[DuckoT_955i]

Hello everybody,

Pardon the long post, new member here, have been lurking on these forums for a few hours now, and I feel it's better to post in an atempt to clear my doubts, before I make a mistake.

I'm about to jump on a used bike deal - a very sweet 2002 Daytona 955i and it's a Centennial Edition, which I've lusted for many years (not quite the unicorn, but close).
The deal is going to be made through a small dealer of used motorcycles, which will also take in my old bike (GSXR1100-WP) to cover most of the expense with the purchase of this '02 Daytona 995i.

Before proceeding with my doubts/questions, I must say that I've owned a 1999 Daytona T595i many years ago and didn't have any reliability problems during the three years that I had it. This is one of the reasons why I felt confident to go for this 2002 Daytona 955i deal.
Also, that I'm not mechanically inclined, and certainly not into the electrical side of maintenance things, though I do know a motorcycle mechanic who may assist.
And that I live in Europe, so getting parts outside the E.U. gets expensive and also takes much longer to receive.

Anyways, and to my dismay, I now read some concerning things about the (weak) charging system, stator and rectifier issues in these models.
I was not aware of any of this, but I'm glad the members here (great community) got into it and share the knowledge:

• Weak charging system? - the solution
• Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade

So, I read these and other threads where this weak charging system issue is mentioned, and the possible solutions.
To be frank, it's a bit too much information for my small brain, not quite sure which is the most practical (easiest?) solution to prevent possible uncoming issues.

I've read the differences between Series and Shunt R/R, the different Shindengen models, etc.
It seems one also needs cables, 30A fuses, connectors and a heatsink plate...
Then it seems that there is a more "plug n play" solution (but is it?) according to this post of DEcosse: Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade

.........

So, at the end of it, here I am, confused about these issues, now very insecure about the deal, and why I look for your advice, what to do regarding this possible issue.
My questions are:

1. Is it a given that the '02 Daytona 955i charging system will fail at some point and leave me stranded, followed by more expenses in repairs?
   
   
2. Supposing that it is, and if I really need to go this preventive route with R/R and etc, which of these particular solutions is the easiest to do and least costly?
   (again, note that I'm in the E.U.)
   
   
3. Are there are other problematic aspects specific to the post-2001 955i models that should be noted?

Many thanks for any assistance in advance!
Cheers!

 

[DuckoT_955i]

Not sure why my post is not showing up, but here's a bump.

 

[DaveG]

To be honest no-one knows if your bike is going to fail. It's true that the charging system on all Daytona's is weak , however that is the case with many bikes. I have a friend who keeps a spare regulator under his seat on an SV650! I would fit a small voltmeter and keep an eye on it and if it starts to drop then head for home as fast as possible , with luck you will make it on the battery before you break down.

Oh and while you have the drivers seat off check to see if there are any overheating in the yellow wires or fuse box and question the seller if the R/R has been changed....

The pleasure far out weighs any of the potential charging issues you may meet!

 

[sussurf]

Many motorcycles have weak electrical/charging systems.
These are not too difficult to remedy with a bit of research and minimal skills. Mainly upgrade the heavy wires & connectors in the starter & charging system & upgrade the RR to MOSFET or SERIES as described in the articles.
Then you'll have a pretty reliable bike.

 

[h_aapalahti]

The thing that you are in EU makes it much easier, parts are easy to get second hand from places like Boonstra motoren Netherlands. Change the reg/rec to Shindengen Series type, do the fusebox bypass and you're pretty much golden

 

[DuckoT_955i]

Thanks so much to everybody replying!

The thing that you are in EU makes it much easier, parts are easy to get second hand from places like Boonstra motoren Netherlands. Change the reg/rec to Shindengen Series type, do the fusebox bypass and you're pretty much golden

Sounds like a plan then.
I'm unable to do this on my own, but was just on the phone with the mechanich who can assist me.

