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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, so call me crazy.... and the purists that read my title have already turned their backs in shame, but here we go.

I currently ride an America which I rescued from being written off... and the Triumph affair started (Been a Kawasaki man forever before that)

So I’ve been looking at older bikes to restore and cafe’ as a project with my sons.... and then what should pop up, but a friend with a low km D600 that was stolen and recovered. The poor thing has been painted Matt black with pressure packs, had the ignition smashed, mirrors and indicators torn off, multiple fairing cracks..... but recovered after a few hundred k’s. He was going to farm it out for parts.... but as you’ve guessed, I hate seeing bikes scrapped.

The stance and layout of it look perfect for a naked conversion, I guess thanks to Triumphs naked bike heritage. But the modern lines of the frame and tank will be interesting to overcome.

I’m already on the hunt for a Thruxton/Speedmaster headlight assembly with the ’T’ insignia in the glass to make it as ‘original’ looking as possible...

So questions are......
1/ Has anyone heard or seen or attempted this?
2/ Does anyone know if a different (rounder/smoother) tank might fit?
3/ Any feedback on how crazy I am would be also appreciated!!

723017
 

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I'm sure it's been attempted, but I haven't seen the results. I can't answer your second question, and the answer to your third questions is that you are nut, but it's a great nuts. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
723294

Day 1.
So, today it's started. With the help of my lads, fairings are all off and getting a better picture of what's going on.

Bit of flat black overspray on the engine, but engine looks clean. They've cut the original muffler off, and welded another pipe on right where it goes from 2 into 1... so looks like that's coming off and being redone. They've managed to weld the bolts in place at the muffler connection too.
723293


Coolant bottle in the rear cowl was a surprise, hiding that in a cafe tail is going to be interesting!! But it looks like I'll have to fabricate a custom frame anyway.

Rear wiring loom has been cut and spliced and 're-routed, annoying but fairly easy to trace.
723295


Headlights out, but of course the indicator wiring has been cut there too. Ignition is all smashed out, so might just go a generic lock... (any suggestion would be appreciated).

Will take the headlight/instrument support and air intake ducts out in the morning and start measuring up for a new headlight.
723296
 

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Following your project with interest!
Since you have to do a lot of rewiring anyway, you might consider using a MotoGadget from
shop.revivalcycles.com/motogadget-m-unit-blue/
It does almost everything in wiring including ignition, lights, horn, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Following your project with interest!
Since you have to do a lot of rewiring anyway, you might consider using a MotoGadget from
shop.revivalcycles.com/motogadget-m-unit-blue/
It does almost everything in wiring including ignition, lights, horn, etc.
I'm looking at it now, I like the simplicity .... and the push button keyless start, for about the same price as a triumph ignition barrel!
Will definitely investigate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another big day... more looking and scratching my head than anything else!

Ripped out the dodgy rear wiring, the main loom is still there but spliced into and empty connectors left behind, I'll have to track down a wiring diagram some time soon. Cleaned off most of the flat back overspray.

723437


Headlight support and instrument panel removed. Bunch of relays and little fuse box for the front lights that will need relocating.
I'm actually hoping that I might be able to mount them inside the rear of the new headlight assembly.

723436


Getting a better feel for the stance of it clean, should look good.

723438
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So, decided I'll probably run a single 7" bullet LED headlight, which will remove a 3rd of the wiring and relays pictured above. Next job is tank off, so I can trace the loom... then I'll make a new one to replace it.

Just wondering, has anyone got the seat and rear cowl off their bike at the moment? Would be helpful to see the rear wiring looms as they should be! Not like...

723666


I don't suppose anyone would have a wiring diagram of the lighting system they could email. I'm conscious of copyright etc..... but I've been waiting for the one and only Triumph dealer in town to get back to me for a week!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quick update and some questions...

I've started trying to cut back the black paint on the tank and it seems to be working
723964


Trying hard not to damage the clear coat too much, but eventually I'm going to customise the tank.

Ordered a new headlight and muffler, which hopefully arrive next week.

  • Question - bar end mirrors, whose fitted them and is there much involved? There is a small thread in the end at the moment about 5 or 6mm. Do the mirrors go into that, or does that whole end need to come out?
 

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The whole end typically comes out, but you may find mirrors that thread into the what's already there. It depends a bit on the bar ends, and I don't remember what the bar ends are like on a D6 or TT600.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the reply Will, I'll keep researching.

Managed to track down someone with a manual and now have a wiring diagram.... spent The weekend tracing wires and now have a full set of lights up and running.
Now that I have headlights, my next task is to work out the wiring to go back to a single headlight.

Also spent some time working on the tank.... and must say I'm pretty happy with the result.

724364
 

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No kidding! That looks fantastic. Did you use a polishing wheel and slowly take it off that way, or did you use a chemical method? I'm curious because I have a bass amplifier head that has flat black paint over the original finish. I like the original finish much better but haven't done much work removing the flat black.
 

