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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks Terry & Greg, I believe it does rev up in neutral but will try again to re-confirm.
Needle jet - long one about inch or so long that needle moves through.. ish.. are not blocked. No markings on them to to tell you sizes. in comparsion to other to other needle jets in my shed these don't have the teeny tiny drill down the length of them.
so yes no blockage in carbs, been out half a dozen times now, re cleaned and inspected. anyone got a link of carb settings?

will look at purchasing cdi or as rule out putting some coils off another bike on it.
 

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Hi Dan, I've seen two types of CDI boxes. One was solid and filled with epoxy or some other type of material. The other is made from two pieces and screwed together. I've read of the two piece model having corrosion inside and can sometimes be cleaned.
As for my mistake about the main jet. The needle is going up and down inside the emulsion tube. The emulsion tube does have little holes along the length of the sides of the tube. The main jet secures the emulsion tube in place at the bottom of the venturi. Does the needle reach down all the way to the main jet? I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
ok, checked CDI box, is the pull apart type, so i did, no evidence or corrosion inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Reviving a dead thread..
So 6 / 7 months on she's sorted. Well it was sorted about 2 months ago but i thought i should finish this thread off incase it helps someone else.
basically i swapped out a coil from another bike and it ran perfectly all the way to redline. The original coil ran fine up untill about 3500 / 4000 before it started dropping out and eventually ran on 2 onwards.
But because the bike had a other issues going on it pretty much clouded the problem solving process. ie - fuel tap that didnt seal and float valves were a bit dicky...
Ive been ridding it for approx 2 months now and as it as a project i have advertised it.. but ill probably keep it as i dont mind ridding and looking at this one.
Thanks all for initial responses and help, somehow ill learn how to post a pic and put it up somewhere on the site.
 

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Hi Suksuzi,

Awesome, thanks for the update. I was about to reply cdi or coil at the end of page one, then saw there was another page:) Good you have it sorted I am sure the update will help someone.

V
 

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It's a relief to hear the outcome. Coils do suffer, especially on the fours. I know I sound wise after the fact - sorry about that. I haven't heard this dramatic effect before. My 1200 was missing noticeably at about 4000-4500rpm when hot but not cold and would rev higher. New coils sorted that. But then, electrical breakdown can happen to varying degrees. I also had other issues to solve so I get the problem of diagnosing multiple faults at once.

The bottom line I'd say for anyone doing up an original Hinckley bike is to expect to change the coils as a matter of course. My (original) coils were date stamped by the way so if they have been changed you'd be able to see.

Now enjoy making the old beast roar!
 

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Well it was great that the post was updated, thankyou for taking the time. I shall look mine over when I do a few other jobs I need to do, don't know if the coils are stock or replacements. My D12 is a very poor starter when cold (sometimes virtually impossible) but starts right up when warm.
 

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Hi D1200_Tel, So you have a really poor starter when it is cold. It could be a couple of things. It takes more starter motor power to turn over a cold engine. Ed Johnson (RIP) had the same issue many years ago. It turned out his starter cable needed to be replaced or maybe it was the starter relay. Another thing to check is to put a volt meter on the positive wire going to one of the coils. Get a volt reading with the ignition on, then another volt reading while the starter button is activated. Getting a reading below 11 volts is not good. Let us know what you get and we'll go from there.
 

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Cold starting trouble could be due to several things. On the electro front, another thing to consider is worn starter brushes. Both my T3s needed these doing.

The most obvious candidate though IMHO is fuelling, the carb starter circuit. Is it operating properly when you pull the choke cable? You should see the cold start/choke plungers being pulled out of the carb bodies. Next, Check the feed up from the float bowls to the plungers. They are next to the carb tops on the engine side of the carb bank, by the way (brass parts that sit in a rubber seal). You'll need to get the carbs off to do this. When they are off the bike, the easiest way to check is to unscrew and remove the plungers and than squirt carb cleaner through the passages from the float bowl side. The cleaner fluid should come right through if they are ok. If not, well carb cleaner is there to help free up gumming etc. So all good in any case.
 

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Many thanks for the suggestions guys, just for some background. When warm, or I should say after it has started at least once and run for a few minutes, it starts on the button everytime and the bike runs fine and smooth at all revs. There is no hesitation in acceleration or holding motorway speeds. It has 31,000 miles on it and is showing two valve clearance checks in the log book. One without a dealer stamp so a bit dubious but the last was back in 2002 at 27,000 miles by a reputable shop so I believe it was done (Bol D'or Motorcycles, Pulborough). The bike was barely used it seems as I picked it up with 29,000 on the clock. It was laid up for many years languishing in a garage. The seller cleaned out the fuel system/carbs and generally tidied up the bike to get it running but I have to say it is in good nick for its age. I have put 2,000 miles on it since and it has been utterly reliable, not missed a beat (unlike my 2018 Triumph Tiger).

As far as consumables go there is a clean air filter, new coolant, oil which has remained spotless over the last 2000 miles and a new filter, I realise these have no effect on the starting issue though. I just fitted a new battery as the old had seen better days and couldn't cope with the poor starting. I will be replacing the tyres soon enough as they are 11 years old and a bit bakelite in nature! Got a new rear brake disk and pads, both knackered and the sticking rear caliper was refurbished with a kit and front and rear fluids flushed, braking front and rear are superb now, the rear is so much better than on my 2018 Tiger, by a long way.

I will go down the list you guys have mentioned, many thanks for the suggestions. I did pick up a fuel tap refurb kit, choke cable, throttle cable and new fuel lines, not because I thought they were the problem of course, just because I didn't want some silly item leaving me by the side of the road some day, cheap insurance I say. It might take me a while to get round with this work but I will report back when I do, just picked up a Haynes manual.

