanks,
John

 

[mikey]

Hi i have the 2002 S3 and Daytona manual in pdf format this is where I normally go and download any manual I need for free Enjoy

http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=420640
This should be made a sticky imo
Mikey

 

[triumphtimes]

John,

I emailed you some pictures that should give you the answer to the air box, tank, throttle body questions we were talking about. :upthumb:

 

[ckassen]

Well I have mounted the regulator, oil cooler, airbox (it was a *****) and have fitted everything except the headers, which will be here Wendsday, but other than that everything is going good. It wasnt to hard to wire it all up, just took some time. The airbox though was the tough part.
I just figured I would let you all know exactly how everything was going. Let me know if you have questions. I will let you all know sometime next week IF it starts up.
John

 

[DEcosse]

Hi - glad to read you've been enjoying your engine swap project - sorry I didn't catch this sooner, I just did similar with '02 Daytona motor into my T509 Speed Triple - principle is the same as your Sprint - swap engine, wiring harness & associated electronics (ECM & sensors, instruments, regulator etc), airbox, headers, exhaust, twin-pull throttle.
I just learned today from T595.net that a 1050 Speed Triple Airbox will fit directly under the earlier S3 tank without mods - might be similar relief for the Sprint also. (Information courtesy of Racecomp, Steve Phillips)

Mine is pretty much done - just need a few small pieces of hardware & new exhaust mid-pipe (or complete new slip-on) for the Daytona header.

My last remaining issue is the fuel level sensor (sure to be yours too!) - you need to find a way to integrate the new model one into the old tank - completely different fitment & more importantly, the signal. You'll get a CEL without the correct sensor connected.

I integrated the original radiator (used a Honda CBR1000RR filler neck); I'm keeping eye out for late model one however; and I also had to modify the brake pedal, which wouldn't clear the header - hacked off the brake-switch spring spindle & replaced the mechanical switch with a pressure switch (which fits in place of the banjo bolt); For the airbox I cut off ~ 1/2 the scoop and relocated the air temp sensor (note suggestion above re airbox however)

Here's mine - Daytona Motor into T509 Thread

Started the project on Sat 17th & had it fired up a week later. Road it round the block a couple of times this weekend but still waiting for a couple of parts (most notably the exhaust) to be able to drive in earnest - but already can feel the power! Did it all myself, even removing & installing the motor (paid the next door landscape guy $5 to help me get the motor crate out of the truck - that was it!)

 

[ckassen]

Could you give me some more info on what you did with your radiator, for right now that is my current problem, everything els appears to be alright. I have to go but did you put in a complete new harness or just kinda mixed the 2?
John

 

[ckassen]

What I did was simply keep my original wiring harness and just rewire it with the 02 daytona harness, by changing some of the connectors. With the tach and speedometer, will they give the right readings since they are off of a 00RS or will the tach and everything be all screwed up?

As soon as I get this radiator stuff figured out, I will be able to start it up, but until then....I just wont know.
John

 

[DEcosse]

Complete new harness - as I re-read your thread it appears you are trying to mix the two and maybe even using the original ECM? That is certainly a challenging way to go.
My recommendation would be to advise you to use the complete new harness - & the new ECM too. You need that (& the new instruments too).
Seems like the hybrid could work but certainly not trivial.

Things like the air idle control will be problematic I would expect.
I guess it's possible to integrate the old ECM and just use the effectively new sensor locations (in which case you would ignore the 02 of course) - you would have to develop your own tune - I guess starting with the pre-02 and modifying from there.

Incidentally there is a separate cable available for the regulator which you may find helpful - there is one laced into the harness itself but this was subject to a service advisory & replaced with an external one of higher current rating. Incidentally if you look at the pic of my bike from the right side, you can just see the regulator protruding below the side panel - on the outside of the battery box, just below the seat (seemed like a good location where it could get good air cooling)

My earlier comment on the fuel level sensor applies to the late harness & ECM of course.

