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I'm looking at getting a new exhaust, the TORS i have now are on their last legs i think plus will look kind of weird once i ditch the rear fender.

I know i will have to get thruxton length shocks to fit the D&D full race system (the under body ones) I had a few other questions on them

1)Are their any issues with oil changes; filter access, oil draining on the
pipes

2) Do these still work with the kickstand?
 

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#1 Yes I think you have to pull the right side to change oil
#2 the kick stand sjould still work
They are kinda low to the ground for street pipes and very load ,maybe to load for the street.You might be better off with the D&D 2INTO1 they make good power are not as load and are not as low to the ground,There still full race pipes though you have to pull the pipe to change oil but thats only a 5 min job.
 

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Don't buy them....you will loose mid range power because they have no cross over pipe and also sound very raspy. You will gain more horsepower switching to British Customs Predator Exhaust.
 

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Don't buy them....you will loose mid range power because they have no cross over pipe and also sound very raspy. You will gain more horsepower switching to British Customs Predator Exhaust.
They make more hp then about any pipe you can put on these bikes,they dont sound raspy like regular D&D PIPES they have no baffle they are empty rev. cone megaphones on the 2into2 full race pipes ,there just plan nasty load.
 

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They make more hp then about any pipe you can put on these bikes,they dont sound raspy like regular D&D PIPES they have no baffle they are empty rev. cone megaphones on the 2into2 full race pipes ,there just plan nasty load.
DD full race has no cross over pipe....you will loose mid range but gain top end power. And yes they are way too loud. I still suggest preds over DD
 

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I like the look of my preds - never liked the look of those D and Ds, but it all depends what you are after I guess.
 

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The cross over dont mean as much as you would think.I ran preds with some custom headers on a stock motor and it didnt hurt mid range one bit.When I WENT TO THE 989 stroker motor that set up gave me 70ft/lbs in the mid range but was dead on top.The 2into1 D&D I have on there nowdid take a few ft/lbs off the bottom but it gained 10hp on top.When you get these motors making good power mid range dont mater you have ft/lbs to spare.I have no ties with any of the venders I just go by what I have found to be true.Preds are good pipes and some of the best looking but there not the hp king anymore.
 

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The cross over dont mean as much as you would think.I ran preds with some custom headers on a stock motor and it didnt hurt mid range one bit.When I WENT TO THE 989 stroker motor that set up gave me 70ft/lbs in the mid range but was dead on top.The 2into1 D&D I have on there nowdid take a few ft/lbs off the bottom but it gained 10hp on top.When you get these motors making good power mid range dont mater you have ft/lbs to spare.I have no ties with any of the venders I just go by what I have found to be true.Preds are good pipes and some of the best looking but there not the hp king anymore.
For those stock motors they work excellent. Now on the other hand your 989 motor is a different story and the DD would be the ideal choice for exhaust.
 

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they seam to do the same on stock motors to as some on here have seen.they dont sound or look as good as preds though.but they are race pipes
 

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You can easily change the oil by loosening the bolts at the cylinder mount and removing the rear mounting bolt - the pipes then swing out of the way for oil changing/filter replacement - I do this on a pit bull stand. I have run the full race and the street as well as preds and thrux pipes and the D&D 2 into 1 Mike is running. The full race are extremely loud and much larger in diameter than the street muffler equiped version. I would NOT recommend them on a street bike. This bike made 103 RWHP with the full race and 2 into 1, It made 97 RWHP with the preds and thrux pipes, and dropped to 85 RWHP with the D&D street mufflers on the dual pipes. I had problems with clearance with the full race pipes and have not encountered problems with the street version yet - even with bonnie length shocks. My 2 cents.

Race


Street
 

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John,I`m thinking about making a new exhaust.Can you give me a guesstimate on the street cans as to overall lengths of the two tapered portions,max diameter and outlet opening?This outfit is going to get a tryout for this project.
http://www.coneeng.com/conical_products.html
Hey Steve - 13" and 1 1/2" for the tapered sections, 3 1/4" diameter and 2" outlet.
 

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This bike made 103 RWHP with the full race and 2 into 1 said:
The street system made 18 less & 12 hp than the other two D&D Systems:( looks like I will be selling my street system after I build a motor, how was the sound of the 2 into 1 compared to the street TT, I love the way the TT sounds and looks, Maybe Ill try the ZARD 2 into 1 low system,
 

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The 2into1 is not to load its got a kinda a race bike sound that i like alot more after rideing it awhile I would go with the D&D 2into1 if you want power on a big motor the ZARD AND ARROW pipes I dont think make the hp the d&d do.They are way more money to.The way the pipes come out of the head and tube size is what makes the d&d work so good
 

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The street system made 18 less & 12 hp than the other two D&D Systems:( looks like I will be selling my street system after I build a motor, how was the sound of the 2 into 1 compared to the street TT, I love the way the TT sounds and looks, Maybe Ill try the ZARD 2 into 1 low system,[/quote]


This may not be the case - depends on your motor and many factors. Having tried fully 7 different exhaust systems on this bike including 2 entirely 1 off custom made units - all I can say is the motors are VERY exhaust sensitive. D&D street mufflers we don't believe are so much the problem as the large diameter pipes combined with them. D&D was surprised as much or more so than us with the results. They were willing to work with us, but I've a stainless set of Duc Super Trapps that I may try with the D&D headpipes. The head in this motor has VERY high port velocity and flow numbers. The cam is a total one off custom grind with more lift and duration than the 813 cams. We are also reving to 9500 RPM - so many variables to consider.
 

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as john said these motors are ver pipe sensitive.With any motor every part has to match up good to make hp.A stock motor needs x amount of exh flow.The more you build the motor the more flow you need .There other thing you need to look at is the % of hp you gain or loose is alot more hp on a 100hp motor compared to a 50 hp motor.If a 100hp motor looses 10% it looses 10 hp where a 50 hp motor that looses 10% would loose 5hp.
I allso think the more you build these motor the picker they get about little things.Pipe changes, jets,air filters and timing can mean big gains in hp.
You can move power around with pipes on these bikes.The truth is and i think john will agree when you get these motors making good hp the torque dont mater as much as it does on a stock bike they have about more then you want or need lol.The other thing you dont think much about low end torque because once you crack the throttle you arent in the low rpms long enough to know its there lol.I want to do a video of what the tach looks like on one of the high hp motors when you wack it at like 2500 rpm .I dont think alot of people would beleave it.
 

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I would believe it - but man I would love to see it.

Last year I almost bought a second motor just to play with these upgrades (mind you if you're going to go for it you'd better be prepared to be more serious than "play") but funds did not present themselves. maybe one day.
 
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