Anyways, next week should be time to close the deal and bring the '02 955iCE into my stable..... 🤞

 

[DuckoT_955i]

OK, more questions about the RR swap/upgrade on the '02 Daytona 955i (C.E.)....

So, if I understood correctly, is this what I should get then?

• Shindengen Series type R/R ?
  ...but which one?
  The FH012AA and FH020AA are the most affordable of the bunch (plenty around for 50,00€, 2nd hand) but it seems being "MOSFET" they'll shorten the life of the stator.
  I see that the SH775, used in Polaris models, may be a better solution than these also for the big Triples(?) because it's not MOSFET but SCR, which translates in lower temps and less wear to the stator - is this one worth going for, to fit on a '02 Daytona 955?
  The most recommended I see is the SH847AA (Suzuki part n. 32800-31J00-000 , for VSTROM 1000 years 2014-2021), which is also not MOSFET and therefore better for the stator life. Problems is, this is a LOT more expensive from what I'm seeing in the interweb (275,00€+ for the R/R alone!). Is it really worth considering its high price?
  
  
• Reinforced cables (with aproppriate terminals) ?
  I presume the mentioned adapter cables from Triumph (part n. T2500676 , "Link Lead") are good for any of the mentioned Shindengen R/Rs ?
  I ask this because I see posts with people "making their own" (higher gauge), and this is the part that gets me confused which way to go.
  
  
• Fusebox bypass ?
  If using the mentioned Triumph "Link Lead" (part n. T2500676) won't it be plug n'play and dispense the fusebox bypass?
  No idea how to do this (it's all chinese to me) but ASAP I'll show threads/posts where this stuff is mentioned to the mechanic, who may understand it right away.

Hope you can help me with these questions, and many thanks in advance. 🙂

 

[h_aapalahti]

Kfm-motoraeder has Shindengen Sh847 for under 200€, that's best deal I could find when I did mine last winter. Suzuki Genuine Motorcycle spare parts - KFM-Motorraeder SH847 performs great, charging voltage is very stabile through rev range, it always stays at 14.4-14.5V. You can use one of those MOSFET types too, they are widely used in multiple makes and models and work well but they do indeed stress your stator lot more as it always charges at maximum current.

 

[DuckoT_955i]

Thanks h_aapalahti

Still a bit expensive and... not in stock. sigh

Alternatives I see are SH847 (what I presume to be chinese replicas) found on spanish Amazon...

....or the more affordable SH775 on Ebay for Europe.


What's your opinion on these R/R?


Also, I can order the Triumph "Link Lead" (part n. T2500676) part from Spain at ~30,00€ (+postage).

Is this "Link Lead" a plug n' play reliable solution to fit these Shindengen R/R in the 2002-2006 Daytona 955i ?

Thanks for any replies.

 

[h_aapalahti]

Thanks h_aapalahti

Still a bit expensive and... not in stock.

View attachment 786852



The alternatives I have are (what I presume to be) SH847 chinese replicas found on spanish Amazon:

View attachment 786854


....or the more affordable SH775 found on Ebay:

These chinese replicas are crappy shunt units that fail after month. Budget solution would be second hand MOSFET one from somewhere like Boonstra motoren as they go from 50€ and there is plenty to select from, those Polaris original smaller capacity series units sometimes pop on ebay too. It's expensive upgrade but IMHO if it prevents you from being stranded road side in the middle of nothing even once it sure is worth it. And those stators are not free either, it's good to prevent it from frying itself.

 

[h_aapalahti]

These chinese replicas are crappy shunt units that fail after month. Budget solution would be second hand MOSFET one from somewhere like Boonstra motoren as they go from 50€ and there is plenty to select from, those Polaris original smaller capacity series units sometimes pop on ebay too. It's expensive upgrade but IMHO if it prevents you from being stranded road side in the middle of nothing even once it sure is worth it. And those stators are not free either, it's good to prevent it from frying itself.

When my reg/rec failed my charging voltage was 16.8V @ 5000rpm, it surely would have blown every normal bulb if I wasn't running all LED and ECU could have gone too if driven any longer, this is a problem that can be expensive if not dealt with.