Here's the radiator integration

I used a filler neck off a Honda CBR1000RR -

I just scoured E-Bay to find something suitable. I'm sure there will be other choices too.
My new engine's hoses lower hose to water pump Tee's off at the bottom & comes back up to that small connection below the main return from the head - then later still model, hose configuration has a separate small hose that connects directly into similar location as the upper of the two bottom connections on the old radiator and of course there's no TEE off the bottom hose, just one piece to the pump.
I just left the hoses of my new motor as-is (with TEE at the bottom) and plugged off the upper of those two bottom connections on the radiator; however you could equally use the later bottom hoses and connect to both. (look at the parts fiche on Bike Bandit & you'll see the difference between the hoses)
Either way is fine, especially if you already have the hoses from one or the other.
For the top connection, I was able to cut a section from one of the old original hoses that gave me the almost exact shape required with the bends.

 

[ckassen]

The wiring of my bike is relatively simple and not as complicated as it may seem. The bike is supposed to run 'ok' on its current tune, but I dont know what it will redline at, most likely 9,500rpm since that is what it is stock on the 00RS but I think the guages should work ok, or at least the speedo, engine temp, and other little stuff will work correctly since I have kept the 00 RS harness. The only thing would be the tach, I dont know how that is going to work, I am hoping it will be correct, although the 00RS only goes to 11,000rpm instead of what, 13,500rpms; or something like that on the 02 Daytona.

Anyways, the biggest challenge I have now would be the radiator. From the picture, your radiator itself is totally different from mine which could be a problem. Everything on my radiator will match up, except the small metal hose type thing, right under the large upper radiator hose. I dont know what to do with that. If you could give me your email I could send you a picture of what I am talking about, because i am not able to put pics on the forum. Or if you could just give me a picture of the lower area of the radiator, so I could see how you ran your hoses.

 

[DEcosse]

I sent an e-mail via the link to your T-Rat registered e-mail - you should be able to reply directly to that
(Don't like to post up my address directly - spam spiders)

The radiators themselves may be different in detail (& mounting because of the frame differences) but essentially the 'gozinta's' & 'gozouta's' should be similar (since the engine generations were similar before & after in both cases)

A good resource for comparing Parts is to go to BikeBandit where you can pull up all the BOM's for all the Triumphs.
They appear to be similar other than the mechanical radiator assembly

 

[ckassen]

Here, unfortunetally that email doesnt work anymore, my email is [email protected].

I think what I will do is take the water bypass hose (that small one that is close to the upper radiator hose) and tee that off with the radiator to water pump hose(the really long one at the bottom.
John

 

[DEcosse]

On 2007-03-05 22:14, ckassen wrote:
I think what I will do is take the water bypass hose (that small one that is close to the upper radiator hose) and tee that off with the radiator to water pump hose(the really long one at the bottom.

That's exactly how mine is - the 02+ motors were originally configured exactly like that with the OEM hose arrangement; then on later engines, they changed to add another port on the bottom of the radiator, to take the bypass hose directly to radiator instead of TEEing to the lower hose.
I'll take another pic tomorrow with the whole hose arrangement including the bottom TEE - that will make more sense.

Note - with my radiator, with the additional (lets call it intermediate) lower port, I could have used that for the bypass hose; but since I already had hoses for the TEE'd version with my motor, was easier (sic cheaper) to just keep the hoses I had & blank off that intermediate port.
I sent parts listings for the BOM's so you can see difference between the hose configurations; either wil work, whichever is easier for your particular radiator or hoses on hand.

Here's the late model hose arrangement:

& here's mine with the earlier hose arrangement (the top hose should of course normally be identical to the one above, going over to the right side of the radiator, but the modification entails the return via the filler neck to the left side)
Although the bypass hose is partially obscured you can hopefully make out that it comes down & TEE's into the bottom pump hose.
Again, clearly I could have used new hoses per the above configuration & routed the bypass directly to the intermediate connection that I have plugged.

[ This message was edited by: DEcosse on 2007-03-06 10:22 ]

 

[ckassen]

Thanks for the pictures, they have been a GREAT GREAT help. I am just going to run the bypass to a TEE, that would be easiest. I can just cut a part of the lower hose out and fit the TEE in just fine.

On the whole wiring thing, I have already wired the entire bike up, along with the regulator, the ECU and everything is all ready to go. So I dont plan on jacking with anything now, unless something goes wrong.

I have found out the the ECU on the 00RS and the 02 Daytona are the exact same part number and everything, so when I remap mine to the Daytona it SHOULD work alright.