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I couldn't find a thread for this model with photos. I'll take some photos as this progresses. Maybe some video, except my harddrives are full.
Look Here First
The workshop manual is useless. It reads like Triumph wants only dealers to work on their bikes, with secret "dealer codes" and "passwords" required to do basic electrical checks via handheld computer code reader. No illustration in workshop manual, no description how to remove it nor test it. No mention in manual what that 30 amp fuse is that's located beside the battery.
New battery. Old one had one cell bulging, very low volts, would not hold a charge. This is my 3rd battery in 3,500 miles.
Maintence charger is 1 amp at 14.5 volts (Black & Decker at Walmart, with green light = OFF, and yellow light = CHARGE). I've I'll post video of what the bad battery/charger combo looked like (14.5 volts to 7 volts to 14.5 in 1 second intervals).
1st day with new battery and it ran all day, about 5 starts, then display started cutting out, then failed to start at midnight at a gas station. No hill, so had to enlist a pusher. Bump started in 6th, rode home fine, voltage 11.5 with engine off.
So now I'll start testing Voltage Regulator/Rectifier and Stator, with mods to larger-gage wiring and upgrade to higher amp regulator and move to cooler part of chassis. This seems to be a common and expensive defect, but not so bad with aftermarket parts and DIY (80% discount).
Switch OFF = 12.83 volts GOOD (12.5 volts +)
Switch ON = 11.94 volts LOW (12.0 volts +)
Idle = 12.37 volts FAIL (13.0 to 14.5 volts)
5000 RPM = 12.22 volts FAIL (13.0 to 14.5 volts)
Rear fuses OK
Front fuses OK
30 amp rear fuse OK (located beside battery, starter solenoid or voltage regulator? Not in workshop manual)
Are there any other fuses?
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier appears to be behind the engine, under the gas tank, in the hottest part of the bike.
QUESTION: What's the proper way to remove this fuel tank? Best way to remove fuel? Are there any special tricks to disconnecting fuel lines and vent lines of the fuel injection system on the tank?
Headlight ON/OFF DPDT 2-position switch spliced into negative headlight wire each side 1/2 inch from bulb connector. Soldered connections with heat shrink and silicone rubber potting on switch terminals. Rubber switch cover is ordered from ham radio electronics store.
HEADLIGHT MOD - Headlight on/off switch works good, but requires double-OFF after engine shuts down or some panel lights remain half-on, such as Hi-Beam. Perhaps the off switch prevents a capacitor from discharge? When OFF it raises voltage 0.25 volts to 12.22 volts with ignition ON, which was not enough to solve this problem, but maybe helped a little to bump start, and might help survive RR/stator failure when daytime riding with lights off. I'll post photos of the mod with a new thread.
I bought a Triumph because its was $1,000 cheaper than other 600 race replicas, despite Triumph's bad rep for reliability. Besides, the dealer was only 1 mile away. What could go wrong with a new bike? Dealer soon went out of business, then the electrical gremlins hatched...
Here I am shooting video at Deals Gap 1 hour prior to Epic Fail:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7051357740105436260
He had his mom with "terminal cancer" in the back seat having a blast, Florida to Alaska to a Caribbean biker cruise. 100s of lights and strobes and videocams and radios and GPS. THAT'S the kind of reliability I'm looking for. Do I have to buy a Honda?
Look Here First
The workshop manual is useless. It reads like Triumph wants only dealers to work on their bikes, with secret "dealer codes" and "passwords" required to do basic electrical checks via handheld computer code reader. No illustration in workshop manual, no description how to remove it nor test it. No mention in manual what that 30 amp fuse is that's located beside the battery.
New battery. Old one had one cell bulging, very low volts, would not hold a charge. This is my 3rd battery in 3,500 miles.
Maintence charger is 1 amp at 14.5 volts (Black & Decker at Walmart, with green light = OFF, and yellow light = CHARGE). I've I'll post video of what the bad battery/charger combo looked like (14.5 volts to 7 volts to 14.5 in 1 second intervals).
1st day with new battery and it ran all day, about 5 starts, then display started cutting out, then failed to start at midnight at a gas station. No hill, so had to enlist a pusher. Bump started in 6th, rode home fine, voltage 11.5 with engine off.
So now I'll start testing Voltage Regulator/Rectifier and Stator, with mods to larger-gage wiring and upgrade to higher amp regulator and move to cooler part of chassis. This seems to be a common and expensive defect, but not so bad with aftermarket parts and DIY (80% discount).
Switch OFF = 12.83 volts GOOD (12.5 volts +)
Switch ON = 11.94 volts LOW (12.0 volts +)
Idle = 12.37 volts FAIL (13.0 to 14.5 volts)
5000 RPM = 12.22 volts FAIL (13.0 to 14.5 volts)
Rear fuses OK
Front fuses OK
30 amp rear fuse OK (located beside battery, starter solenoid or voltage regulator? Not in workshop manual)
Are there any other fuses?
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier appears to be behind the engine, under the gas tank, in the hottest part of the bike.
QUESTION: What's the proper way to remove this fuel tank? Best way to remove fuel? Are there any special tricks to disconnecting fuel lines and vent lines of the fuel injection system on the tank?

Headlight ON/OFF DPDT 2-position switch spliced into negative headlight wire each side 1/2 inch from bulb connector. Soldered connections with heat shrink and silicone rubber potting on switch terminals. Rubber switch cover is ordered from ham radio electronics store.
HEADLIGHT MOD - Headlight on/off switch works good, but requires double-OFF after engine shuts down or some panel lights remain half-on, such as Hi-Beam. Perhaps the off switch prevents a capacitor from discharge? When OFF it raises voltage 0.25 volts to 12.22 volts with ignition ON, which was not enough to solve this problem, but maybe helped a little to bump start, and might help survive RR/stator failure when daytime riding with lights off. I'll post photos of the mod with a new thread.
I bought a Triumph because its was $1,000 cheaper than other 600 race replicas, despite Triumph's bad rep for reliability. Besides, the dealer was only 1 mile away. What could go wrong with a new bike? Dealer soon went out of business, then the electrical gremlins hatched...
Here I am shooting video at Deals Gap 1 hour prior to Epic Fail:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7051357740105436260
He had his mom with "terminal cancer" in the back seat having a blast, Florida to Alaska to a Caribbean biker cruise. 100s of lights and strobes and videocams and radios and GPS. THAT'S the kind of reliability I'm looking for. Do I have to buy a Honda?