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15887837658472667799009709573591.jpg

Some sort of cafeish remake of older 98 t595 here. Custom rear frame, m-unit blue, G2 daytona 955 engine etc. Still some work to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No kidding! That looks fantastic. Did you use a polishing wheel and slowly take it off that way, or did you use a chemical method? I'm curious because I have a bass amplifier head that has flat black paint over the original finish. I like the original finish much better but haven't done much work removing the flat black.
Hey Will,

I did most of it by hand, started with a 1000 wet/dry paper until I could see the black getting 'thin'. Then switched to 2000 on the areas that were still black. Once I could see through the majority of the black I went to a straight cutting compound.
I'll admit that I did use a polishing wheel on a few areas on the flat at this stage where there was still a build up of the black.
The rest I did by hand with the curting compound. Once all the black was nearly gone I switched to a cut and polish.... that's where I'm at. There's only 1 spot I've found where I got carried away and I can see some marks in the clear coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
View attachment 724470
Some sort of cafeish remake of older 98 t595 here. Custom rear frame, m-unit blue, G2 daytona 955 engine etc. Still some work to do.
Interesting build! I was really keen on the m.unit blue, but in their own admition it's a massive job to wire an EFI bike.

So now I'm looking at an m.lock instead. I've looked at making my own unit (as I like doing as much myself as I can) but all the rfid readers I can find don't seem appropriate.... wrong voltage etc.) And too be fair, the m.lock is on sale at the moment so it's very tempting.
 

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Interesting build! I was really keen on the m.unit blue, but in their own admition it's a massive job to wire an EFI bike.

So now I'm looking at an m.lock instead. I've looked at making my own unit (as I like doing as much myself as I can) but all the rfid readers I can find don't seem appropriate.... wrong voltage etc.) And too be fair, the m.lock is on sale at the moment so it's very tempting.
Massive job indeed, but at least these older Hincley machines wiring looms look like s*** with electro tape insulation that I absolutely hate and even though I found brand new speed triple loom I was'nt going to intall it without doing something to it. Also found out that the build quality in the loom is not that great, I got rid of all the aluminium staples that were used to combine wires and soldered them to have solid contacts. While at it I replaced all original lighting wires, all relays and fusebox with m-unit blue and wrapped wiring loom in black self closing polyester sleeve. I think it was like 3 or 4 day job, would have been faster but I had wrong wiring scheme for a couple days, colours were off and had to be extra careful not to cut off something critical.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Massive job indeed, but at least these older Hincley machines wiring looms look like s*** with electro tape insulation that I absolutely hate and even though I found brand new speed triple loom I was'nt going to intall it without doing something to it. Also found out that the build quality in the loom is not that great, I got rid of all the aluminium staples that were used to combine wires and soldered them to have solid contacts. While at it I replaced all original lighting wires, all relays and fusebox with m-unit blue and wrapped wiring loom in black self closing polyester sleeve. I think it was like 3 or 4 day job, would have been faster but I had wrong wiring scheme for a couple days, colours were off and had to be extra careful not to cut off something critical.
I hear you, spent the morning opening the whole front lighting loom, all black and blue electrical tape. Ive removed one light loom for the single headlight and soldered all the crimp connectors as you did. Looking at options to re-bundle it all at the moment.
 

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I hear you, spent the morning opening the whole front lighting loom, all black and blue electrical tape. Ive removed one light loom for the single headlight and soldered all the crimp connectors as you did. Looking at options to re-bundle it all at the moment.
724592
This is my wiring loom after I ruined factorys great effort
IMG_20200407_192721.jpg
😂
 

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Hey Will,

I did most of it by hand, started with a 1000 wet/dry paper until I could see the black getting 'thin'. Then switched to 2000 on the areas that were still black. Once I could see through the majority of the black I went to a straight cutting compound.
I'll admit that I did use a polishing wheel on a few areas on the flat at this stage where there was still a build up of the black.
The rest I did by hand with the curting compound. Once all the black was nearly gone I switched to a cut and polish.... that's where I'm at. There's only 1 spot I've found where I got carried away and I can see some marks in the clear coat.
Thanks. It came out beautifully. I think I'll use your technique to get the paint off the amp's face plate. It's an original 1968 Acoustic 360 bass stack, which means something to me as a bass player, but probably means nothing to a normal person.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks. It came out beautifully. I think I'll use your technique to get the paint off the amp's face plate. It's an original 1968 Acoustic 360 bass stack, which means something to me as a bass player, but probably means nothing to a normal person.
Glad it worked. Depending how far you want to go, you can get polish that follows the same grading as the sandpaper... all the way up to at least 100000! So if your willing to take your time, it can look better than new!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wiring loom 're roughted, so I now have the fuse box and flasher relay under the tank. Headlight in, and the headlight relay inside the headlight bucket (just). Need to work out the height of the headlight now and the best position for the gauges.
724734
 
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