 

[DuckoT_955i]

Ok, understood. New or used, must be genuine Shindengen.

Is the SH775 (used in Polaris models) a viable R/R solution for the 2002-2006 Daytona 955i ?

And is the Triumph "Link Lead" (part n. T2500676) a plug n' play reliable solution to fit these Shindengen R/R in the 2002-2006 Daytona 955i ?

 

[Dantona]

I have recently bought a 2003 955i, spent a lot of time doing a bit of a general recondition, full service and some upgrades.

After some research i went with a MOSFET upgrade to the R/R. Using the plug and play link lead i have fitted a FH020AA reg/rec. It works nicely and voltage regulation is great, does not get hot at all.

Don't buy anything Chinese from eBay etc. Get a genuine part. The FH020AA is fitted to quite a lot of modern bikes. I have a second hand one which came off a low mileage 899 Ducati, costs me $60aud delivered. If you familiarise yourself with what they look like, you can search eBay for a "regulator rectifier" and then trawl through the ads to find one at a low price. They will have "FH020AA" printed on them, so you can confirm what part it is via the photos of the item.

This is the only modifications i have carried out to the charging system. The fuses and wiring seem fine. I have otherwise fitted a lithium battery and upgraded some of the wiring to the starter solenoid

 

[DuckoT_955i]

Well, I went to see the bike in the flesh and, in the end, the old adage applies... "if it looks too good to be true, it probably isn't true".
I was, to be frank, quite confused, if not really shocked.... ...it definitely did not look like the same motorcycle in the pictures posted by the seller.

Every single screw (and I really mean every single one!) is rusted, same for the chain and the exhaust headers....
The (supposed) carbon parts of the 955i C.E. in this one were instead plastic with cheap carbon vinyl over them....
The fuse box was burned, and the 30A fuse has been remedied with a loose wire amateur solution....

Testing with a multimeter it couldn't hold more than 13.2v with the engine running from idle upto 5000RPM, with brief sporadic 14.0v values over 5.000 RPM.
The engine sounded good with the Yoshimura end can but, yeah, I think that was the sole good aspect to be noticed.

The poor thing was neglected, and the worst that I can remember on any used bike dealer. Shame on the previous owner, you don't do that to such a marvellous machine.

Unfortunately, other post-2002 Daytonas advertised are beyond my budget, so I'll call it quits for now.

I want to express my gratitude to everybody who assisted, you're all an example of what makes this a great community. Thank You.

 

[brisabiker]

Well, I went to see the bike in the flesh and, in the end, the old adage applies... "if it looks too good to be true, it probably isn't true".
I was, to be frank, quite confused, if not really shocked.... ...it definitely did not look like the same motorcycle in the pictures posted by the seller.

Every single screw (and I really mean every single one!) is rusted, same for the chain and the exhaust headers....
The (supposed) carbon parts of the 955i C.E. in this one were instead plastic with cheap carbon vinyl over them....
The fuse box was burned, and the 30A fuse has been remedied with a loose wire amateur solution....

Testing with a multimeter it couldn't hold more than 13.2v with the engine running from idle upto 5000RPM, with brief sporadic 14.0v values over 5.000 RPM.
The engine sounded good with the Yoshimura end can but, yeah, I think that was the sole good aspect to be noticed.

The poor thing was neglected, and the worst that I can remember on any used bike dealer. Shame on the previous owner, you don't do that to such a marvellous machine.

Unfortunately, other post-2002 Daytonas advertised are beyond my budget, so I'll call it quits for now.

I want to express my gratitude to everybody who assisted, you're all an example of what makes this a great community. Thank You.

Hi, are you still looking for a 2002 Daytona 955 CE?
I have one in Scotland, British racing green, low mileage, in great condition. I have updated the alternator wiring and fitted a new reg/rec from ElectrexWorld(have receipts).
If you are interested, let me know and we could discuss.
Regards, Gordon