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Discussion Starter #1
Iv`e been reading about cutting the rev limiter wire,has anyone done this.Is it that straightforward or do you have to do anything else?Regards Pete
 

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Are you suggesting I replace my igniter with a 750 jobby? Where am I getting confused?it says in the Downloads section,Tech aids &info,The Hinckley FAQ,that it works.Maybe i misread it,probably down to loss of BV`s

[ This message was edited by: Pipes on 2004-04-15 06:48 ]
 
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The 1996 Super 3 that I have does not have the same loop-back wire as on the earlier 900's, the blue wire is a straight connection linked in the tach circuit.. I talked to Hinckleys guy Matt at South Bay and he advised against it. My concern is that my bike lives it's entire life at, or near the rev-limiter. If the engine somehow does not have a rev limiter( like 80's race bikes) you can float a valve and destroy an engine. I have seen it, it is very very bad. You have to replace the head, and if you can save the cylinders, you have to worry about what kind of load the crank experienced when it was breaking the valves off and crunching them up. Older bikes had heavier cranks and I have seen a bent crank on a Honda CB900F. My balls are not that big to risk my motor, so I took Matt's recommendation and dropped the $500+ on the 750 limiter and it worked perfectly- I JUST PLUGGED IT IN! It took me more time to take the seat off. If it works and the bike somehow magically moves the rev-limiter back 2000 rpm, let me know, I need a scientific explanation before I would consider it.
A funny side note, when I worked for Honda in the early 90's I had been a CBR 600 racer, there was a guy selling a little 3x5 template that you taped to the CDI on a Hurricane and then drilled holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit where the holes on the template were. If you hit it just right you eliminated the rev limiter completely. Most idiots destroyed their CDI's and I never saw anyone win a race with one that was drilled. We actually had someone try to submit a warranty claim on one, after that if there were any CDI warranty's we looked at them first to see if they had holes in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I spoke to a guy at a breakers up north,i asked for a 750 igniter and he said he had one for £170+tax,he also asked if i had a 900,when i said yes he advised me not to do it as he`d seen the problems the guys in the S Triple Challenge had with blown motors.Theres honesty for you,doing himself out of a sale.
I would like to think that if i did change it I`d only let myself rev to 11.5k occasionally,but I think it`d be like a crackhead having endless supplies of the stuff and only stop when its gone,ie dead motor :( .I know me u c
Iv`e ordered a 16 tooth sprocket instead for added fun,
any thoughts?
 

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re 16 tooth primary drive sprocket -Do'nt - go with a bigger rear sprocket probably have to get a longer chain but you may end up screwing up your cases if not ,by using a small primary sprocket. :hammer: Share and Enjoy!
 

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A smaller pivot point with a high torque engine is going to wear your chain much quicker, it would be prudent to go with a larger rear sprocket. I have had two chains go on me !st time I got lucky the 2nd time ended up smashing the oil filler case and dumping oil , stranding me . Both were with stock gearing the latter with a clip type chain after 1200 miles on it and happened on a down shift under power going into corner. Conversations with my mechanic friends say it would be fine mod for a 600 with low torque but a torque based bike it would be begging disaster. Cycle riders of O-town had a Daytona way back that had a chain failure that smashed the gearbox side - alot of welding. Plus it's a lot easier to change the rear sprocket - as long as your chain is long enough!
On another point I hear the s3 challenge guys altered the scavenging mesh in the sump to aid with the raised rev limit - even though the rev limit was deemed illegal! Any comments? :razz:
 

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I actually put a bigger countersprocket on my bike and it is one of those torque-less wimpey 600s! :-D It came stock with a 14 tooth sprocket, and it has a 15 tooth on it now. The rear sprocket is a WHOLE lot bigger, too, but that is a different story!

The logic is this- if you use too small a countersprocket, you bend the chain more than it wants to bend. When you do that, you turn power into heat instead of forward motion. Not only that, but you wear out the chain a lot faster. It seems to work pretty well, since the chain has only needed a couple of adjustments in 10K miles. And I am pretty neglegent when it comes to chain maintenance.

So, another two cents worth- and overpriced at that! :)
 
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