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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, Help needed please!

I own an '04 Daytona 600, and have recently done a lot of work to it. I have had to replace the stator/generator twice on it over the last 2 years, due to what I was told was a manufacturing fault with the magnet in the rotor being too strong and burning them out. I had checked the regulator/rectifier which was ok. Anyway, this worked OK once replaced but the 3rd time it happened I decided to take advice and go for a permanent solution and get a new rotor as well so got the following off Electrexworld:

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/g660-ro660-generator-and-rotor-8962-0.html

Up to this point I did all the work myself, but I didn't have the tools to take off the rotor so booked it into my local garage to replace it along with giving the bike the once over.

The guys fitted the new generator and rotor, but as soon as I pulled out of the garage I knew something was up. The bike was making more noise internally than previous and also started dripping fuel and cutting out at low revs (not good in the middle of London traffic!). So I went back to the garage.

1st thing noticed when back in the garage was a drip from the underside of the fuel tank, and the fuel pump was rusted out (supposedly due to water in the tank??) so that was replaced, then the battery was replaced as it was done, and they also changed the sparks. They checked the new rotor/generator and everything looked ok and supply was going to the battery. So I took it home thinking it was just foul luck everything happened to hit the bike at the same time.

I then didn't go near the bike for a few weeks as I was recovering from wrist surgery. When I did, it wouldn't start, when I charged it I could get it started but it would struggle and cut out at idle and then after a few restarts the battery charge seemed to disappear very easily. At this stage I opened up the alternator cover just to make sure everything was ok with the generator (all ok), and even changed the oil back to semi synth instead of the fully synth the garage put in it (whether that has an effect I don't know). But alas it is still struggling. And the noisier internals (low clanking noise) that weren't there before I got all the work done are now a permanent feature.

my only thought is that the louder internals has got to be something to do with the current problems. But I don't know what they are associated with to check. Sparks? Electrics? :confused:

Any advice on what to look/check for would help?
 

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I have had a similar experience. I went through three electrex stators and rotors before they finally admitted defeat and sent me to to Triumph. The OEM stator/rr combo cost me £700.00, but its been running like a charm ever since. You could import one for less I'm sure. I was just so fed up by that point that I paid it. The tech guy at Electrex said that the generic stators they used as a base couldn't hope to operate correctly under the solder melting temps of that part of the D6 engine. The Triumph parts were manufactured out of vastly superior materials. In addition, they only tested those particular stators on the tt600, which makes less demand on the electrical system than the D6.
A cheap digital multimeter across the battery will tell you what you need to know. Whatever it reads when the bike is switched off, it should rise by at least one full volt when the bike is running (at all rpm)
For a guide, my D6 runs at 14.2 volts.
There is lots of info about testing your charging system here, I personally have a few dozen pages documenting my stator nightmare.
The clanking noise is your bike trying to scrape enough charge together to keep the ignition circuit primed.


ps: There is an oil way to the stator that goes someway towards keeping it below critical temperature. Its a 5mm hole at the top of the casing. The hole in the supplied gasket is only about 1mm wide to maintain oil pressure to the head, so be careful when slapping the gasket sealer round that area.
 

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pps: I was ready to set fire to mine at several stages during the 'stator nightmare'. Now I have it all sorted, its an astonishing piece of engineering ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for that mate. I am very glad that its not just me hearing things, and I know what the problem is. I was also ready to set the bike on fire after so much annoyance!

I have a multimeter at home so will check it out tonight. But just to clarify, the Electrex parts I got are no good for the D6? This would make sense I guess in the fact that it doesn't seem to be charging the bike as easy as it did before.

Any suggestions on where I can source the OEM parts for cheapness?

I think I might have to bite the bullet and call the Triumph garage.
 

