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Discussion Starter #1
It takes a good 5 miles to get past the hesitation in cool, let alone cold, weather on our '03 Thunderbird.
Is there a cure short of risking fouling the plugs with the choke all that time?
 

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Just checked the current Connecticut weather and it's -6c !


I would say you were lucky to start the bike that cold !

.....but then I'm only guessing :D Don't experience such low temperatures here in the North Island of NZ.

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Ride on ! :)
 

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Iridium plugs?

Rode here in SE PA on New Year's Day - temp was about 34 F when I fired the bike up. Started immediately, with a little choke (about 2 minutes) while I pulled on helmet, gloves, and checked over the bike. This has been my experience with Iridium plugs, although I realize that 34 isn't extremely cold.
 

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Nature of the beast

They're cold-blooded by nature. Installing a K&N air filter makes them even more so. I leave the choke on a little for the first couple miles and then take it off once the engine is warm. Never fouled a plug...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm talking when it's in the mid 50s and low 60s.
It's a good 10 to 15 minutes before it's responsive and has been like that since new.

So which jets are to fiddle with?
 

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I was forunate enough to snag a cheap ($50) jet kit on e-bay. It cured the cold, lean, settings easily. Unfortunately, the most important part (the needles, in this case) are not available individually.
 

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Definitely not my experience that my 99 Legend (same Keihin carbs) is coldblooded (or my previous Tbird). Choke is off within 400m summer (~20c if we're lucky:D) or winter (~4c). Engine fully warm in ~2 miles, riding slow (max 50mph) until then. Have K&N filter & Thunderbike 3-1 pipe mods.

My best guess why this machine won't play is the pilot screw setting, known to be very lean as stock. I'm using stock jets but screws are 2.5 turns out. But maybe check all the clamps etc. to be sure an air leak isn't leaning things out.
 

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Are you running the plugs for cool weather? Original plugs were dpr9 ea 9 or somthing like it .They then changed em to a warmer running plug dpr8 ea9.I asked a ngk rep at the uk bike show why? He explaind that the bird came down between two plug parameters, go figure!
 

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cold blooded

I have a 95 T-Bird with dpr8ea9 for winter and dpr9ea9 for summer.
-6 degrees here this morning bike up to temp within 2 miles always ride with choke on for first 1 or 2 miles never heard of fouling plugs.

:cool: Tiz
 

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Thermostat maybe?

Also, when is the last time the cooling system was flushed and cleaned?
Before you pull the carbs adn start rejetting, I suggest you simply resynch your carbs. Ihave had TBS's for the last nine years and everytime I htink I have an issue it turns out to be carbs out of synch. I still run factory jetting in my bike with a K&N filter element and Triumph "off-road" silencers. It runs great and gets 40-ish mpg.
 

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I have a 06 Scrambler. Even when I picked it up at the Dealer I though it was cold natured by they way we choked it and made two attempts to get it started. With the choke out it began to warm up and soon it was ready to roll. I thought this was normal. So I would genn, genn on it till it started. I rejetted and put TORs on it after 500 miles and now have over 4200 and all through this time it started the same. Last summer I cleaned the carbs and now she starts running with very little effort on the starter. The way it starts now and the amount of choke used is about 1/3 of what it took before the cleaning of the carbs. I think the carbs were dirty from the factory. But it always ran smooth after being warmed up so I never questioned the clod start.

odie
 

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I have a 06 Scrambler. Even when I picked it up at the Dealer I though it was cold natured by they way we choked it and made two attempts to get it started. With the choke out it began to warm up and soon it was ready to roll. I thought this was normal. So I would genn, genn on it till it started. I rejetted and put TORs on it after 500 miles and now have over 4200 and all through this time it started the same. Last summer I cleaned the carbs and now she starts running with very little effort on the starter. The way it starts now and the amount of choke used is about 1/3 of what it took before the cleaning of the carbs. I think the carbs were dirty from the factory. But it always ran smooth after being warmed up so I never questioned the clod start.

odie
The T300 motors have wet liners in them, and no AI.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It has done it from new, and runs fine once it get really warmed up.
So dirty carbs or thermostat aren't really suspect as it's always been this way.

We have no idle mixture adjustment here in the USA, so that is not a solution.
The plugs are whatever they sent as standard here. I've never noticed if there are seasonal recommendations, but somehow I doubt that the factory would suggest seasonal changes.
 

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It has done it from new, and runs fine once it get really warmed up.
So dirty carbs or thermostat aren't really suspect as it's always been this way.

We have no idle mixture adjustment here in the USA, so that is not a solution.
The plugs are whatever they sent as standard here. I've never noticed if there are seasonal recommendations, but somehow I doubt that the factory would suggest seasonal changes.
Pull your thermostat and check it in a pot of boiling water. If you pull it and it is open already, I'd say it is no good.

Really though, I'd give it a good tune up before I changed jetting etc. I highly doubt you have a jet issue.
 

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"We have no idle mixture adjustment here in the USA, so that is not a solution."

Yes we do, the lead plugs have to be removed to access the screws and they are set lean from the factory.

EPA ya gotta love`em!
 

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It has done it from new, and runs fine once it get really warmed up.
So dirty carbs or thermostat aren't really suspect as it's always been this way.

...........

I would go with the guys that suggest thermostat. If the thermostat has been stuck on open since new or it opens too quickly, you have all the symptoms of bad cold running. The thermostat is supposed to be shut when cold to heat the coolant around the engine quickly and opens when the engine warms up to allow the radiator coolant to circulate. If it is stuck on open you are trying to heat the engine and the radiator coolant will prevent it reaching normal operating temperature. It will take a few miles of running to achieve this.


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Discussion Starter #19
I would go with the guys that suggest thermostat. If the thermostat has been stuck on open since new or it opens too quickly, you have all the symptoms of bad cold running. The thermostat is supposed to be shut when cold to heat the coolant around the engine quickly and opens when the engine warms up to allow the radiator coolant to circulate. If it is stuck on open you are trying to heat the engine and the radiator coolant will prevent it reaching normal operating temperature. It will take a few miles of running to achieve this.


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Ride on ! :)

I'll take a look. It's due for a coolant change anyways.
 
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