Small story - I purchased this bike brand new in 1995, sold it less than two years later, moved to Ireland from England (reason for sale), it went through nine other owners and found its way to Northern Ireland, two hours up the road from me in the south. Saw an ad for it by pure chance and recopnised the registration, had to buy it back. I'm owner 1 and 11, happy days!
 

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Well, I have made a start on some of the items.
  • On start the volt readings drop to pretty much dead on 11v on the primary side of the coil, battery is very new - I feel OK with that I think.
  • Choke action is good across all four carbs.
  • I have the original PVL coils by the look of it but they are reading well off specification, see attachment. Even though they are off a good bit not convinced they are my real problem yet. Given I can get PVL copies for £29 each from Sprint Manufacturing it might be worthwhile doing.
  • The air filter assembly isn't sitting right on the carb body, slight possibility of a leak, I don't think so but it needs addressing anyway.
  • My airbox and filter is an absolute mess, this may be a significant issue. I had ignored opening it up as the previous owner had said it was done, not so, not in a long time.
  • The air intake silencers are gummed right up, good for the bin only, I imagine they have been very restrictive.
Sorting out these last two simple issues could be the answer to my problem. I might unlease another 10-20HP too! I can't tell you how crummy this air intake system is. I'll report back once I get the airbox replaced, I'll go for a genuine Triumph too. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 

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Have you done the air box modification? It make the remove and install so much easier. You take the back side of the air box and split it in half vertically. No more taking the carbs off to change out the air filter. I took the foam silencers out of the snorkels on my bikes. I can hear the noise the carbs make when opening up the throttle. That's interesting that you've got your old bike back. Sprint Manufacturing in the UK sells coils. They don't recommend PVL's for the 1200 engines.
 

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Hi Greg
Given all the other things I need to check and fitting new choke/throttle cables I may as well take out the carbs this time. The new air filter will last me many years so probably won't end up making the airbox mod but thanks for the suggestion. I would of done it if this bike was younger and was my primary bike but it is only likely to see 2000-3000 miles a year as I have the Tiger for longer rides. I have ordered a genuine Triumph airbox as I think this old beast deserves it. I used Sprints fuel tap refurb kit which in all honesty I probably didn't need to do in hindsight but at least going through the process confirmed the insides of the tank were good and the fuel tap gauze is clear. It did highlight the fact that the fuel tap was stuck in the on position with a broken knob so all these times I thought I was priming it I wasn't, a new knob from sprint I think. Sprint have a PVL for £49.95 or a PVL copy for £29.95. I'll get on to them and see if they recommend one over the other and why.
 

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Choke and throttle cable changed, preventative maintenence more than anything else, new fuel lines fitted, airbox intake silencer filters replaced (I know I could of left them out but what the hell), coils replaced, Sprint's PVL copies. Pulled out the carbs and cleaned the little gauze filters inside the fuel line t-pieces.

Airbox to carb rubbers were taken off, they were in a sorry state, a blind man must of put them on the airbox housing, all four were mishapen and badley fitted which explains the poor fit to the carb body on the one side.They were not very supple either so happy to replace. Just waiting for new carb rubbers now. I'm enjoying the tinkering I have to say, it's been a while.
 

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Had some time to spare today and decided I should at least measure the valve clearances while I have the tank off. Removed the fairing lowers and took the valve cover off. My spark plug tool was too wide so I'll have to source another. Managed to measure two inlet clearances, both out of spec, looking like 0.08mm, too tight.

Once I have the crank cover off and spark plugs out I can turn it over easier and I'll do a measure across all. I have read up on the forum of the different the adjustment processes 1) using the Triumph tool, 2) cam out and 3) loosened cam and would prefer to go with the tool if I can. I'll see how many I have to do before I decide.
719851
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The plug spanner from the tool kit is really useful, if you have one of those. The 12mm Allen key for the chain tensioner fits inside the top to work as a handle for the plug spanner. You might be alright with a 3/8 drive socket because they are thinner walled than 1/2" drive.

I used to remove the cams to change shims but bought the triumph tool in the end because it makes sense if there are only a couple to do. Both ways are fiddly but fine if you take your time.

Thanks for posting the pics. Brilliant.
 

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The plug spanner from the tool kit is really useful, if you have one of those. The 12mm Allen key for the chain tensioner fits inside the top to work as a handle for the plug spanner. You might be alright with a 3/8 drive socket because they are thinner walled than 1/2" drive.

I used to remove the cams to change shims but bought the triumph tool in the end because it makes sense if there are only a couple to do. Both ways are fiddly but fine if you take your time.

Thanks for posting the pics. Brilliant.
Thanks LeT, good to know you use the tool, I'll probably go that way, I'm not under any time constraint. Unfortunately I don't have the original toolkit but do have a 3/8" drive 18mm deep socket (for 12mm plug) but it is just a smidge too tight to fit.
 

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Airbox replaced, carbs back on with new rubbers either side, the whole setup looks proper and aligned. I've probably wasted €20 is diesel driving around tool shops and motor factors trying to find a suitable spark plug set with no luck so I gave up and ordered the original ones, I should of done that in the first place! Once I have those i can do the valve clearance measurements. Complete cam cover seal set ordered, €59, a little pricy at that but the existing ones were quite hard and would of required lots of sealant which I want to avoid. The inlet valve I measured was incorrect, it is in spec, I am hoping I am going to be very lucky with the valve clearances, finger scrossed.
720066
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just had a look at mine, exhaust were all good but inlet were almost all too tight. I ordered a proxxon 18mm 3/8 spark plug key which work well. need to check if I can use it with the valve cover on. that middle sparkplug is a pain.
 
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