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I took 3 stators and 2 r/r's back to Electrex in quick succession. I was reluctant to go through Triumph given the massive price, especially as I was of the opinion that it was Triumph's design team responsible for the heat issue!
Sometimes they worked for a 1000 miles, sometimes for 1. I am surprised that they are still hawking them out to D6 owners to be honest. I went through the whole 'magnet too strong' experiments with them too. The closest I got to success was a combo that supplied a charging voltage at 1600rpm and above, nil below that.
I might be completely wide of the mark here, and hope that I am, but your multimeter should confirm whats going on.
While never a reliable gauge, you could always pull off the case and check the stator itself. As a result of oil levels and cooling in that area, the top third of the stator is usually the bit that goes crispy.
I know that a few on here swear by Rick's in the States. I think DEcosse has posted a sticky on stator sources. I would definitely consider having one shipped. I would very much doubt you finding a suitably high quality aftermarket stator in the uk. There is a company called Cornish Windings, who would be prepared to rewind your original, but from memory it was quite pricey.
That said, someone might see this and hopefully prove me wrong!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, I finally got round to it. I even put a brand new, fully charged battery into the bike to take care of that question.

When I fired it up it actually sounded great and I had a couple of seconds of joy thinking it was just needing a new battery, then it started to splutter and struggle and after about a minute it cut out.

So I took my multimeter to it and measured the battery Voltage on the bike with the ignition off, the ignition on but not the bike, and finally with the bike running at idle. I got the following:

Off: 12.6
Ignition on: 12.1
Bike running at idle: 12.5

I was actually a little relieved as I was told by the garage I got to put the rotor in that the battery was receiving charge, and as you do I believed them. But from the time I took it home it hasn't been right.

The question I have now is, can I take more readings to definitively state to BBBikeshop (forgot but I actually used them instead of Electrex) that its the new rotor/stator combo that is the problem? and also, should I be checking the R/R to make sure it is ok? anything else?

Am I better to go to Triumph at this stage and get the proper rotor? Or perhaps one of the online breakers/parts suppliers? Anyone know one to recommend?

Thanks again for the advice. This has been going on for 3 months!!!!!! Finally I see the light.
 

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I would go back to your local garage, and get them to confirm its the stator. Tell them what you have discovered about aftermarket stators for your bike.
If they will, also get the local garage to deal with the supplier, and explain that you don't want a replacement, you want a refund.
Then get a OEM stator and rotor and r/r, and I have a feeling your troubles will melt away ;)
By all means have a hunt round the breakers etc, I didn't have much luck. Because they are prone to failure, that part is pretty rare. Paying top whack at the dealers was painful, but every night I came home, checked my voltage and saw 14.xx every time, the pain subsided gradually ;)
Whomever ends up fitting the upgrade, ensure they know there is a pinhole oil way at the top of the gasket that should not be obstructed.
To recap:

Your battery should read 12.xx volts when out of commission. It is likely to drop when you turn on the ignition, but when you fire up the bike you should see at LEAST one full volt increase from 12.xx
Mine reads 14.1 to 14.2 at all rpm, including idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow, called the Triumph garage today and got quoted about £500 for the rotor, £500 for the stator and £200 for the R/R. At this stage that's a hit I can't afford. Can you let me know where you sourced yours mate? OEM website or something?

Out of interest, if I just replace the rotor would that be enough? The stator was a reconditioned one that is only just on the bike and hasn't burned out.........
 

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I think rotor, stator and R/R cost me £700+ from Onyertriumph in Aylesbury.

I have used this site in the past

http://www.worldoftriumph.com/

I think its convention to change stator and rotor as a pair. I suspect Triumph will insist upon it.

How do you know your stator is still OK? Its often impossible to tell by looking at them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't. I did assume if the stator is new then it should be grand. I also just spoke to my garage who informed me that on most bikes when they change a rotor they change the R/R. I wish they told me that before I drove it out of there!

I'm learning as I go! I think its best for me to get the bike back to the garage to check fully the stator/rotor and the R/R. I'll then be able to source the kit based on their recommendations.

thanks again for the help mate.
 

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There are tons of write ups on here about stator and r/r replacement and modding. Also many, many threads warning to stay away from Electrex. I used Ricksmotorelectrics.com here in the state. I believe the may ship over seas. Voltage should be 12.xx with the battery at rest 13.xx idling and around 14.xx at 5k rpm unless the r/r connection has been modified. Definitely look for threads by DeCosse, he has cover this a lot for the D600. I'd be interested to know where to get a new rotor though. Just replaced my stator and r/r and still having some issues.
 
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